'73 Vette - Restomod / EFI
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 3
Likes: 5
'73 Vette - Restomod / EFI
Hey everybody. I'm on a bunch of different classic car forums. Decided to go ahead and sign up here. I do a lot of EFI swaps and restomod builds at my shop so willing to help anyone with tech questions.
Here's a 1973 Vette we're currently building. Customer wanted a reliable street car without going to crazy on power but an emphasis on shiny "show" parts and modern amenities. L48 350 bottom end with .030 over pistons, Edelbrock E-Street heads, Edelbrock EPS intake and Summit K-1103 flat tappet budget cam and lifters. Built for torque and drive-ability with a stock-ish stall converter in mind.
Finishing off the motor is a set of Doug's Headers side pipes with muffler inserts, a March Performance serpentine kit with the offset crank pulley to accommodate the factory K-member (2 belt system), a Holley Sniper EFI unit with complete Holley Hyper-Spark ecu controlled timing. Power steering is GM type 2 remote reservoir style (complete pain in the butt to get fittings / power steering lines to work with the original power steering box). Radiator is an aluminum Cold Case with dual electric fans and chrome shroud. Sniper EFI controlling fans.
A/C is a Vintage Air kit. Vintage Air is wired into the Holley Sniper so when the A/C compressor turns on, the Sniper gives an idle kick. The Sniper also controls wide-open-throttle shutdown of the compressor.
Dakota Digital gauges, GPS speed unit for accurate Speedo, EFI fuel tank with 340lh pump, -6an black braided hose and rear mount Holley Regulator. Also did a power locks conversion, 1 touch power window controllers, and a Keyless entry module that allows lock, unlock, remote start, and replaces key'd ignition with a modern push button start. I know this type of stuff isn't for the hotrod purist, but at least the people that are interested can get some ideas of what can be accomplished in these type of vehicles. Oh and installed a motorized headlight kit so no more vacuum operated headlight doors.
Under the car we've got full Ride Tech street grip adjustable shocks front and back. Ridetech composite transverse leaf spring, new front and rear swar bars and endlinks, all new rubber front brushings, tie rods, ball joints, steering cylinder, high pressure hydraulic lines, as well as body bushings (half of the body bushings cage nuts were so rusted they had to be cut out, not fun). We originally put factory height front springs in but the car sat about 7in too high. Looked like a mad max/ baja off road car. Ordered 2" drop springs and it brought the car down some but still way too high. We tried everything to get the front down. Nothing worked. Ended up cutting a coil and a half off the stock height replacement springs and it finally sat right.
Interior carpet, trim panels, weather stripping, a/c vents, center console, gauge cluster, passenger side map pocket panel, luggage comparts ect are all new. Seats are some pretty slick corbeau's with power tracks. Overall it's going to be a nice Restomod for the customer.
Engine running (just after break in, temp power and start hookups)
Electric Power Headlights:
Guage and radio setup on bench:
Engine Overview:
Keyless Entry / Push Button Start overview:
For some reason It won't let me upload pics.... I'll update this thread as we move forward with wiring/interior/finishing process.
Here's a 1973 Vette we're currently building. Customer wanted a reliable street car without going to crazy on power but an emphasis on shiny "show" parts and modern amenities. L48 350 bottom end with .030 over pistons, Edelbrock E-Street heads, Edelbrock EPS intake and Summit K-1103 flat tappet budget cam and lifters. Built for torque and drive-ability with a stock-ish stall converter in mind.
Finishing off the motor is a set of Doug's Headers side pipes with muffler inserts, a March Performance serpentine kit with the offset crank pulley to accommodate the factory K-member (2 belt system), a Holley Sniper EFI unit with complete Holley Hyper-Spark ecu controlled timing. Power steering is GM type 2 remote reservoir style (complete pain in the butt to get fittings / power steering lines to work with the original power steering box). Radiator is an aluminum Cold Case with dual electric fans and chrome shroud. Sniper EFI controlling fans.
A/C is a Vintage Air kit. Vintage Air is wired into the Holley Sniper so when the A/C compressor turns on, the Sniper gives an idle kick. The Sniper also controls wide-open-throttle shutdown of the compressor.
Dakota Digital gauges, GPS speed unit for accurate Speedo, EFI fuel tank with 340lh pump, -6an black braided hose and rear mount Holley Regulator. Also did a power locks conversion, 1 touch power window controllers, and a Keyless entry module that allows lock, unlock, remote start, and replaces key'd ignition with a modern push button start. I know this type of stuff isn't for the hotrod purist, but at least the people that are interested can get some ideas of what can be accomplished in these type of vehicles. Oh and installed a motorized headlight kit so no more vacuum operated headlight doors.
Under the car we've got full Ride Tech street grip adjustable shocks front and back. Ridetech composite transverse leaf spring, new front and rear swar bars and endlinks, all new rubber front brushings, tie rods, ball joints, steering cylinder, high pressure hydraulic lines, as well as body bushings (half of the body bushings cage nuts were so rusted they had to be cut out, not fun). We originally put factory height front springs in but the car sat about 7in too high. Looked like a mad max/ baja off road car. Ordered 2" drop springs and it brought the car down some but still way too high. We tried everything to get the front down. Nothing worked. Ended up cutting a coil and a half off the stock height replacement springs and it finally sat right.
Interior carpet, trim panels, weather stripping, a/c vents, center console, gauge cluster, passenger side map pocket panel, luggage comparts ect are all new. Seats are some pretty slick corbeau's with power tracks. Overall it's going to be a nice Restomod for the customer.
Engine running (just after break in, temp power and start hookups)
Electric Power Headlights:
Guage and radio setup on bench:
Engine Overview:
Keyless Entry / Push Button Start overview:
For some reason It won't let me upload pics.... I'll update this thread as we move forward with wiring/interior/finishing process.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
Nice job.
As for PS with Type II, there is any easy solution to this. I did this 12 years ago. I used a Type II pump with 16mm O-ring fitting.
Use a NAPA NPS 73418 which is a short 16 mm male O-ring to 16 mm female O-ring hardline off the pump. With a few small bends, that brings the pressure line around to where the stock PS pump outlet was. Then use a stock 80-82 PS pressure hose, NAPA NPS 71729, which is 1/4" male flare to 16mm male O-ring. Easy.
I have a lot of pics and info in this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-hoses.html
My one other comment is that I would reconsider the 340lph pump. That is overkill for a mild 350. Heck, a 255lph pump would be overkill. I have a 496 BBC and my 340 is probably overkill. I run my regulator at the rear and an Aeromotive pump speed control to prevent fuel heat buildup. I also have -8 lines. -6 lines will choke that 340 pump and make it overwork and overheat.
As for PS with Type II, there is any easy solution to this. I did this 12 years ago. I used a Type II pump with 16mm O-ring fitting.
Use a NAPA NPS 73418 which is a short 16 mm male O-ring to 16 mm female O-ring hardline off the pump. With a few small bends, that brings the pressure line around to where the stock PS pump outlet was. Then use a stock 80-82 PS pressure hose, NAPA NPS 71729, which is 1/4" male flare to 16mm male O-ring. Easy.
I have a lot of pics and info in this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-hoses.html
My one other comment is that I would reconsider the 340lph pump. That is overkill for a mild 350. Heck, a 255lph pump would be overkill. I have a 496 BBC and my 340 is probably overkill. I run my regulator at the rear and an Aeromotive pump speed control to prevent fuel heat buildup. I also have -8 lines. -6 lines will choke that 340 pump and make it overwork and overheat.
Last edited by SteveG75; Feb 15, 2023 at 08:33 AM.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 3
Likes: 5
Nice job.
As for PS with Type II, there is any easy solution to this. I did this 12 years ago. I used a Type II pump with 16mm O-ring fitting.
Use a NAPA NPS 73418 which is a short 16 mm male O-ring to 16 mm female O-ring hardline off the pump. With a few small bends, that brings the pressure line around to where the stock PS pump outlet was. Then use a stock 80-82 PS pressure hose, NAPA NPS 71729, which is 1/4" male flare to 16mm male O-ring. Easy.
I have al,ot of pics and info in this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-hoses.html
My one other comment is that I would reconsider the 340lph pump. That is overkill for a mild 350. Heck, a 255lph pump would be overkill. I have a 496 BBC and my 340 is probably overkill. I run my regulator at the rear and an Aeromotive pump speed control to prevent fuel heat buildup. I also have -8 lines. -6 lines will choke that 340 pump and make it overwork and overheat.
As for PS with Type II, there is any easy solution to this. I did this 12 years ago. I used a Type II pump with 16mm O-ring fitting.
Use a NAPA NPS 73418 which is a short 16 mm male O-ring to 16 mm female O-ring hardline off the pump. With a few small bends, that brings the pressure line around to where the stock PS pump outlet was. Then use a stock 80-82 PS pressure hose, NAPA NPS 71729, which is 1/4" male flare to 16mm male O-ring. Easy.
I have al,ot of pics and info in this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-hoses.html
My one other comment is that I would reconsider the 340lph pump. That is overkill for a mild 350. Heck, a 255lph pump would be overkill. I have a 496 BBC and my 340 is probably overkill. I run my regulator at the rear and an Aeromotive pump speed control to prevent fuel heat buildup. I also have -8 lines. -6 lines will choke that 340 pump and make it overwork and overheat.
You are correct, 340lph is overkill for a 290-325hp small block. We usually use 255lph pumps for snipers (it’s also what the sniper master kit comes with). But our customer got a deal on an efi tank that came with a 340lph pump so thats what we’re using. We have a rear mount holley regulator/post filter unit setup back by the tank. All the additional fuel being used just goes back into the tank without heating up. Using a 340lph with the built-in sniper regulator would definitely cause hot fuel issues sending that much fuel forward and returning. We’ve seen it on several cars. Also, The pump is capable of pwm control. If there’s any issues down the road its simple to add a fuel pump controller that turns the duty cycle down under a specified rpm. But we havent have any issues with any sniper setup running -6an feed, rear mounted return regulator and 255lph&340lph pumps.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
Thanks! Yeah i did the same type of deal for the power steering pump. Got the PS pump high pressure fitting adapter then found a factory power steering hose in Oreilly’s that had the correct hard line bends we needed. Then a couple adapters to hook that short line to the factory corvette high pressure line. Probably would have been helpful to make a post here about it. But we work with so many different cars it would be impossible to be on forums for every make and model so we just get used to figuring things out on the fly.
You are correct, 340lph is overkill for a 290-325hp small block. We usually use 255lph pumps for snipers (it’s also what the sniper master kit comes with). But our customer got a deal on an efi tank that came with a 340lph pump so thats what we’re using. We have a rear mount holley regulator/post filter unit setup back by the tank. All the additional fuel being used just goes back into the tank without heating up. Using a 340lph with the built-in sniper regulator would definitely cause hot fuel issues sending that much fuel forward and returning. We’ve seen it on several cars. Also, The pump is capable of pwm control. If there’s any issues down the road its simple to add a fuel pump controller that turns the duty cycle down under a specified rpm. But we havent have any issues with any sniper setup running -6an feed, rear mounted return regulator and 255lph&340lph pumps.
You are correct, 340lph is overkill for a 290-325hp small block. We usually use 255lph pumps for snipers (it’s also what the sniper master kit comes with). But our customer got a deal on an efi tank that came with a 340lph pump so thats what we’re using. We have a rear mount holley regulator/post filter unit setup back by the tank. All the additional fuel being used just goes back into the tank without heating up. Using a 340lph with the built-in sniper regulator would definitely cause hot fuel issues sending that much fuel forward and returning. We’ve seen it on several cars. Also, The pump is capable of pwm control. If there’s any issues down the road its simple to add a fuel pump controller that turns the duty cycle down under a specified rpm. But we havent have any issues with any sniper setup running -6an feed, rear mounted return regulator and 255lph&340lph pumps.
