Quick questions about setting carb float level
Drove the car for the 1st time after my build and noticed the sight window on my Holley carb was low/empty. I went to adjust the float levels and ran into a couple issues.
1) to see where the level is, I disconnected the coil and cranked the engine for 10 sec, stopped, then another 10 sec. If the float levels are correct, the fuel wouldn't be able to go above the set level correct? Meaning whether I crank for 10 sec or 10 min, it shouldn't make a difference? I'm trying to determine if I over corrected the float levels too high, or if constant cranking will ultimately fill the bowls no matter what
2) assuming I over corrected in step 1, when I went to tighten the top lock screw, it never locked anything. Meaning the screw was tight, but the adjustment nut/screw could still spin freely as a pair for another turn or 2 down, then it would lock. Does this mean I just had the float level way too high?
3) I was reading afterfire (popping out the exhaust) could be caused by a lean condition. It would happen to me if I let off the gas. Could this have been because my bowls were empty causing a lean condition?
Thanks for any help!
Drove the car for the 1st time after my build and noticed the sight window on my Holley carb was low/empty. I went to adjust the float levels and ran into a couple issues.
1) to see where the level is, I disconnected the coil and cranked the engine for 10 sec, stopped, then another 10 sec. If the float levels are correct, the fuel wouldn't be able to go above the set level correct? Meaning whether I crank for 10 sec or 10 min, it shouldn't make a difference? I'm trying to determine if I over corrected the float levels too high, or if constant cranking will ultimately fill the bowls no matter what
Once the floats shut off the needle, it will not fill any further. Float levels need to be checked with the engine running......the idle circuit pulls a small amount of fuel and the floats need to bet set to account for that....setting the float static without engine running will result in a float level that is a tad too low. If the float level is way too high it may seem like it is too low as you cannot see the "sight line" of the fuel......
2) assuming I over corrected in step 1, when I went to tighten the top lock screw, it never locked anything. Meaning the screw was tight, but the adjustment nut/screw could still spin freely as a pair for another turn or 2 down, then it would lock. Does this mean I just had the float level way too high?
Yep, the "double D" in the float needle/seat assembly is sticking out of the top of the adjusting nut.....the screw up top is tightened right down on it. Your float level is at least 3/8" too high.
3) I was reading afterfire (popping out the exhaust) could be caused by a lean condition. It would happen to me if I let off the gas. Could this have been because my bowls were empty causing a lean condition?
It is possible but unlikely...most exhaust popping on deceleration is caused by either leaks in the exhaust or actually too rich of an idle screw mixture. Old Honda bikes had a valve in the carbs to let air past the baldes under decel so it would not pull fuel from the idle circuit......automotive carbs do not have this.
Thanks for any help!
Should both the front and rear sight windows both be the same height? Middle of the glass?
Should both the front and rear sight windows both be the same height? Middle of the glass?
Middle of the sight glass is the order of the day. A side note: I adjust my non sight glass carbs with the sight screw out while running too....the rag wrapped around the intake and carb on that side.......done it a thousand times this way with never any fear of fire.....a rag has to have a LOT of fuel on it for it to turn into a wick......for my own non-sight glass Holley HP.....I have stainless 5/16 hex head screws and the hex is set in a nut driver so one can screw the sight plug in very quickly......I think this is where people get freaked out is the flat head Holley sight plug is not easy to put in quickly......and they fumble with it while gas is dripping out.......a little anxiety happens to average dude and they swear to never do it again running......but....you have to.......especially if you have like a 632ci Big Chief single 4bbl that will drain a float bowl at idle in about 10 seconds LOL.
Once the floats are set...and your timing is spot on, then you can adjust the idle screws......adjust for highest vacuum on a vacuum gauge.
Jebby





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