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Just a quickie to run by you…
I got a little time between things to get under the car to look over what I have to do. Looking at the spring bolts that connect to the diff, they’ve got to come out and as the exhaust is fully welded I’m not sure how much drop I’ll get with removing the rear hangers. Will it be enough ?
Weighing my options… I hate the idea of cutting the pipes but theres straight sections where the crossmember is forward of the diff. Thinking if I absolutely have to cut the exhaust I can scribe a line down the pipe as a reference to align it back up, cut them where you see the blue tape and rewatch them after the job with stainless band clamps. Sound like a bad idea or is it a realistic solution ?
I'm no expert and I am going to have to drop mine soon as well. I wouldn't want to try to wrestle with the differential and crossmember with the exhaust anywhere near in the way. That stuff has been up there for 40ish years, I would give myself more room to work (but that's me. You do you!) I'm sure someone will be along soon to give you an experienced answer.
I'm no expert and I am going to have to drop mine soon as well. I wouldn't want to try to wrestle with the differential and crossmember with the exhaust anywhere near in the way. That stuff has been up there for 40ish years, I would give myself more room to work (but that's me. You do you!) I'm sure someone will be along soon to give you an experienced answer.
Fortunately the prior owners did a lot of work to the frame and suspension so theres a lot of new bolts and I don’t think I’ll have much trouble getting things to move. The exhaust though newer was fully welded from front to back so I can’t drop it so easily. Those bolts that hold the spring are going to be tough to get at and drop.
Nope, bolted to the manifolds and run thru the holes in the cross member all the way to the mufflers with all connections welded. Their even connected to each other under the leaf spring by weld. It a very clean job but they didn’t consider servicing anything when they did it.
thats why I’m thinking of cutting it as clean as I can manage where the pipes run straight so I can use stainless band clamps to reconnect.
Can anyone see fault with this idea ???
Yes your idea will work, that's how I have been joining pipes, but you will want to order the butt clamps, not the lap clamps that you have pictured.
Ok thanks. I just grabbed a general image showing “a band clamp”, I did see butt clamps available .
I had to replace the exhaust on my Jeep commander about 2 years back and used the band clamps for the first time. Haven’t had any issue with it since installation. Seems like an easy possibly better alternative to welding.
How about an opportunity for adding an x pipe and ss band clamps?
My goal here is to repair the blown rear, don’t want to go sideways on the project.
X-pipes though they do add a little more power they tend to smooth out that exhaust note taking away the music the cam makes.
Ouch ...welded in place, in one piece and thru the crossmember holes.
Sounds like the butt joint band clamps are your only option for service.
The next big question is where would you like them?
By the crossmember? or nearer the mufflers?
You will need a spot that is very round, and pretty straight for 6-8 inches.
We added hi-temp orange silicone bead inside to make sure they sealed the last time I used them.
Fortunately the prior owners did a lot of work to the frame and suspension so theres a lot of new bolts and I don’t think I’ll have much trouble getting things to move. The exhaust though newer was fully welded from front to back so I can’t drop it so easily. Those bolts that hold the spring are going to be tough to get at and drop.
When the muffler shop built my exhaust, they did the same thing. One solid piece on each side. Eventually I had to get to the gas tank. I took it back in to them and had them cut the pipes and put flanges so they can be removed more easily. I have used those flanges many times since then so I am really glad I had them do it. (I am not a welder) :-)
I had the same issue regarding the exhaust when I had to pull my diff in 2019. I cut the pipes with a sawzall and unbolted the mufflers from the hangers bolted to the frame. Used exhaust butt clamps to put it back together.
I had the same issue regarding the exhaust when I had to pull my diff in 2019. I cut the pipes with a sawzall and unbolted the mufflers from the hangers bolted to the frame. Used exhaust butt clamps to put it back together.
Thank you, this is exactly the direction I am now headed.
After much apprehension I took a straight edge and laid it across the pipes under the wide steel cross member just ahead of the diff and marked it with a grease pencil. That puts the cut below the crossmember and not fiberglass. It also falls in the middle of two 14” + sections of straight pipe. I wrapped it with a sheet of paper to trace it neatly around the pipe to follow for a clean cut with a sawsall. It went well and came out surprisingly clean. I then deburred the ends with a dremil.
The back half of the exhaust had been connected with a piece of bar stock welded to the pipes so it came off as one piece holding its angle perfectly. Reinstalling it will be a snap.
Note that even the tips were welded in place. Certainly easy to get at everything now.
Now I’m crossing my fingers that the rest comes apart ok.
FWIW..Just recently tore down my 69. I cut the pipes upstream of the holes through the frame. Made life TONS easier. That said...the exhaust on my car is bubba junk so don't care much about it. That said....a couple sleeves and it is back in business.
Pulling the diff, exhaust in the way
