When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's some pics of my '75 L82's third gear and synchronizer hub. I was feeling sort of silly for tearing it apart until I saw these corners. Should I replace these parts, polish/ stone them down, or throw it back together like this?
Very worn slider. Splines are worn narrow on lower half. Causes popping out of gear when going on-off throttle, especially so in second gear.
You might want to examine the inside of the sliders especially the 1-2 (rearward) slider. If you see narrowing of the splines, you probably need to replace that piece. That said, your gears show normal expected wear. Probably not popping out of gear. No significant chipping on the clutch teeth. I would not replace that gear.
Gear and engagement teeth looks good to me too, make sure the synchro's don't turn when you apply pressure while trying to turn the synchro on/to the gear, they should grip the gear under pressure so the teeth can line up for a gear change , if they don't they will grind during a gear change , I've had some new synchros that were bad so always check , even new parts
Just curious why did you take it apart? If it shifted fine I would just get a rebuild kit and put it back together. If it had shifting problems I would dig deeper. An excellent resource is Paul G. Just google Paul G Muncie rebuild. Worlds foremost Muncie expert. He has all parts, his own special rebuild kits, etc.
and parts very reasonable , and video’s excellent.
helped me a lot on mine here and others. Mine had 30000 miles but bearing going out causing vibration in neutral clutch out. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-etc-diy.html
Paul’s the Man on manual transmission, nice guy to talk with on the phone too back when he was a builder, super nice and knowledgeable, I have one of his books from way back and it’s about wore out too . He started his own parts company because when he was a transmission builder and shop owner he hated the quality and inconsistency of the parts they were receiving
Paul's videos are what ultimately motivated me to rebuild it. The car had sat for quite a long time when I got it. The clutch was locked up, but I was able to break it loose. A buddy finally burned it up last summer, which is just as well, as I couldn't easily break the drain plug free while the trans was in the car; this was a bit of a red flag for me. Seeing Paul improve a brand new Super T10 was the deciding factor, since I had no shifting issues with it, I just decided I wanted to use his rebuild kit and follow his tips (I bought the book, too!), and probably never have to mess with it again. Taking it apart, I found out the oil was almost non-existent...other than that, the gear teeth pictured were the worst looking parts in it. I'm really looking forward to getting it all back together with the other modifications I have planned. @interpon , that thread (and several others) are some of yours I refer back to quite frequently.
Alright, got 'er all torn down, Got some neato stuff on order, due here Thursday. I've got a few tasks lined out, including chamfering the edge of the gears and all the other neat stuff that @5speeds has in his videos, fitting synchronizers, burnishing them in (I presume that involves valve grinding compound..), I'll be drilling the mid plate for ventilation, etc. Now I'm looking at the synchro hubs and wondering if it's worth another $160 to replace them so it's never an issue, or am I overthinking this? I'm a machinist that works on a tiny little world, and I sometimes don't know if I'm overkilling it. I'm planning on "bulletproof", but I'm also a very occasional doofus with the gears, and an aspiring road racer (Corvette museum / track is about an hour away). Looking for experienced opinions with longevity on these hubs; in the past, I would have just drained and refilled this trans. Thanks again, guys.
Here's a couple of links I found with a different perspective on Super T10 rebuilding, if anyone else is going through this stuff right now. LOTS of really good information here.
I would use as a boat anchor ad go with a t56 6 speed or at least the tkx 5 speed .
Pick one from below:
1. Oh man, you're right. Life is way too short to enjoy rebuilding something that has no purpose. I should be throwing big money at stuff I need even less, for something I won't use that often.
2. Brilliant advice! Please help me decide what car and parts you want me to have. I clearly am not qualified to make decisions for me.
3. Very well crafted and intelligent response. I will definitely take you up on that when I get a boat.
4. If you think THIS is stupid, wait till you see what's next.
1. Oh man, you're right. Life is way too short to enjoy rebuilding something that has no purpose. I should be throwing big money at stuff I need even less, for something I won't use that often.
2. Brilliant advice! Please help me decide what car and parts you want me to have. I clearly am not qualified to make decisions for me.
3. Very well crafted and intelligent response. I will definitely take you up on that when I get a boat.
4. If you think THIS is stupid, wait till you see what's next.
As someone who's present plan is to rebuild and install a 4 speed Saginaw (because I found it cheap) I'll go with #4.
I'd love to have a Super T10 however I suspect I'd need to regear my rebuilt differential, that isn't in the plans at the moment.
Well if I had no choice and how much I love corvettes then the 4 speed would have to do and would hope my rear gear is like a 336 and had enough torque to pull it .
Well if I had no choice and how much I love corvettes then the 4 speed would have to do and would hope my rear gear is like a 336 and had enough torque to pull it .
And this leads us to #4. I'm currently running a 3.70/ stock L82 350. My plan is to put a high compression bored 396 ('cause it's what I've got right now) and a lightweight flywheel.
And this leads us to #4. I'm currently running a 3.70/ stock L82 350. My plan is to put a high compression bored 396 ('cause it's what I've got right now) and a lightweight flywheel.
As someone who's present plan is to rebuild and install a 4 speed Saginaw (because I found it cheap) I'll go with #4.
I'd love to have a Super T10 however I suspect I'd need to regear my rebuilt differential, that isn't in the plans at the moment.
If you want to know the truth, I would have done the same thing if this car had come with a Saginaw. Blow it up, fix, repeat.
Don Elliot's T10 video is awesome as well! Some great info...you can never have too much information.
Made a quick tool to install the side cover seals:
Here's the idea. Not too complicated. I hate putting these seals in, I used to tear one up about every time.
And, there you have it:
Ground flats on the first gear bushing for oil flow:
Torque lock sliders from The Gear Box:
Billet mid plate (wasn't able to find a steel one) with vent holes drilled and sealed bearing installed:
Packing needled bearings in the counter gear. Dan Elliot recommends Vaseline to pack these so it breaks down instead of causing the oil flow to be clogged up:
All the stuff together:
Money shot:
Everything seems to work..turns quieter and much smoother than before. Some things to note, I had to run the thicker thrust washer on the reverse idler gear in the tail shaft end or it was going to hit 1st gear. Also, had to run two gaskets on the aftermarket front bearing retainer or it bound the transmission up. Besides that, everything went pretty well. Next up, replacing the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel.
Let's talk about Super T10s
and parts very reasonable , and video’s excellent.
