When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Assembling L-36 and while attaching a connecting rod cap, I accidentally nicked the bearing and cap itself. I have replaced the bearing but I'd like to know if there is an issue with using the rod cap. The nick (small gouge) was at the top edge, about 1/4" in from the side. I could feel it so I gently filed the edge until I couldn't feel it anymore. This created a tiny bevel which I think is visible in the attached pic. Does anyone think this will pose a problem with either letting oil in behind the bearing or exposing it to possible spinning? About 1/4" down from the inside top edge you can see where the small gouge was, along with a slight bevel created by the file. It feels smooth and is not detectible with a fingernail.
Honestly don't think you will have any problems there. You could put the rod end and cap together and torque to spec and check for "out of round" in four locations equally spaced apart using a T or snap gauge and a 1-2" micrometer. Good Luck!
Thanks 1 Hotrodz for your input. I imagine I could use my dial bore gauge to check for roundness as well. I was more concerned with the nick causing a problem with the bearing staying put or oil getting behind the shell because of the bevel and slight nick (which is below surface now).
Thanks 1 Hotrodz for your input. I imagine I could use my dial bore gauge to check for roundness as well. I was more concerned with the nick causing a problem with the bearing staying put or oil getting behind the shell because of the bevel and slight nick (which is below surface now).
You are welcome! Does your dial bore gauge go down that small, mine does not? If it does then use that to check for out of round. And the nick should not be a problem. the bearing shells have tangs on the ends to keep from spinning. I've heard some builders will use loctite on the bearing shells to keep them in place, but doing that will decrease the bearing to journal clearance. Not a big fan of that, but thought I would mention it.
So my bore gauge goes down to .7"- 1.5" with smallest fitting but I'll be using the 2" -6" attachment since the bore (without shell) is around 2 and 5/16". Should I check for roundness with shell out, shell in, or both? I've never had to do this before since all parts are original and the machinist has always checked this when doing the rod work. I've had this car for over 35 years now and have rebuilt the motor twice.
Thanks again for your input- I always know there are members with far more experience and "know how" for when I get into spots like this!
So my bore gauge goes down to .7"- 1.5" with smallest fitting but I'll be using the 2" -6" attachment since the bore (without shell) is around 2 and 5/16". Should I check for roundness with shell out, shell in, or both? I've never had to do this before since all parts are original and the machinist has always checked this when doing the rod work. I've had this car for over 35 years now and have rebuilt the motor twice.
Thanks again for your input- I always know there are members with far more experience and "know how" for when I get into spots like this!
Tq. rod bolts to spec and check for runout with shell out.
Rod Cap OK to use?
