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Big block oil pan

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Old Feb 7, 2023 | 02:00 PM
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Default Big block oil pan

I'm going to replace my '69 bb oil pan gasket, and possibly my rear main seal, and I'm wondering if I should run the car up a set of ramps, or jack it up and let the wheels hang loose. I'm thinking that I should get more clearance if I let the suspension hang down. I remember 15 yrs ago when I replaced the gasket, that reinstalling the pan was a bit of a pia because it doesn't just go streight up, because of the oil pick up tube.
What do you think?
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Old Feb 7, 2023 | 02:18 PM
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I use a floor jack and raise the car high enough to slide the ramp under, but I turn the ramp around so I can slide under easily, then do the opposite side the same way. I don’t like having the front end hanging.
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Old Feb 7, 2023 | 03:11 PM
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I changed mine on ramps 2 years ago. The back of the ramps were removable for more room. Plus of course jack stands too.
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Old Feb 7, 2023 | 05:29 PM
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I don’t see any benefit from a fully extended suspension for the work you are contemplating.

As others have stated, don’t let the front “hang”. Be sure you put support under the area of the frame horns if you are jacking on the frame.
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Old Feb 7, 2023 | 06:07 PM
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RAMPS !!! So much safer.

I wonder if the pump screen was truly what was hanging up on your last oil pan swap. Sometimes the front crank counterweight is hanging down. If at any time the front of the pan is fighting you, just jog the key to get the weight up in the block. There was an old trick of putting a certain cylinder on TDC to assure the counterweight was clear of the pan before unbolting. Anyone? Anyone?

If I could give one piece of advice on pan removal. Buy a 1/4" drive extension about 10" long. Slips right in there to get those pan bolts off. Not everybody has 1/4" drive ratchet / sockets but they should have for a task like this.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 7, 2023 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2023 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 69L88
I don’t see any benefit from a fully extended suspension for the work you are contemplating.

As others have stated, don’t let the front “hang”. Be sure you put support under the area of the frame horns if you are jacking on the frame.
I'm thinking that I have to drop the drag link/tie rods, idler arm, etc. and it may go lower if the suspension is hanging????
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Old Feb 7, 2023 | 09:56 PM
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By just removing the two idler arm bolts from the frame the steering linkage will drop low enough to get the stock pan off. Did this with my 427 a year ago and it provided plenty of clearance. This is a standard steering car, not power, so that may make a difference but it's quick to disconnect and see.
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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 01:07 PM
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Default Good advise

Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
RAMPS !!! So much safer.

I wonder if the pump screen was truly what was hanging up on your last oil pan swap. Sometimes the front crank counterweight is hanging down. If at any time the front of the pan is fighting you, just jog the key to get the weight up in the block. There was an old trick of putting a certain cylinder on TDC to assure the counterweight was clear of the pan before unbolting. Anyone? Anyone?

On a small block:
After you drop the idler arm, turn the timing mark to the 5 o'clock position (as viewed from the front) to get the weight out of the way. Might work on a big block too.

If I could give one piece of advice on pan removal. Buy a 1/4" drive extension about 10" long. Slips right in there to get those pan bolts off. Not everybody has 1/4" drive ratchet / sockets but they should have for a task like this.
Good advise.
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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 02:12 PM
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I hadn't thought about the crank weights, but it makes sense that they could be a problem.
Thanks everyone.
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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 09:14 PM
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cheap harbor freight wobble extensions also work good here. sorta like a partial u-joint.
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