These are the assumed "abandoned" connectors when PO put in crate 350

 

RubbaBizkit
Just FYI:
I went and looked up my records for the last time I recorded my parasitic draw. All I have that *might* draw amps is the Radio and the EZ-EFI 2.0.... and I don't think either draws much at all and the EZ-EFI may not draw anything at all. I do NOT have an analog clock. My car will easily start after over a month of no use.

Below is what I recorded:

PARASITIC DRAW= 4.98 mA = 0.00498 Amps (This is SAT - a good value). Documenting for reference information. Car reads 4.98 mA with everything secured. I do have EZ-EFI and a stereo with a memory power lead. Car will easily start after a month of not using it.
Per google 4.98mA=.00498 amps.

 

Batteries being defective from the first installation is not that UN-usual. I recommend that everyone fully charge the battery before INSTALLING it. I check the electrolyte to verify that it is the right specific gravity electrolyte and that the battery cells are all full to the mark. I have been known to discharge a brand new battery of 80% of the stored power. This initial cycling helps "Form" a battery. I measure out 80% and then replace it with 120% a couple times which makes the battery last longer. Also NEVER buy a battery that has sat on the shelf for a long time. Most all batteries have a manufactured on Date somewhere on the case. I find the newest one and start there.

The battery connector terminals should also be cleaned so there is NO corrosion on the posts of connectors. Once the connectors are secured then you can apply battery grease to prevent the oxidation of the connection. Batteries are an item that needs routine maintenance and regular care. Some of old timers remember when the service station would check the water in your battery during a routine fill up of gasoline.

My C3 is a 1968 and it has lots of corrosion on the electrical terminals so I have purchased some De-Ox-It contact surface cleaner. Every dirty connection can be cleaned easily and the rear light bulbs got brighter when I cleaned them.

To get your battery to last longer you can insulate the battery box to keep the heat from getting its way to the battery. Batteries exposed to heat can not last as long as a cooler location battery will.

 

Just an FYI to check, in my ‘82 C3 I once had my electric seat switch get jammed on and when the seat got to its end of travel it created a nearly silent but constant drain on the battery. Took me a few perplexing days to find.

 

What current draw were you reading with that?

 

 

Well this little neg terminal switch appears to be proving it's not my battery.

Unfortunately I will need to find the current-draw-gremlin. Maybe this weekend - but it's too friggen hot these days!....

 

You can bridge the switch gap with the ammeter and see if you have a current leak. Did you check the fuses in the multimeter?

 

Did a check of the load draw on my car...looks like only 1.65 milliamps according to the meter. Put the meter into DC mode. No clock load, alternator and battery are newer. Fortunately car can go a month without any issues. These knife switches do make it easy to check.

 

Have you checked for DC voltage output from alternator with engine running?

 

Checked the current draw for a replacement iSi Model S-3015 Quartz Conversion Kit clock on the bench and measured 12.8 milliamps at 13.0 Vdc. This is less than .17 watts and I would think should not run down a good battery for many weeks if not a month. However the older mechanical clocks likely draw significantly more current (and perhaps intermittently) however my old one is not working to be able to measure. Would still think the battery would go for weeks and not 2-3 days.

 

OK so busy weekend BUT I DID check the ammeter - I hooked up a power resistor with my external power supply and the meter tracked milliamp current wonderfully.

So my 0.13mA is an accurate reading,......AT THAT TIME.

Since I read all over the internet that up to 50mA is STILL OK,.... I have to think that something is randomly turning back On while the car SHOULD be sleeping.....

Thankful again for my battery blade-switch for now. BUT it looks like I will need a history-data-logger to further diagnose this. TBC.....

 

Way back in the beginning of this thread I asked if you had the battery load tested. Did you ever do that? You also mentioned your charger caused the battery to heat up. Another indicator this battery needs to be load tested.

 

ditto I had this... killed my battery in 2 days though. I found a alternator rebuild kit cheap and napa and was able to easily rebuild with you tube and keep my shiny case.
also if it hasnt been suggested check the light in the rear center floor compartment if you have one. sometimes they fail and stay on so ive read.

its easy to see if your alt is drawing current when off.. I unplugged the 2 wire connector and the draw stopped until fixed.

 

Technically you need to use your 10amp scale to measure for a draw. The reason being is having to verify your test equipment is operating correctly by visually seeing interior or park lights activation. Current draws will be 4-7 amps with park lights or a couple for the interior light circuits which ever you choose. Those fuses for for the mA select pop extremely easy and you can not perform the verification either.

 

What is really odd to me is that .13ma reading. That almost seems too low and certainly would not cause any draining issue. Perhaps an internal issue within the battery and self discharging over time? This would not prevent it from taking a recharge and might not show up during a load test. Might be able to verify by leaving the switch open for an extended period and see what happens. After a few days my battery sits at about 12.7V.

 

I get it things may appear odd but testing for a parasitic draw is exact and specific just for those reasons and is to weed out the faith based diagnosis.

 

Sorry the little time away here but back at it:

So it's been quite a while since I've employed the Blade-Switch "bandaid" solution. That appears to have buried the problem for now. I throw that switch and I can come back to the car after a week+ and it starts right back up. I'm pretty sure I have a "momentary" bad current draw that happens when I am not around.

Side notes:
I DID notice the last time I drove it that I can take out the ignition key after an incomplete rotation of the ignition and the car stays running..... :-0. Makes me wonder if there is an ignition switch "thing" going on that could draw current when I am not around.....? Like is it thinking the ignition is still On or something,....even though the engine is stopped....?

Another unique thing to mention => when I bought the car it was not running. The previous owner killed at least one of the fusible links. What happens if the shop I brought it to did NOT know about the fusible links and just ran a parallel (new) wire???? Could this action potentially bypass something that causes the car to wake-up and start to draw current again......?