With the help of Bikespace's excellent thread on 1980 LED Upgrades and Lessons Learned, and many others who posted there, I was able to successfully install exterior LEDs on my 1979. Some may desire to do the same, so I've attempted to put together a guide to do that. However, it may also work on other year models having the two-wire Front Marker Light system. Be sure to do your own diligent research to determine if this guide applies or not.

The goal of installing LEDs was primarily to be able to drive with the Parking Lights ON to better be seen on the road in the daytime, simulating DRLs. Also, to brighten up the rear Stop and Turn Signal lights. I started with completely stock ’79 wiring. The main issues are: 1) The stock Flashers are incompatible with low wattage LEDs, and require replacement with Electronic Flashers, and 2) The Front Side Markers do not have their own ground and require modification to allow the turn signal and marker LED bulbs to flash properly. Right now there are two primary methods of solving this problem. The first is to splice in resistors (which heat up). The second is to install a Blinker Genie 2 device which uses a compact logic circuit. This guide utilizes the later.

***These modifications assume a reasonable/safe knowledge of working on vehicle electrical systems, and an ability to cut, strip, crimp, and/or solder wires together.***

Here we go.

Step 1: Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, so that the vehicle is completely unpowered. I installed a “quick disconnect” on my battery, so that the process is easy. This will also allow “quick” disconnection/reconnection for testing.

Step 2: Replace all of the following bulbs with quality, bright LED bulbs of like kind:

— Front Side Markers - 168 Amber
— Front Park Light/Turn Signals - 1157 Amber (or White/Amber "switchbacks")
— Rear Park/Stop/Turn Signals (outboard lights) - 1157 Red
— Rear Brake/Backup Lights (inboard lights) - 1156 White, projector

To access the Front Side Marker & the Front Park Light/Turn Signal bulbs, and to provide more “room” to work with the wiring, I removed the front left and right Park/Signal Light housings. This required a Philips screwdriver for the five screws on each side. To remove the Park Light bulb socket from the housing, reach from underneath through the access hole and turn the socket carefully until it pops loose. The same can be done with the Side Marker sockets.



Front left Park/Turn light with LED. Side Marker bulb not yet replaced.

 

To access the rear bulbs, unscrew the two screws to remove each of the round lenses. Carefully turn the socket until it pops loose - about 1/8 turn in the proper direction. Replace the bulb with an LED bulb, then reinstall the socket into the lens. Fit the lens into the bumper, then insert the two long screws carefully back into their places. Screw in until snug. Do not over tighten.

Step 3: Replace the two Electronic Flashers. For the Turn Signal Flasher you’ll need an Electronic Flasher with the Reverse Polarity base and ground wire. The “United Pacific LED Flasher w/ Polarity Reversing Adapter” works perfectly. For the Hazard flasher, it requires only a standard Electronic Flasher with ground wire. I crimped and installed a ring connector on the end of the Signal Flasher wire, and added extra 18 Gauge stranded black wire and a ring connector to the Hazard Flasher to reach the ground.

***IMPORTANT: Be sure to test ALL potential ground points before determining the ground wire length and attaching ground wires. The ones I used should work, but by testing the grounds before cutting/crimping/installing the ground wires, you may save yourself some extra work.***

One ground for the two Flashers is the left screw end on the floor steering bracket. Be sure to run the black wire from each Flasher, to well behind the clutch pedal travel (if a manual) and then over to the screw. This gives the clutch free travel. Fasten the two wires with an internal toothed washer and extra nut.


Fuse Box above left foot well with Electronic Flashers.

Flasher Ground wires attached to Steering Bracket ground screw.

 

Step 4: Prepare the Blinker Genie2 and vehicle wiring for installation. I purchased/used the following items for this purpose:

— Pair of Blinker Genie 2 (for Automobiles) from www.customLED.com
— Sopoby 325 Piece Marine Grade Heat Shrink Wire Connectors Kit
— Klein Tools 1005 Cutting / Crimping Tool
— Klein Tools 11055 Wire Cutter and Wire Stripper
— Heat Gun for shrinking the Heat Shrink wire connectors
— 18 Gauge stranded black wire for grounds
— 1/2 or 3/4 inch plastic split cable tubing - about 6 feet or more.

Remove the Blinker Genie from its package, as well as the provided red butt connectors. Carefully, pull the Driver’s Side Marker and wiring (light blue & brown wires) out of the vehicle through the opening in the front gap of the open car hood. I cut the two wires to the Side Marker (light blue and brown) so that the stretched ends were about even with the top/front fiberglass body. This allowed me to install and crimp the butt connectors when ready.

*** Added Consideration: Using the Blinker Genie provided quality butt connectors will work -- and likely for a long time. This is what I used. However, "soldering iron, heat shrink sleeves, and the know-how, soldering is still best practice. It gives you better corrosion and pull resistance." Please determine which is best for your application.***

Install & crimp two red butt connectors on the ends of the light blue and brown Side Marker wires, and on the ends of the Blinker Genie red and white wires. Install, crimp and shrink one Sopoby ring connector (ring size appropriate for the ground bolt) to the end of the Blinker Genie black ground wire. Stretch the entire assembly out to determine the length of the other black ground wire. Cut a black 18 gauge wire to this size and crimp it on the end of the brown Side Marker wire. Install, crimp and shrink a Sopoby ring connector to the end of this black wire.


Driver's Side -- Blinker Genie 2 wiring prepared for installation.

 

Step 5: Install the Blinker Genie and wiring. Crimp the Blinker Genie red wire to the source brown wire, and the white wire to the source light blue wire. To attach the two black ground wires, you’ll need to disconnect the plastic split cable tube clamp in the corner of the hood opening. I found the pin retainer side of the clamp where it pushes through the front of the wheel well, squeezed it with a needle nose pliers, and pushed it back out. This allowed access to the 1/4 inch bolt end which will be the ground. Install the 1/4 inch external tooth lock washer, then slip the two black ground wires with ring terminals onto the bolt, then the 1/4 inch nut and tighten. Reconnect the cable clamp and retainer pin.


Driver's Side -- Blinker Genie Installation.

Driver's Side -- Grounds Installed.

 

Step 6: Wrap the Genie and wiring with split cable tubing and install the Side Marker.

Wrap the wiring with new split cable tubing starting about 5 inches from the Side Marker light bulb socket, covering the Blinker Genie and wiring to a few inches from the ground connection. It should now be fairly well protected from heat, water and rubbing. Run the LED bulb and wiring to its place near the Side Marker housing. Insert the bulb socket back into the housing from the bottom/front, and twist to lock it.


Driver’s Side — 1/2 inch split cable for the Side Marker wiring in place.

 

Step 7: Install the Park/Turn Signal housing and LED bulb and socket.

Before this step is accomplished, it may be desired to test the blinker system and new LED lights. If all works successfully, reinstall the Park/Turn Signal housing. Tighten the five screws in front, but do not over tighten. Reach underneath through the access hole and install the LED bulb socket. Twist carefully to lock it in place.

 

Passenger side Blinker Genie:
The passenger side installation is similar, with one major exception. The two ground wires must be extended to reach from the right side split cable tubing, across to a center grounding screw. This grounding point is at the end of the existing split cable tubing right under the "point" of the body in front of the hood.

Step 8: Prepare the Blinker Genie2 for installation similarly to the procedure for the driver’s side. Install and crimp the red butt connectors, but DO NOT install the Sopoby ring connectors on the ends of the black ground wires.


Passenger Side -- Blinker Genie2 wiring.

 

Step 9: Lay out the Genie wiring onto the protected front of the vehicle. Make sure that the length of the Brown/Black ground wiring stretches at least to the length of the end of the Genie Black ground wire. Cut the Brown/Black ground wire as they match up, to that length. Strip ends the black ground ends 1/3 to 1/4 inch, then twist them together. I recommend soldering them together. Now, crimp this end with a Sopoby heat shrink butt connector of appropriate size. Wrap the wiring with new split cable tubing starting about 5 inches from the light bulb socket end, covering the Blinker Genie and wiring, to a few inches from the two-ground butt connector. (Do not cut the split cable tubing until step 11.)

Step 10: Prepare another length of black 18 gage wire with a Sopoby heat shrink ring connector on the end. The length needed will be from the center grounding screw (mentioned earlier), through the existing split cable tubing, out to the side which will connect with the new two-ground butt connector. Crimp and heat shrink this ground wire extension. Now, crimp the electrical source wires together. White to Dark Blue, Red to Brown. (See wiring diagram)



Passenger side wiring prepared for final install.

Wiring diagram for Blinker Genie 2. (Credit: @Richard454)

 

Step 10 (Continued): Now push the single black ground wire with ring connector into the existing split cable tubing to the center grounding screw and install.


Center Grounding Screw with old and new ground wires.

Step 11: Finish covering the Blinker Genie and wiring with new split cable tubing. Then, cut the cable tubing to appropriate length. Run the Side Marker wiring with new split cable tubing down to the right Side Marker housing. Insert the LED bulb and socket back into the housing from the bottom/front, and twist to lock it.

 

Step 12: Install the Park/Turn Signal housing and LED bulb and socket.

Again, before this step is accomplished, it may be desired to test the blinker system and new LED lights. If all works as it should, then install the Park/Turn Signal housing. Tighten the five screws in front, but do not over tighten. Reach underneath through the access hole and install the LED bulb socket. Twist carefully to lock it in place.

The new LED bulbs should now be ready for testing and use!



Passenger Side — 1/2 inch split cable for the Side Marker wiring in place.

 

NIce writeup. Making me rethink adding LEDs to the '75.

 

Thank you, SteveG75. I'm not sure how similar or dissimilar the '75 wiring is, but hopefully this can help.

I also hope to add a VIDEO of the results here in the next week.

Bottom Line, the primary results I have now are, with Ignition ON:

-- Park Lights OFF: Both Front and Rear LED Turn Signals and Front LED Side Markers flash off & on brightly.

-- Park Lights ON: Front LED Turn Signals flash bright to dim, noticeably. LED Side Markers flash off & on (opposite the sequence of the Turn Signals). LED Rear Turn Signals flash brightly.

 

Since I still have some work to do on a video, I am simply including a photo of the installed LEDs with Park Lights - ON. Note both amber LED Park Lights and amber LED Side Marker lights illuminate. They are much brighter than the stock incandescent bulbs, though the photo doesn't show their true brightness.



'79 with LED Park Lights ON.

 

Great write up! I just did all of this on my ‘79 back in June and pieced together the info from several thread but great to have it all in one spot for people in the future.

When I first installed it everything worked great but soon after while driving one evening I noticed my turn indicator in the cluster was staying lit and dimly flashing with wither turn signal actived and the headlights on. When the headlights or driving lights are off everything seems to be fine but whenever I turn on the running/driving lights the signals both front and rear illuminate and dimly flash just like the dash light while the front side marker doesn’t flash or illuminate. I called blinker genie and they said there’s really nothing in those that could go bad and it seems like a back feeding issue since the dash light stays lit while blinking but I’m lost in where to start tracking that down. Any ideas?

 

IMO, It sounds like a connection issue of some sort. I'd start with checking for solid ground connections, first with the two Electronic Flasher grounds at the Fuse Box connected to whatever ground you used. This area also has the most potential for strain on the ground wires as our feet could be bumping things around. Also, make sure your ground wires from the Flashers run clear of any clutch or brake movement.

While you're in there at the Fuse Box, check to make sure the Electronic "Buzzer" box is seated properly into the right side of the Fuse Box and check it's power supply wire too. (Though, I don't think it's a Buzzer Box issue.)

If all of that checks good, and still no luck, check all of the connections and continuity - especially the grounds - for the Blinker Genies up front. If you used butt connectors as I did (and not soldering), check to make sure nothing has pulled loose. If it worked properly for a while, then this occurred, hopefully it is something simple like the connections/continuity.

That's where I would start.

 

Thanks for the response! Great minds think alike, I just redid/checked all of my main grounds last night and unfortunately the issue still persists. At least now I get some intermittent flashing of the drivers side marker.

Each marker light, front turn signals, and the main front/rear light harness grounds are all separated out now to see if I could pinpoint something.

I do have my flashers grounded to the top hood release cable bracket bolt with external star washer so maybe I’ll move that over to where yours is and see what happens. Otherwise on to each light socket so see if something’s going on internally. Any idea how to test those?

 

Nice to see another black 79 converted to LEDs.

I didn't want to deal with wiring in flashers and I found that as long as I retained ONE incandescent bulb per side of the car, I could convert all of the rest to LEDs and the one incandescent bulb would provide enough load for the stock blinkers to function.

If you're OCD, then having two bulbs left incandescent might drive you crazy, though...


Adam

 

Batman front plate is outstanding, by-the-way. Unfortunately in Washington State I have to have official front and rear plates.

Adam

 

Here's where I'd go with it:

A) First, I am assuming you are checking to see if the bulbs work properly with the Engine-OFF, Key in the IGNITION position. If so, be sure you have a fully charged battery. Less than a fully charged battery causes the LEDs not to function properly with Key in the IGNITION position, Park Lights - ON, Turn Signal - ON.

B) If the battery is fully charged and if the test results are still poor, then I would suspect a connection/continuity problem in between the "old" power source wires (light blue & brown wires on driver's side) and the respective side marker. Sure, it could be a socket problem too. I'd remove the side marker, Genie, and wiring and lay it out on the protected front of the car. Then I'd replace the LED bulb with an old incandescent bulb (making sure it's a good bulb). Then I'd turn on the Side Marker/Park Lights. If the side marker lights up and stays steady on, it should be a good socket. Then I'd move the various wires around and see if the Side Marker "blinks" or is intermittent. Then, I'd pull lightly on each of the two wires going into each end of the butt connector(s). If a wire comes right out, we may have found the continuity problem.

C) Yes, these sockets are 40+ years old. There could easily be oxidation on the internal contact surfaces. It can usually be rubbed off with a small flathead screwdriver and a thin strip of fine sand paper. Some good Electronics Cleaner spray can refresh the contacts as well.

Hope this helps. Let us know...

 

Thanks for that info. Yes, this is another way to get a LED bulb to work. As long as a person is satisfied with the brightness of the incandescent bulbs left in. I did leave the Rear Side Marker incandescent bulbs in.

Thanks, Adam. Yeah, it's a fun front plate.
-- G