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So on the 72 Vette I recently bought, one thing on my hit list was the parking brake not working. I watched a couple videos about it and when I got under the car, the loose cable seemed like the obvious issue. I tightened it up according to the videos. The resistance on the brake handle feels correct now, but with no effect on the wheels. They spin as if there is no brake applied at all. I asked the previous owner and although he had replaced all the discs and pads, he never touched the parking drums. I assume I need to replace them, but wanted to see if there was maybe something obvious that I might be missing. Any guidance is greatly appreciated! Thanks
There is a shoe adjustment for each wheel. It's accessed through a small hole in the rotor when the wheel is removed. Check out this video and then do further searches:
So on the 72 Vette I recently bought, one thing on my hit list was the parking brake not working. I asked the previous owner and although he had replaced all the discs and pads, he never touched the parking drums. I assume I need to replace them, but wanted to see if there was maybe something obvious that I might be missing. Any guidance is greatly appreciated! Thanks
Some thoughts since you are a new owner, first time vette owner?
This parking brake system was ok at best. It is not an emergency system by any means but if in good shape and correctly adjusted as shown in the above video they will hold a car in neutral. Now many have abandoned using them but it may be a state inspection item for a new registration so you should get them working.
Some red flags.
1- Previous owner worked on the brakes but didn't touch the parking brake. They usually means " screw it, I am putting pads, maybe SS calipers or rotors and that's it". It doesn't always mean that but I have been working on these cars for 45 years repairing the work of many owners, vette shops, dealerships, and vendors so take for what it's worth.
2- You made adjustment on the cable without positive results. This most likely is because the parking brake star wheels are seized, springs may be broken, or someone removed them years ago. Also, if intact, the cables are most likely stretched out.
This is what I would do.
Inspect the brake system, do not trust the last guy knew what he was doing- most don't. Look at the calipers, pads, hoses, and rotors. Do the rotors still have rivets in them? if so, they are almost certainly original and the PB hardware is going to be rusted.
Move the calipers up out of the way, you can use a piece of wood cut to size to keep the pads in place. Stock rotors are 1.250" thick at the max dimension. Look for any sign of fluid leaks at the piston boots.
Look at the hoses to see if they appear newer or old. Cheap brake repairs or brake work done by unskilled labor usually means the hoses are not inspected or checked and if they are over 10 years old probably need replacement, depending on the condition of the brake fluid.
Mount a dial indicator on the arm or frame and measure the rotor runout. If a cheap TA rebuild was done in the past the rotors are retained by the lug nuts and more than likely have runout over 005". New rotors do not mean the runout will be good. Turning rear rotors on a conventional brake lathe or engine lathe will guarantee the runout increases.
Measure the rotor thickness 1.215" is junk. Some new rotors, such as Wilwoods are thin to begin with, I am speaking of stock rotors. New rotors are Chinese made, just about all I can think off and they start off already 005" thinner at 1.245"
Now you should know if the brake system is in good order, and you just need to address the PB or do you have to repair the last guy's work?
Since the rotors were probably replaced at some point they will come off and then you can see if the shoes are snug, if they pull out easy one of the springs is broken. You can try to move the star wheel, maybe spray the threads and see if it moves. If it moves work it in and out until you can see the shoe position change, then you can adjust them but that may be wishful thinking.
Look at the inside of the rotor hat for grooves, they can be trued in a lathe but unless you have a lathe, the cost outweighs the cost of new rotors.
If you go with new SS PB hardware, check the parts close. There's only a couple of suppliers yet all the vendors sell them. I NEVER use new SS hardware without modifying the parts.
You can replace most of the parts on the car with patience and a screwdriver with some slots cut in it for a spring tool. You won't get the anchor lock, or one hold down pin changed since they are captured.
Now- if the axle has play in it or make noise then you are into rebuilding the arms completely and that's a whole different story.
Wow! Thanks you guys! Tons of information! I am not a mechanic and a just a novice hobbiest, but I think I can handle this. I have some learning to do, but with all this information I think I am on the right track.
I also found this video which seems pretty good. What do you think?
I have to admit I didn't watch the entire thing, but merely skipped through it; seems pretty comprehensive. Something else to have for your new car is the 1972 Chassis Service Manual (there's a companion Chassis Overhaul Manual that really dives into the engine, trans, differential, etc.). The CSM covers all of this sort of maintenance and gives the proper settings and torque values. The reproductions are quite good quality.
Yep! got the service manual. Was not aware of the Overhaul Manual...
The Overhaul Manual is a nice companion, but in my decades of working on my Corvettes is cracked open maybe once for every 50 times I consult the Service Manual. It really dives into component rebuilds that are not commonly done as a part of maintenance. If you don't have an Assembly Instruction Manual for '72 get one of those too. Mine is used waaay more often for how components fit together and what type of hardware was used as it's primarily an illustration guide –– especially if you are trying to keep your car as true to '72 as possible. I prefer the PDF digital AIM over the paper ones. I can always print out a page or three if needed.
Forgot about this last document that I find important for my own '72. Best of all it's free from the GM Heritage site for all sorts of Chevrolets back 100 years. It's sort of like the owner's manual and specs all rolled into one.
Parking brake
