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Now, I’m know mechanic per say,But have worked on my personal cars over the years,I’m 62,but why would a shop on purpose cut my lines coming from the radiator a inch below the bend or elbow,and then putting it back together with a short piece of rubber hose,and guess what once the fluid gets hot it streams out,so,cut a perfectly good hard tubing line,probably the original lines,and call that fixing it,thank goodness I already filed a complaint with BBB,if I do a job,my dad taught me to do it right,this is sorry workmanship,and the fact they tried to charge me an outrageous amount.all I can say is they screwed with the wrong guy,luckily I took lots of pictures,so have these lines on my iPad like they say picture is worth gold,So,let’s see if he wants to go to court,that way I can sue him for more than I paid him.
I certainly do not know the installation for a later C3, but in '72, the automatic cooler lines had rubber hoses connecting the main line to the cooler's elbows. The connections were at the base and sides of the radiator. Are you describing something different?
The stock inlet and outlet are as @67:72 shows. Very short. But they do have a lip on them to help with the seal. If they shop cut that off, they should own up to it.
If that's intact, perhaps you just need a piece of hose, and new hose clamps.
Mine didn’t on a 1981,it had no rubber pieces before I took it to the shop,it was a hard tubing line from tranny to radiator,and if you look at original cooling lines for 1981-1982,it clearly shows there is no rubber piece no where,I can tell also where they took pliers or vice grips to remove from radiator because I can see where they rounded the head trying to get it off,so they cut them,and I’m assuming didn’t think I would recognize just sitting for 3 months,and a puddle of transmission fluid the size of a basketball,and I bet when I pull the rubber lines off,I want see no kind of flared lip on the hard lines like ya are describing,but I do know they are hard to get to,but if you do something do it right or don’t do it at all,oh and charging me $75.00 an hour. Are you shitting me.
This is a before picture,and actually I was taking a picture of my headers I had just put on. But unless my eyes are deceiving me,If u look toward the front,you can see a small glimpse of the lines running to the radiator,clearly no rubber lines.
Been to several sites,I tried to post the pictures on here,but sorry don’t know how to post them on here from a different site. But top flight automotive clearly shows a solid line with NO rubber pieces,looks as if it was 1981-1982 years,and understand a flared lip on the lines to seal it,but they just cut a straight line and put a 2 inch rubber hose on it so when it gets good and hot,I’m sure with the pressure it pisses out,so it wouldn’t take long and that would be a good way to burn up my tranny,which didn’t leak before,and runs and shifts great.
On my 77 when I put headers on the transmission lines were too close to the headers. I had to cut them near the transmission and use a rubber hose to try and make them work. I always had trouble with them leaking. I recently put on braided hoses and AN fittings and run them up along the fender. It is all good now.
My 82 has rubber lines like in the earlier picture, but the radiator had been changed before I got it. When I replaced the rubber hoses I used two band clamps on each connection and they are fine. One of the compression fittings on the radiator is a little damp but thats another story.... I don't know about others but my engine moves around a little when idling and I'm sure when I get on it.... I always thought the rubber lines were there to allow this without leaks forming in hard lines... I did find replacement lines for an 82/700R4 and they appear to be solid. Bottom line, put some better clamps on it, make sure the rubber is the right size and be done with it... Why did you take it in and why did they have to mess with the cooling lines?
I you expand the picture you will see threaded connections on the left
They pulled the engine to put a mild cam in it,so not sure why they were messing with them,I already had the hood off,and had already replaced the heads,intake and carburetor,I would think they could of pulled the engine with them in place,but I think they were going to try and pull the radiator,and support,and put cam in that way,but I think they couldn’t figure out how to do that,because I did notice some of my original support bolts on top,that I guess they threw them away,oh,and replaced them with different lengths bolts,and one or two of them were zinc bolts,and two other bolts were rusted like they picked them off the floor,I’ve already filed a complaint with BBB,which I doubt they are even a member of,but if not will take them to court,they shouldn’t even be in business.
I'd be shocked if they tried to pull the engine with the radiator installed. It takes 10 minutes to pull the radiator once the hood has been removed. If they didn't pull the engine, I think you need to pull the radiator to get clearance for the camshaft.
If you can get them to own up to their mistake, great! If not, spend the $75- on a set of fuel-line wrenches and some new hoses, and fix it yourself. It will take far less time, and money, than any other solution.
Three phrases come to mind:
If you sue somebody, watch out for karma.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
Bad mechanics know all the shortcuts to a repair. (good or bad)
For what it's worth. When you buy a aftermarket remote transmission cooler to install in front of your Rad, it comes with a small cooler, several mounting washers, zip-ties, clamps and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . rubber hose.
Nothing wrong with rubber lines as long as they are specific for ATF. Not vacuum or fuel hose.
When you buy a aftermarket remote transmission cooler to install in front of your Rad, it comes with a small cooler, several mounting washers, zip-ties, clamps and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . rubber hose.
Nothing wrong with rubber lines as long as they are specific for ATF. Not vacuum or fuel hose.
This is correct...it is imperative that you have the Transmission Cooler Hose........and the full round style clamps like the Oeticker crimp style or Fuel Injection clamps.......worm clamps chew into the hose, damaging it.....leading to cycle failure....
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
Bad mechanics know all the shortcuts to a repair. (good or bad)
For what it's worth. When you buy a aftermarket remote transmission cooler to install in front of your Rad, it comes with a small cooler, several mounting washers, zip-ties, clamps and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . rubber hose.
Nothing wrong with rubber lines as long as they are specific for ATF. Not vacuum or fuel hose.
You got that right! And he hasn't even found the leak at the timing chain cover yet...
Transmission lines
