When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well I appreciate all the input, seems like I should go with the smaller of the two to be better suited for the street and my setup. I'm close to pulling the trigger, unless there are better recommendations?
Well I appreciate all the input, seems like I should go with the smaller of the two to be better suited for the street and my setup. I'm close to pulling the trigger, unless there are better recommendations?
Rattler (118005-09) : 227/235 525/530 @ 109LSA
What intake are you using I have a lt1 hood on my 69 vette with the shorter of the two team g intake and I can use a 4 inch filter .I like skips cam myself but either way have fun .
I have the XR276Hr Retro roller cam with a 4 speed. Which is a 224/230, a step below your choice and she gets a little noisy at 75 mph, and I have 3.08 gears. I also insulated my doors, floor, back area and I am even contemplating above my mufflers. However that might look a little tacky, so I probably won't. I will tell you this, at idle my car does sound pretty good, but you might have to add Headers, straight exhaust with an H-pipe, and chambered mufflers. My bad you might just need some headers with your sidepipes.
Also have the XR276HR in an OEM roller block 383, and really like the powerband. Relatively small duration with 224/230* at .050 which maps to a 1900-5600 rpm powerband, which is perfect for a street-only car. More duration means you'd likely be trading low end torque for revs. Also have 1.6 roller rockers for a bit more lift. Doesn't have the rough idle, in fact it idles pretty smooth. Has a 110* LSA which provides a wider powerband and good midrange. Smaller LSA cams mean more idle thump, narrower powerband with harder mid-range hit, and less vacuum, which is bad on a C3. With aluminum heads, 10.5 cr, EPS intake and 650 DP, couldn't be happier with its manners around town. Car has a 336 rear gear behind a Th400, which is a good compromise for street and highway.
I pulled the trigger on the Rattler (118005-09) : 227/235 525/530 @ 109LSA , got a good deal off eBay for a new one. And ordered some of the Engine Tech Retro Roller lifters that Auggie Doggie is always preaching about. so $600 all in for roller cam and lifters!
Howards recommended one of their springs sets and it's $170. Do these have a good recommendation or are there other springs that are highly recommended?
It doesn't seem that retainer or thrust button matter which you buy, and that they're generic?
And I'll need an aftermarket timing cover to set the cam play, right?
I believe the retainer bolts to the block and only fits factory roller cam blocks, the thrust button goes between the timing cover and the cam gear to set end play.
Probably know this, but you'll want to measure correct pushrod length before assuming a length. I have used an adjustable push rod, and also this slick length checker.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-92138 You'll want to check the sweep on the valve stem with the adjustable one and light checking springs or locked up lifter to be sure of your rocker geometry.
These are the springs that were recommended: Howards 9821-K12
Howards 95201 push rods (7.205")
As stated above….since you have the heads off….to install the springs…..put two light tension checker springs with an adjustable pushrod and install as you would normally….put blue dy-kem on the valance tip and roll the engine over two revolutions….remove and inspect the witness mark….it should favor the center of the valve tip…..here is a 406 Pontiac I am doing and measured the pushrod length last weekend:
Probably know this, but you'll want to measure correct pushrod length before assuming a length. I have used an adjustable push rod, and also this slick length checker.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-92138 You'll want to check the sweep on the valve stem with the adjustable one and light checking springs or locked up lifter to be sure of your rocker geometry.
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
As stated above….since you have the heads off….to install the springs…..put two light tension checker springs with an adjustable pushrod and install as you would normally….put blue dy-kem on the valance tip and roll the engine over two revolutions….remove and inspect the witness mark….it should favor the center of the valve tip…..here is a 406 Pontiac I am doing and measured the pushrod length last weekend:
Jebby
This is good advice! I've used adjustable pushrods before, but never checker springs with dye.
Sure. Been watching "Myvintageiron7512" videos for awhile to review various aspects of my 383 build, which was completed about a year ago. They are comprehensive and informative. In this video below he uses a $15 part, that is specific to various types of motors, to check rocker arm geometry which is determined by pushrod length. Couldn't be easier.
Have done the adjustable in previous builds, but tried this and the sweep was dead on. Wouldn't use this without checking sweep with dye (or I just use a Sharpie on top of the valve stem as I have those around), but a clever tool for sure.
I been following this post and curious why these have the same part number. Hope I’m not stepping on toes hear, if so just disregard.
The “000” cams are custom grinds from Comp…..the 3103S/3105S are the lobe numbers from their lobe catalog….(they don’t offer the love catalog to the public).
What the heck is that cam for? It has no duration…..
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Jan 19, 2023 at 09:13 PM.
Jebby
I new I was going to take a hit on this one. Some one was playing with numbers on his computer. They sent me a couple cam card and as odd as it seems that grind made 27 more torque than a flat tappet crowler cam with bigger duration .I though the part# looked familiar and sure enough it was here.Thats why I put it up.I thought it was odd the parts numbers matched but the spec were different.The Howard cam Im looking at on the summit sight is listed as LSA 110 and Howard had 112. 110315-12. I haven’t called Howard yet but I believe thats a mistake to. As confusing as it is. I just couldn’t leave it alone. Sorry I had to ask. Kevin
These are the springs that were recommended: Howards 9821-K12
Howards 95201 push rods (7.205")
I ended up needing 7.100" rods when I measured with both the iron eagle heads and the chinese aluminum castings I replaced them with.. this will vary with the heads/ valve stem length and I believe rocker arms used.
Jebby
I new I was going to take a hit on this one. Some one was playing with numbers on his computer. They sent me a couple cam card and as odd as it seems that grind made 27 more torque than a flat tappet crowler cam with bigger duration .I though the part# looked familiar and sure enough it was here.Thats why I put it up.I thought it was odd the parts numbers matched but the spec were different.The Howard cam Im looking at on the summit sight is listed as LSA 110 and Howard had 112. 110315-12. I haven’t called Howard yet but I believe thats a mistake to. As confusing as it is. I just couldn’t leave it alone. Sorry I had to ask. Kevin
Im sure others can expain it more accurately but the lower duration cams will usually make more torque as the cost of HP and a lower rpm limit before the power drops off quickly. you get a stump puller thats good for a pickup truck but bad for most sportcar applications. The key is to select the right cam for your transmission and rear end gearing along with the type of use and rpms it will see. This is one reason there is no one size fits all 350 "best cam".. for many stock c3s the best compromise is usually a cam in the 262-270 range.
I think you hit the nail on the head. Im still looking for the match I want. The crossfire and the computer is a pain to work with but its cheaper than buying a new holley injection and I know I can get torque where I want. That cam card in post 33 is real low in the range. Probably belongs in a tractor. Lol. It’s the parts # that I don’t get. The card in post 5. Not really important but the specs don’t seem to match?? When I was a kid had a 68 firebird convert with a 396 @ 4speed. Bought it like that. Put a 2.73 rear end in it. That car pulled hard and glass pack welded on the collectors dumped under the seat. Love torque lots of fun.
Sure. Been watching "Myvintageiron7512" videos for awhile to review various aspects of my 383 build, which was completed about a year ago. They are comprehensive and informative. In this video below he uses a $15 part, that is specific to various types of motors, to check rocker arm geometry which is determined by pushrod length. Couldn't be easier.
Have done the adjustable in previous builds, but tried this and the sweep was dead on. Wouldn't use this without checking sweep with dye (or I just use a Sharpie on top of the valve stem as I have those around), but a clever tool for sure.
