Greetz All,

As I plan to yank off the body off of the frame of my 1969, I contemplate what I could do… while I’m at it.

I suppose brake lines and fuel lines are worth looking into. POR-15 the frame

What do you folks reckon I do while I’m at it.

MTIADC3

 

Full immersion electrochemical strip of the frame to get the rust out of the inner rails. Paint with a top quality urethane. Rustproof the internals.

Dimensionally check the frame with a tram gauge.

All new rubber bushings. No poly.

Electrochemically strip or sandblast all suspension pieces. Paint with a top quality urethane.

All new Moog ball joints and tie rod ends. New Moog front springs.

Use a set of C2 body mount bushings and toss the aluminum pucks.

Electrochemically strip all nuts, bolts, washers and zinc plate.

(we’re always glad to spend other folk’s money!)

 

That’s what I’m talking about

 

Yep. If the brake and fuel lines have any flake-rust on them...replace them. I thought mine would last awhile longer after I lowered the body. A couple months later the fuel line had a pin-hole leak!

 

Completely strip and sandblast the frame....followed by powdercoating. He in PA, that cost me $600....well worth it, protected for life. All new tubing for brakes and fuel lines. Everything can be cleaned and restored. Its a body off restoration party.......the only way IMO.

 

Clean up and fix a few welds? Reinforce areas?
i would not por15 after all that.
invest in the largest ultrasonic cleaner for rehabbing parts.
it is UNREAL how well evaporust does in an ultrasonic cleaner..amazing.

 

Get a good set of thread chasers and clean every threaded part on the frame (after painting/powder coating).
You will save yourself a lot of trouble and aggravation.
Don't hesitate to replace those fuel lines and brake lines. You'll never have a better opportunity, plus they aren't that expensive.
When I had my body hanging from my garage joists, I put DEI heatsheild on the underside of the whole body.
What ever you do, it'll be well worth it and way easier with the open access.
Good luck

 

good advice from people
I like the welding and stiffening idea.

nice to be able to have access

 

Don't forget to rebuild the trailing arms and the diff!
You know while they are off.
I'm glad to spend your money.

 

I'm doing this right now, and have been spending a lot of time welding on the frame. Cut out rotted end rails, welded in new ones, new end caps, then filled every hole on the frame, and smoothed and grinded it out. Replacing all fuel and brake lines. New fuel tank. Trailing arms and front suspension already redone. Sandblasting and powder coating next week, then time to put back together! Also I'm pulling that dent out the cross member, and have been reinforcing the sway bar mounts! You'll find plenty to do , and plenty to spend money on!! lol

 

A excel spreadsheet is your friend and a must have for tracking material needed and to control cost. PM me your email and I will sent you one I have used on a few frame offs. Your biggest cost savings will be how much labor you do yourself vice outsourcing stuff. Once the body and frame are in two separate places project creep can spiral out of control if you are not careful.

Let's talk hardware, no amount of DIY labor or cleaning is going to make 50 year old hardware look new so you are better off to just replace it with new like items. Some items you will have to reuse but those are few in numbers. Old hardware just looks like crap against new freshly restored components.

The below frame was sand blasted (outsourced @ $150) and I painted it with PPG DP90LF in my side yard while hanging from an engine hoist.

 

I went through this with my 78. If you have access to a welder (and can weld, or have a buddy that can weld). I would suggest spending the time and finishing up the welds on the frame (they are stitch welded from the factory). Also, the lower mounts for the front A-Arms is a very typical area for separation as these cars age/wear. I would reinforce and add to the welds that attach these to the frame. Good welding and bracing locations are noted in the Chevy Power Book. They detail making the chassis ready for SCCA competition.

Agreed on replacing the hardware if you are not going for correctness. I replaced much of my hardware with new grade 8 fasteners and stainless where the stress would allow.

Definitely rebuild the trailing arms as it will never be easier to get the bolt out than when the body is off the frame. NOTE THE DIRECTION THE BOLT IS INSERTED. If you put it in backwards when the body is off, there will not be enough room to pull the bolt out of the hole when the body is back on!

I had the frame and a whole bunch of parts blasted and powdercoated. It was economical (9 yrs ago cost me $700 for frame and 40 other pieces) and if you get an oil leak or something else, you can bring the frame back to brand new with just a simple clean and wipe.

I also welded some nuts to the frame where the ground straps attached. It allowed me to use threaded bolts to attach the ground straps instead of just the sheet metal type screws so you never have to worry about stripping them out. Added one to the motor mount as well for the engine ground strap.

Absolutely replace the fuel and brake lines. Stainless if you are not going for correctness.

If you have a 4-speed and non-removable cross member, I would suggest making the cross member removable. Several approaches here. I went with the plates a member had designed. Good info on doing this if you search.

Just another minor tip. When you lift the body, count and zip tie the body shims from each mount and label them. You will thank yourself later when you (finally) get to re-assembly.

I replaced a bunch of fasteners with stainless ARP (mainly for looks) fasteners. A site like www.allensfasteners.com is very helpful as they will sell you individual bolts at the desired finish and grade.

Good Luck. It's a big but rewarding job. My 78 will be 45 years old on June 28th and it's in better shape than me

 

This is a slippery slope. It really depends on what you want to do, restoration or restomod and how much of a restomod. I needed to rebuild my trailing arms, steering components, motor refresh and noticed my doors sagging a bit. I expected to find a lot of unknown issues and as it came apart, I realized it need pretty much everything.

I took the body off the frame six years ago, I’ve pretty much gone over everything twice and I am still a year out of completion (including paint)
I have a very long list but it’s a hobby and I have a job in order to afford it and a wife that supports it.

It’s a great list from the forum members. If the fuel tank hasn’t been replaced, it’s a pretty cost affective item to do while it’s easier to get at. If you are not rebuilding the motor and trans, it’s a good time to re-gasket and re-seal and you could pull them right out if you want even more access.

Trailing arms
Differential seal and cover gasket or full refresh if needed
U-Joints
Fuel tank
Fuel and brake lines
Front end rebuild and all new rubber components (A-Arms and Anti-Sway bar mounts)
Shocks (and springs if needed)
O-Ring caliper pistons and seals
Body mounts and shims
Bumper and bracket bolt kits (Cost affective)
I have a very extensive list but it’s too big to post Hahaha

Cheers,
Richard

 

If you're not going to restore the rolling chassis front to rear there is no point or value in pulling the body off.

 

 

Suspension upgrades! It'll never be easier. And a new fuel tank, that is EFI ready with new fuel lines and an in-tank pump.

The places to reinforce the frame are called out in the Corvette section of the Chevy Power Book, which is hosted under Tech Tips on the Duntov site:
https://www.duntovmotors.com/

I think @reno stallion had a thread showing how he added the gussets.

 

FWIW, I wish I had changed the transmission support from fixed to removable.

 

I did all the above 35 years ago and this is what it looks like today.

 

Gentlemen - thank you all for your tremendous input.

As per usual, I will be documenting my progress here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...wakens-27.html



How are you getting that dent out ?? It is bothering me as well

 

There’s a thread called free dent removal tool, or something close to that, where people lend out a tool that gets that dent out. I believe it’s in the general section. If not that, you could buy the tool that’s made to remove that dent.