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I am a new corvette owner and new to this forum and hope to learn some things.
Just purchased a 1980 corvette that is all original. Having issues with the courtesy fuse that keeps blowing when I install the 20 amp fuse.
I think I narrowed it down to the power door locks. Door locks when powered automatically lock every couple of seconds all by itself?
With no power I can manually lock and unlock both doors from locking mechanism on arm rest as well as from the key. Athough the drivers
side is hard to lock and unlock (which could be my issue with it drawing extra current when powered causing fuse to blow).
I'm stumped as to why the power locks are locking automatically all by itself? Any suggestions? Could I have an issue with Alarm circuit?
I installed a 30 amp fuse in place of the 20 and it stays up. The door locks try locking every few seconds by themselves? When I hold one of the door lock switches to the unlock position, they do not try to unlock but the locking by themselves stops.
It seems like maybe one of the switches could be stuck in the lock position? Not sure what causes the actuators to lock then a few seconds later try locking again....very strange? Got lucky with the 30 amp fuse not blowing for troubleshooting but do not plan on keeping it in for any extended time.
I installed a 30 amp fuse in place of the 20 and it stays up. The door locks try locking every few seconds by themselves? When I hold one of the door lock switches to the unlock position, they do not try to unlock but the locking by themselves stops.
It seems like maybe one of the switches could be stuck in the lock position? Not sure what causes the actuators to lock then a few seconds later try locking again....very strange? Got lucky with the 30 amp fuse not blowing for troubleshooting but do not plan on keeping it in for any extended time.
My guess is either you have a loose ground or your aftermarket alarm is on the brink. I have a 1980 Vette and my alarm doesn't automatically lock the doors. In fact I took relay to factory alarm off and installed a Viper Alarm system that has a pager system. It states that it will notify you up to a 1 mile away but I am lucky if it gets me 1/2 a mile.
Thank you....It is all original so no aftermarket stuff on this car. I would think that a loose ground would prevent the actuators from working. Instead they try locking all the time? Really strange. Wonder if anyone can test holding one of the power lock switches in the lock position to see what happens? Does it lock then try locking again as long as the switch is held? I'm will eventually take apart the door to see what's up but was hoping that it was something easy to fix. Any good videos on taking the door panel off of a 1980?
Thank you....It is all original so no aftermarket stuff on this car. I would think that a loose ground would prevent the actuators from working. Instead they try locking all the time? Really strange. Wonder if anyone can test holding one of the power lock switches in the lock position to see what happens? Does it lock then try locking again as long as the switch is held? I'm will eventually take apart the door to see what's up but was hoping that it was something easy to fix. Any good videos on taking the door panel off of a 1980?
I am not a 100% on this but I don't think your car has that automatic feature of the doors locking. I have had 2 c3s a 1982 and a 1980, neither has had this setup. Granted my cars could have been the exception to the rule. As far as taking door card off. See picture
So I think that what I'm seeing is a result of one of the switches stuck in the lock position? If I can get someone to try holding the power lock switch in the lock position to see what happens. I think you are correct that power to the actuator for any length of time will trip breaker then reset by itself then try locking again because the switch is made to lock. Sound right?
1980 has the POS passenger side vanity mirror. Does yours still work? If it has been disabled in some way, the wires could be grounding out. You would probably need to pull the glove box insert out to get to the harness plug. Disconnect it there if yours is not functional.
I think if it were a short to ground then any fuse would blow? I'm able to use a 30 amp fuse in place of the 20 and everything else seems to work (did not check vanity mirror). Because the driver side door actuator takes a little more force is the reason I believe the 20 amp fuse blows.
The plugs for the lock switches degrade and the wiring starts shorting across terminals. May be the issue your having. The repair plugs and switches are common items on every Corvette parts site.
Since no one has commented on replacing the 20 Amp fuse with a 30 Amp Fuse, be careful as the wiring could become melted or Worse. Blowing the 20 Amp fuse is being caused by some problem or problems, adding a higher capacity fuse is Never A Smart Move. If you need help troubleshooting the power windows, please don’t hesitate to ask the experts on the forum. Replacing old wire cables is a pain and the new harness cost are not cheap. My uneducated guess could be one of the power window switches could be stuck on, I don’t think it’s very hard to just unplug them and see what happens (no clicking or blown 20 Amp Fuse). If the fuse continues to blow, then move on to check for shorted wires, maybe inside the rubber boot located between the door hinges. Lastly unplug one of the p w motors from the harness to see if it’s is causing the problem, then do the other motor. I have had p w motors go bad, but never caused a fuse to blow. Good Luck, let us know how you are progressing.
I ended up finding the issue which was both the power lock switch and shorted connector to that switch (drivers side). Thank you all for the feedback!!