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That would be my first guess.
The poly were a bit of pain to stuff in but I used a threaded rod and some washers (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tallation.html) and it went fine. The brackets were originally straight and even so just take some time and bend it back to where it should be. Check your other side of course
M
That would be my first guess.
The poly were a bit of pain to stuff in but I used a threaded rod and some washers (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tallation.html) and it went fine. The brackets were originally straight and even so just take some time and bend it back to where it should be. Check your other side of course
M
I’ve ordered a complete set of bushings and end links (both) but did it in good rubber replacements. The links are cheap and with the way this one was bent I don’t want to risk it failing again if I straightened it so I just bought new. I’ve used the poly in other cars I’ve owned but prefer hard rubber. Moog is my first choice but I’ve got standard replacements on the way.
I also pulled the bar and bushing saddles off today and wire brushed them to bare metal and painted them back to new in gloss black. When the parts come in I’ll press in the bushings and be back in business.
Can’t drive it anyway right now with the roads covered in salt.
“I see said the blind man”
I had gotten the new bushings in and it bothered me that there was not a clear cause for the damage to the end link. Well yesterday after a month and a dozen issues resolved I got the car off the jackstands and back on its wheels. Took it for a short drive to the gas station and back tucking it away in the garage.
Today I stuck my head under the car and saw what the issue was. I had put the parts back in as I took them off but that wasn’t necessarily correct plus I had used longer bolts. My bad on that.
With the car in the air wheels hanging it wasn’t obvious but with it on its suspension there it is. The top of the link has to clear the outer side of the frame rail and the longer bolt was hitting it when the suspension compressed. Also the head of the bolt needs to be mounted inboard with the nut towards the wheel.
My mistake for not catching it. Now at least with a definite cause and solution I feel better about it.
It’s a lot more obvious when the wheels aren’t hanging.
That was my guess back in post 15, glad you found the cause.
yup..and in 16 as the aim note’s what direction bolts go.. seems counterintuitive to keep bolt away from tire side but that frame hit explains why..
glad sorted !
yup..and in 16 as the aim note’s what direction bolts go.. seems counterintuitive to keep bolt away from tire side but that frame hit explains why..
glad sorted !
Keeping the bolt away from the tire was in my head
Thanks for updating with the root cause! Perhaps it will prevent this from happening to someone else.
If it does great. Felt with the time given to help it was only right to follow up with the outcome. The help is very much appreciated.
Sometimes working on your own car is more difficult than someone else’s with the same issue. Even if you should know the answer to a problem you don’t because its yours, I’ve referred to this as experiencing what I’ve called some 40 years as “owner fog”. When this happens its time to put the wenches down and call in your friends.
Mine is installed correctly ,,, the AIM is fooling you if you look at it it’s showing it in a upright position when in reality it should be folded down to the left more and you can see that if that happened the bend will be on the top … good luck on you project .. 😁
If you look at that AIM picture more closely, it shows the stabilizer bar coming from the right. I mis-interpreted it at first. Apparently either way works though.
So it looks like this from the side view
do you have a side view the bend should be on the top
Originally Posted by 69autoXr
that link is installed backwards
Originally Posted by forman
Mine is installed correctly ,,, the AIM is fooling you if you look at it it’s showing it in a upright position when in reality it should be folded down to the left more and you can see that if that happened the bend will be on the top … good luck on you project .. 😁
Originally Posted by forman
Listen I’m NOT the one with the blown out bushing and I m not the one with the problem here you can look at that AIM all day and tell me I’m wrong but I’m not so once again good luck with your project😁
Here is the illustration from my '72 Chassis Service Manual. Certainly looks like it should curve toward the front of the car with the bracket's bend to the rear. (Both my cars have it oriented this direction.)
Here is the illustration from my '72 Chassis Service Manual. Certainly looks like it should curve toward the front of the car with the bracket's bend to the rear. (Both my cars have it oriented this direction.)
This thread made me curious, so I looked under my own C3. The illustration above is exactly how the rear sway bar in my `79 is installed, with the link bracket bend pointing rearward with the top & bottom bolt heads inboard / nuts outboard. My rear sway bar setup appears like it`s been undisturbed for a very long time.
Whenever reviewing an assembly instruction picture, I generally assume that it is best to follow it exactly, without deviation. I run into a lot less trouble that way. I have also decided to replace all my rear sway bar bushings after my inspection.
Have a look at these two diagrams, the first and the one I went by showed the top bolts head facing the tire while the second I’m seeing now with the job done shows it inboard with the head facing the frame. I installed a shorter bolt and with the head facing inboard it clears the frame without issue now.
Here you can see with the longer bolt, threads facing inboard how it contacted the frame.
The car is also sitting on jackstands in this pic with the trailing arms hanging. Hard to see how the top of the link passes the frame when the suspension compresses.
Now with the shorter bolt, threads facing outboard towards the tire there’s no clearance issue.
I use a nylon lock nut so it won’t back off.
Have a look at these two diagrams, the first and the one I went by showed the top bolts head facing the tire while the second I’m seeing now with the job done shows it inboard with the head facing the frame.
My trust is with the Service Manual ('72) and here is a pic from my very original, very untouched, (& very dusty) '67.
Agreed, the two pictures are shown from two different angles. Picture shows the back of the trailing arm (where the nut plate is installed) is on the right, the curve goes towards the front of the car
