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I have a baffling oil pressure situation with my 80. When the vehicle starts cold the oil pressure reads 35 to 40, I use 5/30 oil. Once its driven warm the pressure stays around 30. BUT stop at a light or stop sign the pressure gauge goes down to 0. Start driving and the pressure gauge goes back up to 30 again, stop and back to 0 again. It's been a constant problem. I have done oil flushes, replaced the sending unit twice, replaced the oil pressure gauge, dropped the pan and replaced the stock oil pump and pickup with a Melling high volume pump and pickup. To be safe I have also removed the valve covers to ensure oil is reaching the heads, it is, and I have no tapping lifters at idle or driving. Any ideas in this regard are welcome. Thanks and hope everyone enjoyed their Fathers Day.
When your engine is cold from sitting, 90% of the oil capacity is in the pan waiting to be pumped. After a warm-up, lots of oil remains in the block & heads.
I hope you set your pump screen about 3/8" off the bottom. And not at a angle that the screen will starve for oil. Too late now, but a gob of Silly Putty on the pickup screen then dry / test fit the pan w/o a gasket will verify the clearance.
When you had the valve covers off, was there excessive amounts of oil in the valvetrain area? Some head designs collect a awful lot of oil upstairs before releasing it through the drain holes. And that might be something to check. There is one drain on each end of the head. Make sure its not blocked by anything other than a head bolt.
Have you verified your PSI with a mechanical gauge?
There is a port on the top of the block just to the drivers side behind the distributor.
Has your engine been rebuilt?
Same results before and after the oil pump swap? I am also running a hv melling pump and pull 70 psi at cold idle on the stock gauge.
Hookup a quality oil pressure gauge under the hood and verify.......I don't trust any original Corvette gauges unless they are calibrated.....
Your oil pressure cold is somewhat low....so there is a chance that you have scrubbed some of the babbit.......
Hook the second gauge up.....if it still is low....you are in for set of bearings.
Thanks for all your resonses. The engine is a crate motor installed by the prior owner in 2002. It has 20000 miles on the engine, stock except for edelbrock carb and manifold with a set of headers. I will try going with a heavier oil, at least 10/40, and see if it makes any difference before I try more extensive ideas.
Thanks for all your resonses. The engine is a crate motor installed by the prior owner in 2002. It has 20000 miles on the engine, stock except for edelbrock carb and manifold with a set of headers. I will try going with a heavier oil, at least 10/40, and see if it makes any difference before I try more extensive ideas.
Oil is probably not going to fix it.......
If it were here in my shop, I would pull the pan and one or two rod caps.....and the front and rear main cap.......if you see copper...then there you have it. This is a tough pill to swallow for some but about 50% of the time you can slip new babitts/bearing in and roll with it......it is really not that hard to do......can be done in a few hours.......be careful though because if you restore bearing clearances your oil pressure be too high with an HV pump......I don't use them on most anything.
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all my chevies did that with a stock pump and 30 weight oil. The Winter number has no bearing on this issue, its a slinging property and not relevant to weight ....You should run an oil that has high ZDDP and zinc numbers and I would look for a 40 or 50 weight. I like Mobil 1 20W50 ITs High ZDDP and it fills in the worn bearing gaps/ worn oil rings in older engines and its pretty inexpensive at Walmart
Std Vol std press
Std Vol HI press
HI Vol std press
Hi Vol HI press.
Pressure is determined by bearing clearance and what spring is installed in the side of the pump.
Volume is determined by bearing clearance, plus diameter of pickup tube, but mostly the sizing of the gears in the pump. H.V. gears are 25% wider.