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The same advice as changing it. Unscrew the top fill port with the car raised and LEVEL. You should get no more than a dribble. If none comes out, fill at that port. You may need a hand pump (I bought one that mounts right on the jug).
The danger is when you change the fluid, If you can get the bottom drain port out, but not the fill port, you've now disabled your car, so unscrew the fill port first.
On a B&W Super T-10, the plugs are square-heads, so you need a 12-point wrench.
I’ve used the 10W60 shell supercar oil, drained after 2000 miles, no gold flakes and it looked new. Shifted excellent and fast behind the 6,500 rpm engine, fun to drive transmission for sure… and sold the trans to ZF Doc. He said it was perfect inside, just needed consumables, most of it ended up in a ZR1 in Germany.
Removed from a 1993 donor, black tag (meaning German manufactured) but helical cut gears as many 1993 had. Used it for autocross and a little bit of open track, removed it to install a new Tremec TKX Silver Sport kit.
I did have excessive wear on the clutch and flywheel especially for the low amount miles, but that’s mostly from aggressive starts with perhaps a little more torque than it may have been designed for.
But — After reading some of the horror stories, where I’m not sure what the real cause is, I would likely use syncromesh if I had to do it again.
I usually just remove the fill plug, put my finger in it and if I can feel the oil, it's good to go. but I am just an old guy who doesn't know any better than to be careful where you put your fingers....
I’ve used the 10W60 shell supercar oil, drained after 2000 miles, no gold flakes and it looked new. Shifted excellent and fast behind the 6,500 rpm engine, fun to drive transmission for sure… and sold the trans to ZF Doc. He said it was perfect inside, just needed consumables, most of it ended up in a ZR1 in Germany.
Removed from a 1993 donor, black tag (meaning German manufactured) but helical cut gears as many 1993 had. Used it for autocross and a little bit of open track, removed it to install a new Tremec TKX Silver Sport kit.
I did have excessive wear on the clutch and flywheel especially for the low amount miles, but that’s mostly from aggressive starts with perhaps a little more torque than it may have been designed for.
But — After reading some of the horror stories, where I’m not sure what the real cause is, I would likely use syncromesh if I had to do it again.
the transmissions used in a C3 use a 75W90 oil, definitely not a 10W60.