The one I have looks the same only its black and cost me less than $20 from Harbor freight like ten years ago. I also got that mechanics stethoscope I spot hanging next to it from HF..

 

I should clarify that a
a 1-2 amp charger will only fully charge a battery thats in great working order to begin. Often you need more current with older batteries which often have buildup on the plates. In the golf cart world the better chargers actually have different profiles to charge the batteries more aggressively when they become resistant to accepting a full charge.


I have a couple smart chargers that use PWM to desulphate batteries and while they do help they are not always effective. In my experience it depends on the battery. Ive also used battery snakeoils and onboard pwm desulfators that stay connected at all times. The battery lasted a long time but I'm not certain if that was the reason.

Off topic a bit,
I spent the winter reading about chargers and batteries as I built a solar powered lithium golf cart for our seasonal campground which has never needed to be charged yet due to the roof panel being a 300w solar panel that charges at up to 7amps in the sun and keep the battery topped off at all times using an onboard MPPT boost charger. The available tech out there is amazing. For less than the cost of replacement batteries at sams club, I replaced over 300lbs in stock lead acid batteries with one DIY battery pack that weighs 80lbs and has a farther range of about 40 miles without any charging and a 10 year + lifespan. Lead acid can only be discharged safely to 50% capacity before damage to the battery starts occuring. Thats not the case with lifepo4 lithium its also much safer and environmentally friendly than the lithium polymer or NMC cells you read all the misleading exaggerated negative social media comments about.. (A gasoline vehicle is still statistically 3 times more likely to be involved in a fire than full EVs and hybrids are almost 6 times more likely to be involved in a fire per 100,000 made)

Ive got no plans to swap out from old school lead acid for my cars though. For my climate and use they are still the best option.

 

I have had very good results with Walmart batteries and CTEK chargers. Leave chargers on all the time. Battery in my 66 went 12 years- don't drive it much but still...

 

9/10 you've got a parasitic draw. Google "diagnosing parasitic draw"

Make sure your wiper override switch isn't on. That will give you a nearly half-amp parasitic draw in a '68

Here's a piece on batteries & charging that may help you. https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdv...eb2x&context=3