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I know there have been numerous threads where members have posted how they removed the front coils springs.
I am preparing to remove my front coil springs from the chassis.
I have searched threads for the different methods, but the threads are all long build threads and looking through page after page is taking a lot of time.
I’m thinking about using a piece of 1/2” or 3/8” threaded stock about 3’ long and using thick washers and nuts to compress the coil and then releasing the tension so the coil can be removed.
Is this the best method, or is there a better method.
If you have posted a thread covering this, please send me in the right direction.
The body is off and the frame is bare except for the front and rear suspension.
Thanks, Greg
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jul 18, 2023 at 02:33 PM.
I did mine with a bare frame using "all thread". I used double nuts and added some grease to the part of the thread where the nuts travel. It also helps if you have a ratchet wrench. Good luck and be careful. Jerry
Greg, I removed my coils for the first-time last week. Read everything I could find, bought 7/16-14 threaded rod, but discovered you don't need it at if the car is fully assembled. That said, I'm sure every situation is different. My car is all original 1978 with 20K miles. I have a hoist so it super easy to adjust height then use a floor jack to raise and lower the control arm. I had to remove both upper and lower control arms to change the bushings...car had been sitting past ~25 years so they were dry rotted. I sand blasted the springs painted and reinstalled springs without problem. I did use a chain for safety. I only unbolted the upper ball joint...did not have to change lower so left it bolted. Pushed the spring into the pocket, align the lower end and jacked under the lower controll arm until I could start the nut on the upper ball joint...one of the easiest things I've done.
Greg, I removed my coils for the first-time last week. Read everything I could find, bought 7/16-14 threaded rod, but discovered you don't need it at if the car is fully assembled. That said, I'm sure every situation is different. My car is all original 1978 with 20K miles. I have a hoist so it super easy to adjust height then use a floor jack to raise and lower the control arm. I had to remove both upper and lower control arms to change the bushings...car had been sitting past ~25 years so they were dry rotted. I sand blasted the springs painted and reinstalled springs without problem. I did use a chain for safety. I only unbolted the upper ball joint...did not have to change lower so left it bolted. Pushed the spring into the pocket, align the lower end and jacked under the lower controll arm until I could start the nut on the upper ball joint...one of the easiest things I've done.
Thanks you.
Is that a Factory Five Racing 33 Hot Rod sitting in your garage?
A rod coupling or barrel nut is a little easier than 2 individual nuts. Basically a long nut, available at hardware stores, electrical supply stores, or building supply stores. And do use a safety chain as mentioned above.
Thanks you.
Is that a Factory Five Racing 33 Hot Rod sitting in your garage?
Yes, good eye. Finished in 2018. All my other cars have either LS or Coyote engines; missing the performance and reliability relative to my C3 project. I know nothing about carburetors...at the moment Corvette not running.
Yes, good eye. Finished in 2018. All my other cars have either LS or Coyote engines; missing the performance and reliability relative to my C3 project. I know nothing about carburetors...at the moment Corvette not running.
Factory Five 33 Hot Rod - Lake St. Claire, MI
Very nice.
Mine was the best build experience ever.
If I keep my 73 when I finish it I plan to build a Jeep, if I sell the 73, I’ll build another Factory Five.
I would go with their new all steel body 33.
Thanks guys.
I’ve been busy with removing the rear suspension and differential.
We are heading out for another hiking trip up in the Sierras this week and then I’ll be home starting on the front.
I bought the 1/2” threaded rod, but I may just take a trip to Harbor Freight to look at the spring compressors.
My issue with them comes from many years ago when I had one fail on me while swapping springs in my Z28.
It scared the poop out of me and I haven’t trusted them since.
But I was much younger then and it may have been more operator error than tool failure.
I pulled the front caliper brackets, dust shields, and hubs.
I was surprised that when I removed the cotter pin the bearing/ hub nut was so loose I was able to remove it just using my finger tips.
The hub slid off and the outer bearing dropped out of the hub.
I was expecting to need a puller to remove the hubs.
Is this normal on these cars or was Bubba in there?
Both drivers and passengers sides were the same.
I want to check the front axles for wear.
What are the acceptable specs before the axles need replacing.
I pulled the front caliper brackets, dust shields, and hubs.
I was surprised that when I removed the cotter pin the bearing/ hub nut was so loose I was able to remove it just using my finger tips.
The hub slid off and the outer bearing dropped out of the hub.
I was expecting to need a puller to remove the hubs.
Is this normal on these cars or was Bubba in there?
Both drivers and passengers sides were the same.
I want to check the front axles for wear.
What are the acceptable specs before the axles need replacing.
Look very closely at the spindle surface where the large bearing slips on. If there is a little step there, it means that the bearing inner race has spun or has Brinelled the surface. This means that no matter what you do, the new bearing will always be a little loose on the spindle! This is something that is easily overlooked.
John
Front Coil Spring Removal
