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Instead of posters arguing about who makes the best converter, I will recommend spending extra and get a quality unit.
You can buy them for a couple hundred. Or you can spend $400+ for a unit a lot more durable.
The converters stall speed should work together with your cam specs and rear axle ratio.
I also would recommend a small trans cooler mounted out front. The extra cooling capacity (besides the radiator) will add longevity to the trans.
Good post (above)....ditto on running a cooler.
I bypass the one in the radiator and just run the external that way if the converter starts slipping that heat doesnt transfer to the coolant.
Splitting hairs but did it both ways and it was obviously cooler (trans and engine) just running the external. Get a good one!
There are different sized (diameter) converters also. Std, they can go down to 8-9 inches for the serious guys
Tell us something about your engine, trans, rear axle ratio?
vigilante 9.5. inch. Very efficient I drove around for 8 years with a 3800 stall behind my 427 SBC. They don't slip cruising down the freeway at 70 mph only when you WOT. They you are instantly in the power range. I had a cheap sub $500 saturday night special 3000 stall and driving around it was always at 3000 rpm slipping unless I went faster.
Good info so far, I appreciate it all.
Engines a 400hp 355, TH400, 3.08 gears.
I want a high stall converter because my 60ft is trash at the track. I can only get the revs up to 1500 before it wants to push through the brakes, and my cam doesn’t really start pulling til 3000. Results are terrible launches.
I was looking at summit brand, but there are so many brands out there.
it would see short weekend drives, and the 1/4 mile every couple months.
I’ve started to look into the recommendations.
is there a big difference between furnace brazed and welded?
And on the trans cooler note, is it preferred to run the extra cooler in parallel with the radiator, or series?
Randall, your 3.08 highway gears is killing your launch. But anyway.
On the cooler hook-up:
Here is right from the horses mouth, a tech guy on the phone with me at B&M transmission supply:
Where do you live he asked?
Southern states can by-pass the Rad.
Northern areas should not.
He went on to say that cold ATF can do almost as much wear-n-tear as too hot of ATF. So, the ATF should be slightly warmed first, then on to the cooler.
So, from the tranny, to the Rad, to the cooler, return to the tranny (in cooler climates)
What he said makes sense. Even todays modern 2023 vehicles will not go into O.D. full lock-up until the ATF reaches a certain temp.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 17, 2022 at 07:21 AM.
Furnace brazed is superior to welded. Yes in series with radiator, at least that’s how I have mine. Water can dissipate a whole lot more heat than air when push comes to shove.
It sounds like you want a good 3500 - 4000 stall with that set up if your intent is to drag race much.
keep in mind a cheap converter will fail catastrophically when pushed and will take the transmission with it when it does.
pay the money get a good one, someone that offers at least one adjustment to the stall if you want it.
what’s some of the engine specs? Specifically the cam specs.
I agree the 3.08 sucks. But diffs are expensive lol I’m thinking the higher stall will get me through a few years and Ill make some bigger changes later.
I live in Georgia, so it sounds like I can skip the radiator.
the cam is an edelbrock torker plus.
292/300(232/234 at .5)
lift is .49/.49 LSA 108
estreet heads, 64cc, flat top pistons so 10:1 cr,
125 shot NOS.
I get through the traps around 110mph but my time is nowhere close to what it should be.
i still drive on the street and to work occasionally, so I’d rather not get an extremely high stall, that’s why I was thinking 2800-3200 range.
Most of the converters I’ve looked at today seem to be around 9.6-10 inch diameter
If you decide to purchase a converter definitely get a converter from a reputable builder. all i can offer is this: last year i got a 3500 stall to match the cam in my 496. My mechanic recommended a place called Competiton Transmissions in Tonawanda NY. under normal driving there is no noticable slipping. when i stomp on it it flashes right where it is supposed to. it was worth every penny i paid for it.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by randallsteel
Good info so far, I appreciate it all.
Engines a 400hp 355, TH400, 3.08 gears. I want a high stall converter because my 60ft is trash at the track. I can only get the revs up to 1500 before it wants to push through the brakes, and my cam doesn’t really start pulling til 3000. Results are terrible launches.
I was looking at summit brand, but there are so many brands out there.
it would see short weekend drives, and the 1/4 mile every couple months.
I honestly think you should focus on a new gear first. That 3.08 is NOT doing your 400hp motor any good. Move up to a 3.45 or 3.73 and it will be like night and day on your 60" as long as you can hook the launch. New tires may be in your future as well. If you still don't like your 60' depending on what gear you went with, then a new TC will be the way to go. I have a 9.5" 3200 Yank and like it and drives like a stock TC until you put your foot into it. I also have a 9.5" 3600 Yank to go into it, but I'm lazy and the heat in AZ is a major factor here. Also Circle D is another good TC, Vigilante like mentioned is another good TC, but I have no actually experience with that one. I have also had a TCI 2400 which I thought was junk IMO. Any of the good quality TCs will cost you some cash for sure, but it's better to spend wisely and only once on the TC. GL on your choices.
Your cam choice has very little low end TQ. I raced my 79 with 3.55 rear end for many years with 9x28 goodyear slicks. slicks made the quickest 60 foot, but they are very hard on shift kitted TH350's.
When do you hit the N2O?
I shattered the TC stator once. Of course no warranty. So that's when I decided to get something with a warranty and never fail. I also decided to install a line lock and tranny brake. PG/350/400 – Precision Industries (converter.com)
I agree the 3.08 sucks. But diffs are expensive lol I’m thinking the higher stall will get me through a few years and Ill make some bigger changes later.
I live in Georgia, so it sounds like I can skip the radiator.
the cam is an edelbrock torker plus.
292/300(232/234 at .5)
lift is .49/.49 LSA 108
estreet heads, 64cc, flat top pistons so 10:1 cr,
125 shot NOS.
I get through the traps around 110mph but my time is nowhere close to what it should be.
i still drive on the street and to work occasionally, so I’d rather not get an extremely high stall, that’s why I was thinking 2800-3200 range.
Most of the converters I’ve looked at today seem to be around 9.6-10 inch diameter
As gkull stated your cam has squat for low end torque and you’re running a 108 LSA as well.
It probably makes peak torque north of 4300-4500 rpm.
A quality high stall torque converter will not negatively impact your street driving. I’d still go 3500- 4000. With a 3.08 that’s probably still low for drag racing. It may be a good balance for combined driving though.
I run a 3000 stall converter and always sreeet drive it. Does very well with the 3.55 rear diff and th350.
Ran a cam very similar to yours (350) with a 2800 stall...it was ok but a 3000 min woulda been better
For about a yr I still had a 3.08...that cam needed a 4.11 to went there. Engine finally behaved the way it was supposed to.
It would drive around fine with the tall gear but started slipping a lot with rpm in the higher gears. Created plenty of heat
Did use a nice cooler in front of the radiator. (by pass the radiator cooler). 3500 woulda been perfect but couldnt afford a quality one like I wanted at that time
Converted to manual anyways.
With the right gear your car will pull the way it was designed to youd be surprised. Too many undergear their cars and are disappointed in the way they pull (or dont)
I would call Frank Lupo's Dynamic Converter and get a 3000 to 3500 stall converter and don't skimp on price like already mention a quality converter will drive normal until you stomp it then it hits the stall speed . Yes furnace brazed and anti balloon plates are recommended . Proper stall speed will "mask" the 3.08 gear because the converter gets the engine on the happy spot before power is transmitted, where the low stall speed stock converter , big camshaft along with a 3.08 takes forever to get to the power band but that is not a problem with a proper torque converter , sure a gear change when you want to get every ounce of et out of it but the right stall speed converter gets back 90 percent of it without the gear change , do the converter first then evaluate the gear
dynamicconverter.com
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Here's what the OP stated above...
Engines a 400hp 355, TH400, 3.08 gears.
I want a high stall converter because my 60ft is trash at the track.
Your motor is 400hp, so since you didn't say RWHP, I assuming you meant at the motor with a 3.08 gear and stock TC, right? The average weight of C3s from 73-77 comes out to roughly 3,483 lbs which is pretty fat and also assume your C3 is in that range. The 76 and 77 were 3,541 lbs which IMO is obese.
It appears that you are concerned about your 60' and that 3.08 gear is NOT doing you any favors in a fat car. Replace the gear first which is what is going to "launch" a heavy car, and not the higher TC with a 3.08 gear with the performance you are looking for. If you said that my motor was 650hp with a 3.08 then that is a different story all together. GL with whichever way you decide and hope you land a 1.7, 60'.