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I think I have worked out the answer but would like to confirm as not re-fitted distributor before, there is lots of helpful info online but not for this question: standard GM points distributor 454 engine 1970 corvette
Having found TDC and then lined up the rotor to point to the compressed valve on No.1 cylinder, once you have "found the right spot" you engage the distributor gear with the engine gear then very slowly turn the engine so that the distributor drops into place, and the rotor will have now have moved clockwise to a new positon. When you now fit the distributor cap is the HT lead connector on the distrributor cap going to be the one where the rotor now points (i.e its new place)?
KInd regards
Paul
Last edited by PBCloud; Oct 28, 2022 at 03:07 PM.
Reason: added year of car
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Not sure what you're doing, but that sounds pretty messed up: You never install the distributor with any valve compressed on #1 cylinder at TDC - that would be the exhaust stroke. E-mail me for my "How to Install Your Distributor" tech paper for the correct way to install a distributor - let me know if you need instructions for points distributor or HEI.
Lars V8FastCars@msn.com
I've installed a fair few distributors over the years. Never, not once did I turn the engine. Rotor needs to end up pointing to the number one plug wire terminal of the distributor cap.
Engine needs to be on top dead center of number one cylinder on it's compression stroke. Both valves will be closed. (both rocker arms all the way up).
Sometimes you may need a long flat blade screwdriver to turn/line up the oil pump. But you never turn the engine once you have the number one cylinder on TDC, compression stroke.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Not only do you never need to turn the engine, you don't even need to turn the oil pump with the screwdriver if you use the method outlined in my paper... And you sure as heck never install the distributor with #1 cylinder having an open/compressed valve.
Lars
Geez, Lars is such a nice guy he already gave you his email a couple posts up.
Send him a email. He will then email you his instruction papers. He has nothing to gain other than knowing he is helping another car enthusiast.
Sorry Lars missed the request for email address and will send it!
I have to agree with the comments from the other members and relally appreciate and value your patience and help over the last 2 years whilst I completed a full refurb under the hood and a partial engine rebuild. Now at the end stage, just got to start the engine and then book a full body respray to be ready for next spring.
I would just like to thank Lars for his excellant paper; I can see the various articles and u tube videos I found had left me very confused; but having read the guide he sent to me now have a full understanding of exactly what to do, to not only install the distributor correcly but to also get it performing 100%.
I can see the various articles and u tube videos I found had left me very confused;
Very understandable. Even when folks know what they're doing (and not all do), attempting to follow multiple sources can become confusing due to differing processes, vocabulary, and desired outcomes of the authors. Lars is one of the handful of experienced voices on tuning (Duke is another) that you can count on. He's been supporting owners for decades and has extensive papers on all sorts of things.
Follow his paper from start to finish; ask questions when you need to and you'll have an excellently running engine - plus you'll have learned a great deal.
Just to finish this thread; this was the first time I had set up timing and a distributor; looking at u tube videos and searching the Internet left me very, confused due to contrary guidance and in particular over simplefication leaving out important points that are fundemental to get the best result. Lars paper addressed this and I followed it to the letter, at first read it all seemed a little more duanting than I had anticipated, but in practice its not. Changing the advance weight springs on the distribtor is easy and takes seconds (mine used a gold and a standard one to get the desired effect), and having found excess end float on the distributor shaft of 25 thou had to correct using shims, which I found again was much easier than I thought it might be. The distributor comes apart remarkably easy with the only daunting task to tap out the pin at the base of the shaft, I used some easing oil first on this in case there was any corrosion then obtained a small roll punch set with round steel ends (very low cost) so I could find one with the best fit. Then resting the distributor body on the bench and supporting the shaft end with a block of shaped wood was able to gently tap it out; a suprisingly easy job considering it has been in there 50 years. Rebuiiding the distributor I found was easy, cleaned everything up, and added new points, rotor and condensor. The end result is the engine started straight away after being laid up for three years so I was then able to fine tune it with a timing light again following Lars paper to the letter.
My car now idles far better than it ever has (it was always a litlle rough before) and just sounds better, it will soon be out for its first test run and I have the knowledge that all is well with the distributor and timing and satifyingly learnt a lot.along the way.