Engine tear-down, part 1...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 1
From: Westampton NJ
Engine tear-down, part 1...
...Investigating the problems I had with my motor last Sunday...
Got the car in my friend's garage and turned on the two $16 space heaters...30 minutes later the garage was a nice temperature even though it was quite cold outside.
Pulled the fan assembly off the water pump...discovered that the bearing in the pump is what failed, as it dropped peices out when I removed the pulley.
Used my nifty block drains (I replaced the drain plugs at the bottom exterior of the block with radiator draincocks...drained the block quickly with no mess) and looked at the coolant. It was a rather muddy color with a sheen to it...looks like the head gasket blew between the cylinder ring and a coolant passage...
Drained the oil...it came out beautiful, thick (cold) and brown. I did not see a drop of coolant in the oil. There were no metal shavings/peices either.
Removed the hood, radiator shroud, headers, alternator and water pump.
Called it a day. I feel pretty good seeing the oil come out clean...maybe the only damage is the blown gasket and water pump...In fact, I think that the water pump was solely responsible for all the noise...
:smash:
Got the car in my friend's garage and turned on the two $16 space heaters...30 minutes later the garage was a nice temperature even though it was quite cold outside.
Pulled the fan assembly off the water pump...discovered that the bearing in the pump is what failed, as it dropped peices out when I removed the pulley.
Used my nifty block drains (I replaced the drain plugs at the bottom exterior of the block with radiator draincocks...drained the block quickly with no mess) and looked at the coolant. It was a rather muddy color with a sheen to it...looks like the head gasket blew between the cylinder ring and a coolant passage...
Drained the oil...it came out beautiful, thick (cold) and brown. I did not see a drop of coolant in the oil. There were no metal shavings/peices either.
Removed the hood, radiator shroud, headers, alternator and water pump.
Called it a day. I feel pretty good seeing the oil come out clean...maybe the only damage is the blown gasket and water pump...In fact, I think that the water pump was solely responsible for all the noise...
:smash:
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 1
From: Westampton NJ
Re: Engine tear-down, part 1... (rainman69)
Oh, almost forgot...I got her some nice parts...and will get her a Stewart stage II pump when I get everything checked out.
I got her some nice Moroso steel core thick rubber valve cover gaskets, Fel-Pro 1003 head gaskets and a Fel-Pro steel-core thick rubber one-peice oil pan gasket. I also got her some ARP small head intake bolts, Stage8 locking header bolts, ARP oil pan studs.
I think I'm going to Simple Green the block and repaint it too...
I got her some nice Moroso steel core thick rubber valve cover gaskets, Fel-Pro 1003 head gaskets and a Fel-Pro steel-core thick rubber one-peice oil pan gasket. I also got her some ARP small head intake bolts, Stage8 locking header bolts, ARP oil pan studs.
I think I'm going to Simple Green the block and repaint it too...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 1
From: Westampton NJ
Re: Engine tear-down, part 1... (rainman69)
Did a little work this morning...
Removed the intake...lifter valley was clean. Removed the head bolts, and all passenger's side bolts came out clean. There were a few driver's side bolts that looked messy. Removed the pushrods...all came out clean except the #2 intake pushrod, it looks burnt in a spot.
Removed the heads, and it was immediately apparent that I had coolant leaking into a few cylinders. #1, #3, #4, #6 all had the tell-tale crusty white deposits on the piston tops. All of the pistons are fine except for being covered in a little carbon and the ones mentioned that have the crusty white deposits.
I need to remove the oil pan to check the crank, but I think it will be fine. I also want to remove the lifters and check them for wear.
So, questions:
1) Most effective way to remove the deposits without removing the pistons (they're TRW forged pistons)? I remember a post saying to put Simple Green in the cylinder and then lightly scrub the top of the piston...
2) What would cause the burnt pushrod? It's just a thumbprint size mark on one pushrod...
Removed the intake...lifter valley was clean. Removed the head bolts, and all passenger's side bolts came out clean. There were a few driver's side bolts that looked messy. Removed the pushrods...all came out clean except the #2 intake pushrod, it looks burnt in a spot.
Removed the heads, and it was immediately apparent that I had coolant leaking into a few cylinders. #1, #3, #4, #6 all had the tell-tale crusty white deposits on the piston tops. All of the pistons are fine except for being covered in a little carbon and the ones mentioned that have the crusty white deposits.
I need to remove the oil pan to check the crank, but I think it will be fine. I also want to remove the lifters and check them for wear.
So, questions:
1) Most effective way to remove the deposits without removing the pistons (they're TRW forged pistons)? I remember a post saying to put Simple Green in the cylinder and then lightly scrub the top of the piston...
2) What would cause the burnt pushrod? It's just a thumbprint size mark on one pushrod...
