I want to rebuild my engine because it feels a little tired. I have three options. The engine shop I would deal with is very reputable.

1) Rebuild numbers matching engine to stock - $2700
2) Rebuild numbers matching engine to 300 hp, 400 tq - $3500
3) Buy a new 350 HO crate engine and keep original in storage, 330 hp, 3?0 tq - $3400 + intake, carb, distributer, etc. (possible discount through sister in law who works at GM)

I will probably take the car to the track a few times, but it will mostly be a cruiser/DD with the odd 2000 km road trip. Numbers matching is important to me, because of the originality and possible higher resale value (if I can find a 69 BB convertable with sidepipes). If I soup up the numbers matching engine, using the original block, heads, etc, will it still be considered numbers matching?

Thanks

 

The choice depends on what YOU want. I had that same choice last year and decided to go with a new motor and store the numbers matching one. I am very pleased with my choice (ZZ4) and the price was right (~$3000). The original motor needs a rebuild but I have no immediate plans to do so because it is only going to sit anyway.

As far as modifying you numbers matching motor...I don't think you will have any issues claiming it is still "numbers matching as long as you use the original block and tranny. I would also save the original intake, carb, etc. so you can advertise them as "original". Again, I am no NCRS guy but there are some on here so hopefully they will chim in. :thumbs:

 

Here's the deal:

If you rebuild your numbers-matching engine, then throw a rod or something, no more numbers-matching car.

If you buy a crate motor and store the original engine, no worries.

Bottom line: you only have one numbers-matching engine, but potentially a warehouse full of crate motors :cheers:

 

Yeah, I know I have to decide. :confused:

I should mention the prices are in Canadian. I guess what I am looking for is some similar decisions people have made, just like you posted, thanks.

Obviously the gas mileage will suffer with the higher power, but will it be less reliable, and will I run into any other unforseen problems, ie overheating, breaking drivetrain parts, etc.

Speeding tickets are a given, no matter what the power is.

:reddevil

 

If I had to do it over again, I'd buy a bored/stroked/balanced 383 'kit' (seasoned and prepped/clearanced block, crank, rods, pistons, rings, balancer and flywheel) for around $999 and add my heads, cam/lifters, intake, carb, etc. to it. Numerous rebuilders advertise in Chevy High Performance, Hot Rod, Car Craft, Super Chevy, etc. A few worth mentioning include:

Hyetech Performance (626) 855-1154
383 2-bolt Cast Pistons $995
383 2-bolt Forged $1099

Larry's Performance Shop (323) 722-8865
(fully prep'd block, magged, powerhoned, brass freeze plugs, cam bearings, pistons, recon'd crank&rods, MI 77 bearings, moly rings, perf cam/lifters, Fel-Pro gaskets, High vol Oil pump, double roller timing chain, parts balanced).
You'd need the flywhee and balancer also.
383 2-bolt Cast $995
383 2-bolt Cast $1099

Original engine would go on a stand covered in plastic in the corner of the garage for sale with the car when/if I ever parted with the car to ensure 'numbers matching' status.

 

Keeping the original engine is a very noble idea, but one I soon let go. There is no way I would ever go back to stock.

 

When I went to the ZZ4 there were no unforeseen issues. Everything went with my existing setup. Yes, the increased torque MAY be a small burden if your suspension and rear end are not up to par so you may want to check all that out first so you can budget the cost for repair and/or replacement of those items into you budget. My new engine gets about ~12-15MPG and is VERY reliable, more so than my DD I think! :lol:

If you go with something that has aluminum heads BE SURE TO GET GOOD TEMP SENSORS! I had to switch mine along with the guage in order to get accurate readings.

BTW - those prices in CDN don't sound too bad. ;)

 

The 'path' I actually chose was to forget numbers matching and replace the heads with good aftermarket iron heads. I used my L48 block, crank and rods and added/performed the following:

Block cleaned and bored .020" over
DART Iron Eagle Heads (180cc intake runner, 72cc chambers)
Polished the crankshaft (turned .020 under)
Verified trueness on the Connecting Rods
Lars-rebuilt Q-jet (my qjet)
K&N Air Filter & Reconditioned dual-snorkel ram air cleaner
Crane Energizer Cam-272H & Lifters (emissions legal grind)
Edelbrock EGR Performer intake (3701)
180degree thermostat (Local autoparts)
ALL new Vacuum Hoses/systems (Dr Rebuild)
Accel Performance Replacement HEI distrib
Aftermarket Milodon oil pan
Cloyes True Roller Timing Chain
Federal Mogul Flat-top hypereutectic pistons w/valve reliefs
Hastings Moly Rings
Clevite/M 77 bearings
Mellings High Vol Oil Pump
Summit hardened pushrods, 1.5 stamped rockers and grooved pivot *****
Hedman Jet-Hot coated headers (EGR 68301)
2.5" Custom Bent True Dual exhaust (no Cat) and Dynomax Super Turbos
Mr Gasket Copper Header flange and collector gaskets
Fel-Pro Engine Gaskets

To accomodate my new-found performance, I beefed up the balance of the drivetrain with:

New Modine radiator and hoses (also new radiator support from Zip)
fresh 700R4 transmission w/ 1800stall converter (Bow-Tie Overdrives)
shortened/rebuilt driveshaft (Precision Shaft Technology)
new, blueprinted differential with 3.54 Spicer gears (e-bay and Alan's Gear Works)
rebuilt half-shafts (VanSteel)
new poly strut rods (VB&P)
rebuilt rear bearing assemblies/trailing arms (VanSteel)
sleeved rear brake calipers & pads (VB&P)
New front/rear Park Brake Cables (Zip)
New stainless park brake hardware (VB&P)

This isn't the sexiest engine to look at. To be honest, the only give-aways that the engine may have been 'altered' are the K&N sticker on the exterior of the air cleaner, the Edelbrock intake, Chrome Chevrolet valve covers, Jet-Hot coated headers, true duals or the EGR block-off plate. Oh, and perhaps the improved 'road manners' :thumbs: :steering: :thumbs:

PS: I initially gave up the anemic 624 heads for a set of 882's when I performed the rebuild in 1999. I put the 882's on the shelf in 2002 when I swapped in the DART heads, headers, carb rebuild and duals. The engine block is still 'numbers matching' although it has significant power adding changes and I no longer consider it an L48... :smash: :smash: :smash:

 

The guys present sound information but as you state "Numbers matching is important to me, because of the originality and possible higher resale value."

Work to keep it original, buy the second motor and play but preserve that which you value.

In terms of an NCRS perspective, if you were to remove the motor, rebuild internally while leaving the exterior stock...it would qualify for both Bowtie and Top flight judging. Well, the fact of the matter is that any corvette qualfies for top flight judging. Now, whether you accomplish a first, second flight is another matter and depends on the degree of deviation from original. In a top flight category, your interior exterior and chassis would probably do fine but then expect deductions for motor rebuilds that are obvious. When you do your operations check...and the motor sounds like a big block...while most judges would make the observation that a 78 L48 didn't sound like that nor did an L82.

 

If it were me, and it's not, I'd drop the ZZ4 or other crate in and bag-n-tag the L82 for the next owner.

This is from a guy who has so far busted his butt to keep his as stock as possible.

 

I'm with Joe,

I'm still covered under smog laws here in CA... effectively preventing me from dropping in a ZZ4. My L-48 is perfect and it'll be under the hood for a few more years. Then it's going on a pallet with shrink wrap. :yesnod:

 

I definately get a crate motor, better power, new parts and keeps car where it can be returned to way it came from factory. Also you can have a spare in case you kill your driver motor.