Hello, is there any write ups on how to build a super 10 bolt diff?

 

Do you know what a super 10 is? Just curious since I am the guy who came up with it and named it yet others have copied and cheapened it but still sold it for market.

 

i have read its a modified version strengthened diff. I am located in Australia so it will cost me a fortune in shipping/taxes back and forth with todays prices to send one to the U.S.A to rebuild. I would like to rebuild my diff so it can handle 400-500hp range

 

I don't know specifically what a Super 10 bolt is, but I have 30 spline inner/outer axles, 1350 billet yoke, REM polished internals, indexed billet caps on both sides, 1480 outer axles and other internal tricks. I like to think I have gone as far as you can go with a 10 bolt, outside of one of the super expensive Mark Williams billet posi cases. Tough to build one yourself as Gary would attest. I stayed 10 bolt since I wanted to use 3.08 gears. Parts are from Tom's Differentials. I am at a little over 650 horsepower. So far so good!

 

A lot depends on how you're going to use the 400-500hp.

Keep in mind, nothing is bulletproof. If you are sold that bill of goods, good luck. Guys have been blowing up vette diff's since 1963 with under 350hp. Shock loading breaks parts. Drag race use, you need the most you can get. High power in street use, no hard, high RPM launches, Automatic, street tires, is one thing. High power, sticky tires, and drag racing a car designed as a road car can be done, but it will cost a lot. I have blueprinted, super 10 and 12's in Oz. The differential is just one piece of the total equation once you drop in an engine that in some cases is 2-3x what the car was designed for. You also need outer axles, stiff springs, shock, frame gusset, solid mounts, and a lot of money.

The 1480 axles Bill has are better suited for harder launches than the 1350 axles. Toms is the only 1480 axle for a Corvette. The others use 1350. Mark Williams 30 spline 1350 yoke axles and Tom's 1480 are the best. Tom's has better pricing as anyone can compare online. There are currently knockoff's on the market today that are just junk. I have some at my shop and even I was surprised at what I found with them.

I used to go into more detail on my various builds until others started copying them and clipping people in the process. For example, a RH steel cap is not needed. It does nothing for the right-hand side that the stock cap does, only takes money out of the customer's pocket. Left yes, right hand no.

I came up with the super 10 build many years ago and was off this forum for years. During that time others copied the name, sold guys knockoffs - cutting a lot of corners inside, and over time the truth came out once pictures started showing up online. I started getting calls about the knockoffs failing in 10 and 12 bolt form. Some of those guys are members here in fact, some are not. Ever put down a 50% deposit and never hear from your guy for months or a year? Never get a return phone call or email?Have 3rd parties speak for them?

It's up to anyone thinking of custom work to do their homework. Learn about what you want, understand the differences, and know who is telling the truth and who is not. There are not a lot of us left, and among that group, even less that are honest. There are many diff shops around that can build 99% of the differentials out there, but the custom vette stuff is unique and a small window of opportunity.

There is diff shop selling 12 bolts now online, they called me to ask how to build them a few years ago. They had no clue on what to do, now they're experts. right. Some of the diff's have failed-why? - look at the spiders & clutches used, look at the axle designs and for procedures not done that should be included to help the diff live. To the untrained eye they look impressive, to those who have built these for years you can see right through them. Unfortunately, the customer pays since many times they are price shopping instead of again learning as much as they can first.

There is a shop in OZ that wanted this information and broke their word on an agreement they presented to me.

Those are just some of the reasons I know longer write procedures with all the details in it beyond just axles and gears. I wrote a detailed procedure many years ago that is still out there today. It should actually be revised and think it was posted by a club in Oz. Maybe you have seen it? it is not a super 10 procedure though.

I am not soliciting anything here or "outing" anyone, just informing you of some of what I've seen for years. This is something you don't learn at trade school, tech college or even at most corvette shops and it takes time. It is better if you are more machinist than auto mechanic, but it is a marriage of the two.

I hope you understand and I wish you the best.

 

I did not realize there is so much controversy rebuilding a good diff! I have a spare 74 diff which i want to rebuild when i put my new motor in. The motor will be in the approx 400 - 500hp range with a T400 Auto and 2800 stall. Car will only be driven on the street with radials and no drag use. I do want to be able to put my foot down WOT while car is moving without the fear something is going to get chewed up at the rear end. I know nothing is bullet proof but would like to build something that is half decent in that power range and for my use. A few people have told me a standard rebuild will be fine with new gears,spiders,inner axles and polished and tuned posi with steel clutches?

 

just forum search GTR's post , he shares all kinds of info on here , be prepared to search through days of his post and pictures but be patient because a lot of the answers are in there , I thought I was pretty decent but after seeing all his pictures and post's he takes it two levels higher , deburs all the teeth of all the gears not just ring and pinion , so much to it that it will make my next rebuild better

 

Gary has rebuilt my steering box, trailing arms and rear end for my 78. What I, and many other folks on the forums will tell you is that you won't deal with a more honest and capable guy/vendor. I get that shipping from Oz is very expensive, but sometimes we allow ourselves to be boxed in by what we have and not look at other options. I understand that you HAVE a 74 rear end, but have you called any used vette parts vendors here in the US? Might actually be cheaper to buy one stateside and have it sent to Gary. That way you only pay the freight one-way and can offset the purchase by selling the 74 you have.

I'm not affiliated with Gary in any way and don't know if he would ship internationally, but I do know if you want a quality job, it would be worth exploring options to see how to make that possible.

 

Maybe locate a rearend ALREADY in the USA to save just a bit ?