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Thanks Jebby,but don’t have a aftermarket cooler in front of radiator,the lines hook straight to the radiator,and I haven’t looked at the hose carefully yet,but I’m pretty sure they are fuel rubber hose,and definitely has worm clamps on both ends,and pretty sure not even the correct size hose for the lines,is why it’s pouring fluid,not to mention the pressure coming through,and the guy was trying to charge $5,700.00 for labor to put cam in it,I told him he was CRAZY,and even then I gave him $3,800.00,which I wouldn’t mind if I didn’t have to fix is stuff,but I was taught if you do something Do it right.the fact is yea,I will fix it Correctly.but,if they do that to me,how many others are they shitting.ALOT.I hate when people try and take advantage of people.
Thanks Jebby,but don’t have a aftermarket cooler in front of radiator,the lines hook straight to the radiator,and I haven’t looked at the hose carefully yet,but I’m pretty sure they are fuel rubber hose,and definitely has worm clamps on both ends,and pretty sure not even the correct size hose for the lines,is why it’s pouring fluid,not to mention the pressure coming through,and the guy was trying to charge $5,700.00 for labor to put cam in it,I told him he was CRAZY,and even then I gave him $3,800.00,which I wouldn’t mind if I didn’t have to fix is stuff,but I was taught if you do something Do it right.the fact is yea,I will fix it Correctly.but,if they do that to me,how many others are they shitting.ALOT.I hate when people try and take advantage of people.
Wow....$5700 to install a cam in a Vette.....I get about $1500 to $1750 for that job....
Is that pulling the engine,and I already had hood removed and all the smog parts off,and I replaced everything new from the heads up already,which without my consent,they tore the whole engine apart pistons and all,and they broke my bracket off of the oil dip stick that bolts to the block,so it was just loose,then after about 10 miles,it started popping and I moved the distributor cap freely,they didn’t even tighten the lock down bolt on it after setting the timing,the bracket for the AC compressor black round rod goes to intake,didn’t even have it hooked up,even though when I took it to them I had it bolted up.the bolt for the alternator that has treaded,they had a smaller bolt going all the way through it with a nut,they took some of my bolts off my radiator support,I guess threw the original bolts away,and replaced them with different length and different color bolts.I had brand new headers,that I had just had ceramic coated from Jet Hot,$400 and while they were hot,shooting oil all over them,now they have oil spots covering them,and that’s a start,and these are things I can see,so worries me things I can’t see.and Jebby,I sure would love to get that estimate in writing if possible.
I have an '81 and the 1981 factory assembly manual. It was hard lines to the radiator then rubber to the radiator connections as shown. If you plan on working on your car much, I highly recommend the factory service manual and the AIM manual.
Ok,and I have the shop manual,and I know the radiator was replaced I think in 1996 from a previous owner,and yes he kept a diary of it,so guessing when he replaced it he put solid lines all the way,but never the less it leaking,and I prefer to do it correctly,thanks everyone.
I've said it before and will say it again, if you can't wrench on your own car than buying a 40 plus year old used Chevy is going to come with challenges. The vast majority of automotive repair shops have no desire to work on your car, don't know how to work on your car and won't go the extra steps to figure out how to work on your car. There is no money to be made working on your car even at a $75-$110 labor rate, it ties up a bay and mechanic that can produce more income pushing modern day cars in & out of that bay.
