Anything I should know? Tips, Tricks, Pitfalls? Changing due to leaking....

 

Jim Shea, GM Steering Guru
Created: 24JN2013
REPLACING A C2/C3 CORVETTE POWER STEERING CONTROL VALVE
The following is a link to an excellent video on replacing the 1963-1982 Corvette power
steering control valve.
Today, a great number of people rely on video presentations rather than the written
word. I think this is a great video. I would add the following three comments:
1. PICKLE FORK TOOL
The pickle fork is used to break the taper connection between the control valve and the
pitman arm. A pickle fork will usually cut and destroy the control valve rubber boot as it
wedges the two components apart. If you are replacing the entire valve with a new one
(such as in the video) it probably doesn't make a lot of difference. However, be aware
that the pickle fork can cause damage to rubber parts.
2. POWER STEERING FLUID
I always recommend that you refill the system with genuine GM power steering fluid.
GM #89020661 or AC Delco #89021182. It is the only fluid that is specifically
formulated to operate with the Saginaw power steering pump.
3. DEAIREATION (GETTING THE AIR OUT)
After tightening all the mechanical and hydraulic connections, fill the power steering
reservoir with fresh power steering fluid. Fill it to the "COLD" mark on the stick that is
part of the pump reservoir cap.
Now do NOT start the engine. Instead, rotate the steering wheel full lock to full lock
about 20 times. This will cause the assist cylinder to act as a pump and move power
steering fluid (and any air in the system) up through the power steering pump reservoir
allowing air to escape. Continue to refill the pump reservoir with fluid as large air
bubbles come to the surface and the fluid level drops.
If you start your engine before eliminating most of the air in the system, air will be
moved up through the pump itself where it will be whipped into a milky froth by the
pumping action of the power steering pump. This will result in millions of very tiny
bubbles, a fluid with milky color, a pump that makes a lot of noise, erratic power steering
assist, and the fluid may expand and flow back out of the pump reservoir. It will now
take a considerable amount of time to effectively eliminate those tiny bubbles and get the
power steering system to act properly.
With most of the air out of the system, you can now follow the procedure in the video
and balance the control valve.
JIML82@aol.com

 

I replaced my control valve, cylinder and hoses not long ago and didn't even need to re-center the valve - it was good out of the (Paragon) box. The only issue I had that I didn't see in any videos or instructions was the pittman arm stud spinning when I tried to tighten the nut. I had to put the slightest bit of pressure on the bottom of the valve with my floor jack to get enough tension on the stud for the nut to tighten. It's not difficult, just messy.

 

here are my learnings and pitfalls
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html

 

My Borgeson box hasn't leaked since it replaced my stock system. In that car, the power steering control valve is replaced by a Borgeson end link.

In my other car, my manual conversion hasn't leaked, either.

Best of luck to you! Hopefully the new valve was (re)built correctly.

 

I got some good insight from a guy I know that worked at a Corvette only shop near me that the NAPA units were pretty much the only ones not leaking. I went with that. I put it in last night... dry this morning. (Fingers Crossed)

 

Thanks for the great info. When I try that video I get an error and video does not play. Is it just me? Using Chrome browser.

 

Try this edited link.

 

perfect. thanks.