When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm looking to upgrade the relatively stock engine in my 72. It's the base 350 with a few bolt-ons (Sniper EFI, Edelbrock Performer manifold, mid-length headers).
It's an automatic with stock torque converter and rear gears (which I believe are 3.08). Mostly street use, so I think keeping the power band lower in the RPM range would be ideal. I'm thinking a set of the AFR 916 180cc SBC Eliminator heads would work well. I'm also thinking it would be the right time to do a roller conversion, so these heads seem to align with that.
When it comes to engine building, I'm green. So, everything I've come up with is through research on here, as well as various articles I've come across.
The attachment shows the parts list I’ve put together through Summit. The
questions I have:
Would the cam selected be appropriate for my goals (if not, what would be recommended)?
Is there anything obvious missing from my parts list? (pushrods would be ordered after I'm able to use the length checker to determine what's necessary)
I'm hoping some more of the more experienced builders on here can help guide me in the right direction. I believe I've covered most of the info on the car and goals, but if other info is helpful, let me know.
I would go one step smaller on the cam. Maybe something in the 222-230 range. Of course it all depends on what your compression ratio ends up at with the new heads.
If so your cam is too big. Look for something closer to a 275 duration on a 110 LSA with your 3.08 rear diff. Stock torque converter stalls very low as well. Moving to a 2500 to 3000 stall torque converter would help a lot. You would need an additional trans fluid cooler with that combo.
The chosen head gasket is too thick for good quench. Pistons reside .025 down the bore at TDC on a stock motor, that combined with .041" gasket gives you .066" quench. This will not help keep detonation at bay.
ideally quench would be in the .040" range. Look for the felpro .015" steel shim gasket.
Put a 1.6 rocker on the intake of the above cam......
The problem is compression........even with a 64cc chamber......you might muster about 9.5 to 1......to run the cam you listed, you would need 10.5 to 1 and a 4 speed or a converter........high compression to keep cylinder pressure up at low RPM's which imporves throttle response......
I put that exact cam in a 385ci small block, fresh build.....but it was 10.4 to 1......with 35 more cubic inches and it loved it......low 12 second car.......
Last year I built a 357ci small block with 10.6 to 1 and Trick Flow DH 175 heads, EPS intake and a 650 DP Holley, 2.5" Ram Horns......The heads are 60cc chamber and I recommend these heads over the AFR.....a little smaller intake and smaller chamber.....top notch build quality.
This cam pulls like a train behind a TKO 5 speed.....93 octane fuel......nice lope....a real sweetheart of a street engine......nice and crispy.....but IMHO.....this would need a mild converter.....
You need light tension springs to check for pushrod length.
Mahle makes a great head gasket that is .028 thick and this is the way I have been going for head swaps.......
I would go one step smaller on the cam. Maybe something in the 222-230 range. Of course it all depends on what your compression ratio ends up at with the new heads.
See below.
Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Stock pistons I'm guessing?
If so your cam is too big. Look for something closer to a 275 duration on a 110 LSA with your 3.08 rear diff. Stock torque converter stalls very low as well. Moving to a 2500 to 3000 stall torque converter would help a lot. You would need an additional trans fluid cooler with that combo.
The chosen head gasket is too thick for good quench. Pistons reside .025 down the bore at TDC on a stock motor, that combined with .041" gasket gives you .066" quench. This will not help keep detonation at bay.
ideally quench would be in the .040" range. Look for the felpro .015" steel shim gasket.
I would assume stock pistons, but since I haven't had it apart, I'm not sure.
I picked the gaskets based on the recommended parts from AFR's site, which might have been a conservative recommendation for clearance.
Swapping the converter is a possibility, at a slightly later date. The reason for waiting is so that if there are issues, troubleshooting is a bit easier with a more limited scope of work that was done.
Originally Posted by riverracer au
Don't think the rockers will fit under the stock covers either.
When I got the car the original valve covers had been replaced with some stamped chrome pieces. I recently replaced those with a set of fabricated aluminum covers, with that additional height, I believe I'll be good there.
Put a 1.6 rocker on the intake of the above cam......
The problem is compression........even with a 64cc chamber......you might muster about 9.5 to 1......to run the cam you listed, you would need 10.5 to 1 and a 4 speed or a converter........high compression to keep cylinder pressure up at low RPM's which imporves throttle response......
I put that exact cam in a 385ci small block, fresh build.....but it was 10.4 to 1......with 35 more cubic inches and it loved it......low 12 second car.......
Last year I built a 357ci small block with 10.6 to 1 and Trick Flow DH 175 heads, EPS intake and a 650 DP Holley, 2.5" Ram Horns......The heads are 60cc chamber and I recommend these heads over the AFR.....a little smaller intake and smaller chamber.....top notch build quality.
This cam pulls like a train behind a TKO 5 speed.....93 octane fuel......nice lope....a real sweetheart of a street engine......nice and crispy.....but IMHO.....this would need a mild converter.....
You need light tension springs to check for pushrod length.
Mahle makes a great head gasket that is .028 thick and this is the way I have been going for head swaps.......
Jebby
Considering the torque converter install, I don't want to do it at the same time and not trying to predict my future modifications. I would say my plan is to keep the current converter for now. Based on that, would you recommend:
I would assume stock pistons, but since I haven't had it apart, I'm not sure.
I picked the gaskets based on the recommended parts from AFR's site, which might have been a conservative recommendation for clearance.
Swapping the converter is a possibility, at a slightly later date. The reason for waiting is so that if there are issues, troubleshooting is a bit easier with a more limited scope of work that was done.
When I got the car the original valve covers had been replaced with some stamped chrome pieces. I recently replaced those with a set of fabricated aluminum covers, with that additional height, I believe I'll be good there.
Considering the torque converter install, I don't want to do it at the same time and not trying to predict my future modifications. I would say my plan is to keep the current converter for now. Based on that, would you recommend:
Sorry... the .026 is the right one.
Everything else looks right but those huge Summit rockers won't fit under the stock covers.......there are many other choices for a smaller porfile rocker. The Comp yellow Magnum Rockers will fit under the stock covers......most aftermarket heads have a 1/2to 5/8" higher valve cover rail......
You will need a set of ARP head bolts.......
You only really need one checker spring......on a small block you can get away with checking one valve for pushrod length as all the valves are inline......
Hope so, i got the order put in for everything this morning. Won't be doing the install for another month or so, but wanted to have everything in hand and ready.
I appreciate the advice and assistance given in picking out a combo.
I'm running the same cam, Howards Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam 111145, but in the -12 lobe separation.
It was recommended to me by people on here back in late 2013.
Matched with Edelbrock 64cc ED60899 Performer RPM cylinder heads and 2101 inlet manifold, 0.030" over flattops, 700R4 auto and 3.08 diff.
Not sure on the convertor, but it was custom from my transmission re builder.
Went the -12 lobes as at the time our rules for left hand drives here in south Oz had to be stock, no mods.
But that has all changed now, free for all (almost) now.
Couple of years ago i was thinking about swapping it out for the -10, for a bit more "sound" possibly.
I think combined with the 700R4 and overdrive the 3.08 gears let it down.
Have a diff to rebuild here, fitted with 3.55 at the moment, but have some 3.36 gears to go with.
Last edited by riverracer au; Aug 28, 2023 at 06:46 AM.
The consensus I have read is the fuel injection setup likes a single plane intake for better fuel distribution.Kinda goes against the 3.08 gears in my mind. Maybe read up on it and see what you think.
Not saying it won't work with a dual plane just something I have read more than once.
The consensus I have read is the fuel injection setup likes a single plane intake for better fuel distribution.Kinda goes against the 3.08 gears in my mind. Maybe read up on it and see what you think.
Not saying it won't work with a dual plane just something I have read more than once.
True, my thought was to just reuse the existing intake. However, since I'm spending the money and time on everything else, don't want to skimp. Reading through some information, I see this intake recommended:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-7530WND
I also read that milling down the divider on the one I currently have is an option.
1972 350 top end upgrade
