Hello everyone!
My name is Logan (20 y.o.) and I just joined this forum, although I have been scouring it for the last year since I bought my 1977 C3. It's a L48 Auto w/ A/C. I've done a bit of work on it over the last year including: refurbishing heads, new water pump, new intake, headers + side pipes, rebuilt the carb, rewired the spark plugs, and a lot of cleaning. I attached pictures of the day I bought it vs. now.

ANYWAYS...

Here's my question, since I got an Edlebrock 2101 Performer intake (deleted divorced choke), I need to install an electric choke. I already have the electric choke at home, but I am not quite experienced in the wiring world. I have read that people wire these up to the yellow wiper blade wire because it gets power when the ignition is keyed on, and it is fuse protected. Wouldn't this close the choke when you shut the car down even if it is hot? Meaning if I ran into the gas station with it off, motor is still hot when I turn it back on, would I have to wait for the choke to open again? Also, wouldn't that make the car run poorly if the choke is closed when it's hot?

Has anyone ever spliced a different way to their aftermarket electric choke?
I'm trying to figure out maybe a way to put it on a switch as well, making it a manual choke (obviously).

Thanks in advance!!

 

The electric part of the choke is only to speed up opening the choke. The choke uses a bi-metallic coil that unwinds when heated to open the choke. In principle it works the same way as a divorced choke coil. It won't close much, if at all during a 5 or 10 minute shut off. The motor will still be plenty hot.

 

Be aware that there is more to installing an electric choke than simply removing the hot air choke and slapping on the electric one. In order for the electric choke to function properly and to have full rotational "range," you have to remove the choke housing and plug the vacuum bleed orifice in the vacuum bleed transfer tube between the carb bowl and the choke housing. If this is not plugged, there will be cool air drawn into the choke housing from the vacuum bleed for the hot air system, which will cool the electric choke and cause improper operation. You also need to remove the cover gasket, and plug the hot air inlet fitting. Also note that most aftermarket electric choke conversions do not have the correct rotational operating range to go from fully closed to fully open, and most do not have the correct "timing" for proper operation. Slapping on an electric choke is not the cure-all easy swap that many people think it is... you may have some issues if you do not do things right with good quality parts and spend the time to do a very precise setup to make things operate correctly.

Lars

 

Thanks, Lars! I have plugged the lines and made sure I installed everything correctly. That's a good point about the operating range though, I will have to see what happens when she runs!

 

...You plugged the internal vacuum bleed hole in the housing inner wall..? Not just the outside inlet nipple..? If so, good job.

 

Of course!