Hello,

After extensive research on here and other websites I’ve finally pulled the trigger on a set of Flotek 180cc 64cc Aluminum heads, a Lunati 60102 cam, and Edelbrock 2101 intake for my 1976 L48 TH350. I’m by no means a mechanic, but I enjoy working on mechanical things and gaining the experience. Below is the most complete list I’ve been able to put together on installing the parts in the car without pulling the engine. Let me know if I’m missing any steps, and if anyone else is running a similar setup let me know how it works!

Edit: I’ve revised the steps to be better and more generic to anyone else that wants to do something similar

If you are using new valve covers it’s good practice to RTV the gaskets to them 24 hours before installing

Also important to fully soak roller lifters in oil if converting to a roller cam. You do not want to soak flat tappet ones, but you should be sure the assembly lube you use on them have plenty of zinc.

1. Disconnect battery
2. Mark where prop sits on hood and remove
3. Prop open hood with a broomstick
4. Mark then remove hood hinges
5. Remove hood
6. Remove air cleaner assembly
7. Drain oil
8. Drain coolant
9. Remove accessory belts
10. Remove alternator & brackets
11. Detach AC compressor and zip tie out of the way
12. Remove AC bracket from cylinder head/intake
13. Remove upper radiator hose
14. Remove heater hoses (engine side only)
15. Remove thermostat housing and thermostat
16. Remove spark plug wires
17. Unplug and remove distributor
18. Remove fan
19. Remove water pump
20. Remove lower radiator hose
21. Remove radiator (cover fins with cardboard to prevent damage)
22. Remove fan shroud (easier to do with radiator out first)
23. Unbolt AC condenser if present and lean it forward
24. Disconnect throttle, fuel, & vacuum lines from carburetor
25. Remove carburetor and clean mating surfaces
26. Remove intake manifold
27. Remove exhaust manifolds/headers
28. Remove valve covers
29. Remover rockers and pushrods (keep each set of rocker/pushrods together if being reused)
30. Remover cylinder heads
31. Clean head mating surface on block
32. Remove lifters with magnet
33. Put car in neutral
34. Unbolt steering linkage so oil pan can clear
35. Remove oil pan
36. Remove harmonic balancer bolt
37. Use pulley puller on harmonic balancer
38. Remove fuel pump & pushrod
39. Remove timing cover
40. Remove timing chain & gears
41. Thread a long bolt into cam and remove halfway (careful not to scratch cam bearings)
42. Remove bolt and fully remove camshaft
43. Coat new camshaft in assembly lube & install
44. Install new lifters with moly lube
45. Install new timing chain with dots lined up, 3 bolts (5/16-18 x 1") (crank at 12, cam at 6) (20 ft lbs)
46. Turn engine 1 full rotation (both gear dots at 12)
47. Reinstall timing cover with front seal, gasket, & 10 bolts (1/4”-20 x 1/2”) (6 ft lbs)
48. Reinstall oil pan with new gasket and 14 bolts in sequence (1/4”-20 x 1/2) (12 ft lbs)
49. Reinstall steering linkage
50. Reinstall pushrod and fuel pump (3/8”-16 x 1 7/16") (30 ft lbs)
51. Put car in park/set parking brake
52. Reinstall harmonic balancer (20 ft/lbs)
53. Reinstall large harmonic balancer bolt (60 ft/lbs)
54. Reconnect AC condenser if present
55. Reinstall fan shroud
56. Reinstall radiator
57. Install new heads with new head gaskets & follow torque sequence on bolts (65 ft/lbs)
58. Measure for correct pushrod length
59. Install pushrods/rocker arms
60. Put car in neutral
61. Turn engine to compression TDC on #1
62. Set valve lash on I:1,2,5,7 E:1,3,4,8
63. Turn engine to compression TDC on #6
64. Set valve lash on I:3,4,6,8 E:2,5,6,7
65. Turn engine to compression TDC #1
66. Install valve covers with gaskets & wire loom on sides (1/4”-20 x 1 3/8”) (Snug then 1/2 turn)
67. Install spark plugs with anti-sieze on threads
68. Wrap intake manifold bolts in teflon tape/thread sealer (unnecessary on outer 4)
69. Install intake manifold with new gaskets, & 12 bolts in sequence (3/8”-16 x 1") (25 ft lbs if aluminum, 30 ft lbs if iron)
70. Install thermostat and housing with 2 bolts (3/8”-16 x 1") (15 ft lbs)(very important to go back and forth in small increments)
71. Install distributor with rotor pointed at #1
72. Install carburetor with 4 bolts (36 in/lb then 144 in/lb)
73. Cap all vacuum connections on intake/carb
74. Install throttle cable
75. Install headers/exhaust manifolds (25 ft lbs)
76. Install spark plug wires
77. Reinstall water pump with new gaskets
78. Hook up upper & lower coolant hoses
79. Reconnect heater hoses
80. Reattach AC compressor
81. Reinstall alternator
82. Reinstall belts
83. Reinstall fan
84. Fill with 10W30 and zinc additive (5 quarts) and replace oil filter
85. Fill coolant & burp system
86. Install air cleaner
87. Reattach hood to brackets/support
88. Adjust hood (DO NOT close until properly adjusted)
89. Hook up battery
90. Fill carburetor with gas/use starter fluid to ensure instant start
91. Start car
92. Immediately run engine at 2000-2500 rpms for 20 minutes to break in cam, varying rpm slightly
93. Set timing (36 degrees)
94. Reattach vacuum accessories
95. Change oil with 10W30 high zinc and filter
96. Re-check torque on carb, intake, exhaust manifolds, & valve covers after 1 week
97. Change oil again after 500 miles

 

Thanks Piersonpie - I am a novice, but the first thing that comes to mind is I would have checked if the pushrods length is compatible with the new lifters and assembled heads.

 

COMP Cams Pro Cam Lube 103

Use this product on the face of each lifter and the lobes on the camshaft. You can use the assembly syurpy stuff on the crankshaft and rods jounrals, timming chains, any where ou have rotating and rolling components. During the eighties and ninities, I build 2 SBC a month, all crane 278 flat tappet cams, used this product by Crane and never lost a single engine. Each engine had a 12 month unimited milage warranty. Each vehicle was road tested and oil and filter changed before delivery. One compliant after 20 months of service, press in valve seat had came out. Machine shop error, but I replace both heads no charge to customer. I would use comp roller cams if I was still building engines.

 

While the above step will allow you to remove the timing chain cover it will do nothing for allowing you to replace the oil pan gasket. To drop the oil pan you need to remove/disconnect the steering linkage to move it out of the way of the oil pan.

This is not required for a cam swap, you will need to remove the AC condenser. Read post #21 on the below thread.

Radiator R&R

This is not required for any of the work you are doing.

The below tools will make this job a lot easier.
Harmonic Balancer Puller/Installer
Crank Turning Socket
Proform Parts 66782 Proform Engine Rotation Adapters | Summit Racing
​​​​​​​

 

Noted and noted. I’ll probably be removing the power steering pump regardless for cleaning the brackets/replacing the hardware, but I’ll keep that in mind. Also if anyone has advice for setting up the stock Quadrajet for the extra bump in horsepower anything would be greatly appreciated.

 

If possible, takes pics of each step you outlined. (I usually keep an old reliable digital camera in the garage when I am working on my car...that way, I can wipe off the camera with aclothif it gets a little grease or oil on it)

 

Soaking the (flat tappet) lifters in oil prior to install is not needed, and it really doesn't do anything - they don't pre-fill themselves by being soaked.. Just smear the bottoms with camshaft installation lube (moly) during assembly. Much less messy. Most cam & lifter companies do not recommend pre-soaking, and in fact recommend against it. However, if you have roller lifters, they should be pre-soaked/dipped to assure that the bearings in the rollers are oil saturated.

When you get oil all over the (flat tappet) lifters, you cannot get the moly assembly lube to stick to the bottom of the lifter where it is needed, so the oil prevents proper assembly lube on the cam/lifter interface. Also, if you are able to get the lifter pre-filled with oil, this will actually interfere with your ability to properly pre-set the lifter pre-load ("valve lash").

Lars

 

You do not need to remove a A/C condenser. You only need about an inch to clear the cam.
You will need to loosen the condenser and insert a piece of wood at the condenser mounts forcing the condenser forward, away from the cam.
Been there, done that twice. Also, I recall removing the headlights vacuum line for a minute or two for condenser clearence.

After you remove the timing chain & sprocket, put the sprocket right back on the cam w/ two bolts. That sprocket will give lots of leverage to work the cam out past the cam bearings. As you near the A/C condenser, remove the sprocket. End of cam will just clear the "propped" condenser.

 

I wouldn't use teflon tape on the intake bolts. I think permatex is recommended.

 

^^^^this^^^
Because most of the Intake bolt holes tap into the oily lifter valley, Permatex Thread Sealant is a must.

 

I’m going off of the Edelbrock instructions on their manifolds, but I have other thread sealers I could use. Is there anywhere else I would want to use thread sealer or locker?

 

Interesting instruction sheet. Permatex thread sealant for me. And yes I have heard some use RTV with success.
I use 3bond 1104 on the intake gaskets for insurance and Permatex thread sealant on head bolts and intake manifold bolts. No issues, no leaks, no vacuum leaks.