When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I dropped the differential. (Man, that thing is beefy.)
Now I’m trying to get the crossmember off. No matter how much I pound and pry, it won’t come off. The rubber looks in great shape but I want this off the have frame sandblasted and powdercoated.
I had good results using a long pry bar.
Come in from the wheel opening, Insert between the crossmember and frame and push down on the bar toward the ground.
Do no pull up on the bar because when the crossmember lets go you'll hit your paint.
I just did this on my car this week. To get the crossmember out was frustrating and I had to go to Harbor Freight to get a longer pry bar. I sprayed penetrant for a couple of days and it broke free. In hindsight I would have gotten a long pickle bar. I removed the cross member and diff as a unit and we all know how heavy these things are. The 4 bolts came out easily but they were also soaked with penetrant. I really became frustrated when trying to pull the 2 big bushings. I found that using a hammer drill really made the job easy. Just try not to scar the inside walls of the crossmember. Ordered new bushings but since I havent received them yet I am not sure how difficult to reinstall. Ill use a silicone lubricant to facilitate the install. The diff is being rebuilt and Ill reinstall everything in the next couple of weeks. From there the new halfshafts, Vansteel offset Tarms and coilovers along with Wilwood calipers.
I more or less did the same thing as bruiser. After spraying on penetrating oil for a couple of days, I loosened but didn’t remove the bolts holding it to the frame. I put on a gear puller (one side at a time), put tension on it and then just checked it periodically. I added tension each time I checked. Took a few days but wasn’t very hard.
I dented my crossmember beating on it with a BFH and a 3ft pry bar. Wish I hadn't done that. The hats were very rusted (it's a water trap) and they swell up and get stuck in the rubber cup. They need to slide past the rubber, and if they are crusty they can't slide.
If it is rusted badly enough it just won't come off.
I strongly suggest the rust penetrant method mentioned above, and a big gear puller to apply some pressure, and let it take a week if needed. I wish I had tried that. You have to eat the rust out for it to work.
Getting those bushings out is another PITA also.
Good luck!
I dropped the differential. (Man, that thing is beefy.)
Now I’m trying to get the crossmember off. No matter how much I pound and pry, it won’t come off. The rubber looks in great shape but I want this off the have frame sandblasted and powdercoated.
Any suggestions?
MTIADC3
I did mine with the diff already removed. Loosened the bolts but left them in just enough to catch the piece when it broke free. Sprayed PB blaster and WD40 on the bushings/hats and let it soak for about 15 minutes then it came loose fairly easily using a pickle fork.
Getting the bushings themselves out of the x-member so I could install new ones was a bit more difficult however. Here's what I did:
Go rent/borrow a two jaw gear puller from your local auto parts store and it will come right off. I tried a long pry bar and was scared it would slip and cause damage to my fender.
With my body off the frame, I placed a 2 foot long 6x6 on the crossmember and gave it a whack with a 20 lb sledge. I had some sandbags underneath and off it came.
With my body off the frame, I placed a 2 foot long 6x6 on the crossmember and gave it a whack with a 20 lb sledge. I had some sandbags underneath and off it came.
Ha. I was considering something similar. I like this solution
The 6x6 block should spread out the load and not dent the crossmember like I did.
Apparently the frame is thin enough (.120' mild steel) that a large hammer is all it takes to dent it.
That and PB Blaster should be enough.
Diff crossmember stuck !!
