1970 - starter/battery issue
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 5
1970 - starter/battery issue
Problem #3 in the series with my 1970 L46: I have driven it now three times since right before Christmas without any issues with it starting. Yesterday I drove it for a couple hours, including at least two stops and re-starts at stores and gas station without incident. I got home, parked it in the driveway (slight incline), washed it, and went to start it up to put in the garage, but all I got was a click when I turned the key. It did not even try to turn over. I tried multiple times, rocked the car, open and closed the hood, etc.
I finally decided to hook up my battery charger/starter and try to jump it, even though it made no sense. The battery read 12V as soon as I hooked it up, and I had already had it checked out last month and everything was good... However, sure enough this worked and it turned over and started right up! If we assume this was not just a coincidence, where do I start to identify and fix the problem? Unless the issue truly is the battery somehow, what else would have been jolted to life by the charger/starter?
I finally decided to hook up my battery charger/starter and try to jump it, even though it made no sense. The battery read 12V as soon as I hooked it up, and I had already had it checked out last month and everything was good... However, sure enough this worked and it turned over and started right up! If we assume this was not just a coincidence, where do I start to identify and fix the problem? Unless the issue truly is the battery somehow, what else would have been jolted to life by the charger/starter?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
About 90% of these "no-crank" issues are the fault of a poor GRD, and there are several on C3s.
Unhook your POS side and go at each and every connection on the car with a wire brush. There's one under the battery compartment, another near the starter and a few connections at the solenoid.
It is somewhat common when people installed another starter, to leave off the bracket support to the block. That's a GRD also. Is it missing?
Unhook your POS side and go at each and every connection on the car with a wire brush. There's one under the battery compartment, another near the starter and a few connections at the solenoid.
It is somewhat common when people installed another starter, to leave off the bracket support to the block. That's a GRD also. Is it missing?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 21, 2023 at 05:08 PM.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 4,247
From: US-PNW
Along with simply cleaning and snugging the positive and negative connections at the battery and starter/frame, it's not too difficult to test the battery and alternator. The battery could have an internal problem where it shows 12v but doesn't have the cranking amps. Additionally, your alternator may not be supplying enough voltage (~13.5v-15v) to keep the battery in good condition. With an electrical multi-meter it's simple to check the charging state at the battery.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
Batteries must be tested under load. Checking battery voltage on a sitting battery is a useless test. A battery could show 12+ volts while sitting and well below that under load.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 651
Likes: 508
From: Ohio
After the ground cleaning...0
At home battery load test.
Read the static voltage. All circuits off. Should be 12.6.
Headlights on 15 seconds three times spaced by 15 second intervals.
Read cranking voltage on a 10 second crank should be 10.5 or better.
Watch the time for voltage recovery to above 12v. Recovery should be quick.
Failure at any segment, recharge battery, re test, fails again replace.
You may discover it's not even worth the recharge.
At home battery load test.
Read the static voltage. All circuits off. Should be 12.6.
Headlights on 15 seconds three times spaced by 15 second intervals.
Read cranking voltage on a 10 second crank should be 10.5 or better.
Watch the time for voltage recovery to above 12v. Recovery should be quick.
Failure at any segment, recharge battery, re test, fails again replace.
You may discover it's not even worth the recharge.
