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Yep new cars are not any better.
My CTS needed a elec fuel pump. Entire exhaust, rear suspension cradle and gas tank needed to drop out. ?!?!?!?
My buddy has an Audi twin turbo. Changing spark plugs required pulling front bumper, radiator, rad support and both turbos!!! Might as well pull the engine, right? Oh right that comes straight out the front too. Sigh....
Not to be outdone by the genius that decided not to put a drain plug in the differential, my nomination for the Most Evil Engineer Ever goes to the maniacal mastermind who came up with the plug shields for radio interference. This sadistic scholar of pain and suffering not only succeeded in making a serviceable part of the car incredibly difficult to get to, but as a backup to the pain and suffering, chose to attach the razor sharp mounting tabs to the bolts that mount the exhaust manifolds to the block. Pure genius. I promise you that this nominee is still, to this day, giggling his *** off knowing that spark plugs are not being replaced because of his efforts. Further, he can't help but take pleasure in knowing that those of us who would like to keep our Corvettes as factory original as possible, will actually reinstall these torture devices to further our own pain.
Here's to you, Most Evil Engineer Ever! You have succeeded beyond all your expectations!
Somehow I turned this into one of those old Bud Light "Real Men of Genius" commercials in my head. LOL
Well,
When I added factory air to my 67 coupe I installed the battery on the drivers side and was able to remove it in & out with little difficulty. THEN when I joined NCRS and found out that they designed the battery installation to remove the left front tire back half of the fender well, washer bag, that made me think a bit.
Also the 1/4" needed to remove trans easily!
As I've gotten to 'know' our '68 much better, I've often thought of this type of thread - glad you started it because it does make us smile, laugh, shake our heads, etc.
One of my favorites is a '68 only issue: it's the shims used for alignment on the trailing arms. On '68's they aren't slotted, the trailing arm bolts go through a hole in the shims. You have to remove the trailing arm bolts to modify/change the shims and alignment - and we know how much fun that is! When I put my rebuilt trailing arms back in I made the modification to '69+ slotted by drilling the right holes (oh, the humanity! :-) ) and using the slotted shims. My alignment guy told me I should get sainthood for that one. Best, Paul
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by Hopper12
As I've gotten to 'know' our '68 much better, I've often thought of this type of thread - glad you started it because it does make us smile, laugh, shake our heads, etc.
One of my favorites is a '68 only issue: it's the shims used for alignment on the trailing arms. On '68's they aren't slotted, the trailing arm bolts go through a hole in the shims. You have to remove the trailing arm bolts to modify/change the shims and alignment - and we know how much fun that is! When I put my rebuilt trailing arms back in I made the modification to '69+ slotted by drilling the right holes (oh, the humanity! :-) ) and using the slotted shims. My alignment guy told me I should get sainthood for that one. Best, Paul
When I first go t my car and the Bubba before me toed the rear all the way in on both sides, I had to pull all of it apart....then I did what you did....couldnt find those really long cotter pins cheap so I wired them in
I'm about to change a brake booster on a 76. So I'm finding this thread amusing. Recently put the radiator/fan shroud back into this car. Isn't that wonderful. My 77 has electric fans. Damn happy for that!
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Not that they wear out, if at all, and require replacement, but when they do, the clutch fork ball stud requires the removal of the transmission. Then it only takes a minute to remove/replace the stud.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by 4-vettes
I'm about to change a brake booster on a 76. So I'm finding this thread amusing. Recently put the radiator/fan shroud back into this car. Isn't that wonderful. My 77 has electric fans. Damn happy for that!
I followed the factory repair manual and it went very smooth and probably quicker without losing a drop of blood. Yes, it requires removing the steering column. Took about 20 minutes to do that and wasn't that difficult. The gauge panel is removed and there's access to everything in behind there including the demon booster nuts!
I’ve got you all beat!
Have you ever had to replace the rear window defrost blower?
Hah, you haven’t learned any good swear words until you’ve done that.
”$#!~|?$&#@*%/=)(“
Second on my list is swapping the fuel pump on a big block.
And why would you engineer body mounts that are captured in a fiberglass body???
WHY?
Not to say all of your complaints aren't on the level, but you should call Corvette Doctor (Charles Cummings) in Houston and ask him about the heater core on a '96 that failed. Seriously. I'll change heater cores on my C2 a hundred times, and spark plug shields on all of your SB C3s before I'd do what he haf to on that '96. Oh, the coolant drowned the car's computer, among other things. UGH!!!!
I’ve got you all beat!
Have you ever had to replace the rear window defrost blower?
Hah, you haven’t learned any good swear words until you’ve done that.
”$#!~|?$&#@*%/=)(“
Second on my list is swapping the fuel pump on a big block.
And why would you engineer body mounts that are captured in a fiberglass body???
WHY?
No rear window defroster experience but have done the fuel pump on a '72 BB... in a hotel parking lot the evening before a day of auto-crossing. But in the end, after all of the contortions, scraped knuckles, burned forearms, and hours upon hours of swearing – it's all been worth it!
I just did the brake booster on my 75. Wasn't too bad. I took the seat out so I'd have room to crawl around in there but other than that it wasn't anything particularly special. Undo the master cylinder nuts and slide that out of the way. Zip off the nuts on the inside with a swivel socket and long extension and it comes right out. I had more trouble with the clip that connects it to the brake pedal arm than anything else. The whole thing took about and hour and half.
One of my personal favorites is in order to change out the positive battery-to-starter cable, one must remove the transmission. Which necessitates at least a partial removal of the exhaust, crossmember (if you’re lucky enough to have an auto trans), and the main drive shaft.
If had known better, I’d have just made a custom cable and rerouted it AROUND the transmission.
The mechanical fuel pump gets my vote, but the dash is a special Master of Misery! It seems that all the pieces hold hands and rely on parts of the ducting to keep all four pieces together. Then lining it all up, is a ****! Especially the left side, even with the steering column, completely removed. Never again (until next time...).
The mechanical fuel pump gets my vote, but the dash is a special Master of Misery! It seems that all the pieces hold hands and rely on parts of the ducting to keep all four pieces together. Then lining it all up, is a ****! Especially the left side, even with the steering column, completely removed. Never again (until next time...).