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Right after I bought this car the alternator started acting up. Because it's the original alternator for the car I just put it in a box and put an alternator on the car. Now that I'm cleaning up the engine compartment I figured it would be nice to have the restored part back on the car. I've replaced the voltage regulator but the guage for the alternator is pegged at 40+. I've had 2 new regulators and there is no change. There is something that goes between the regulator and winding,possible a resistor,not sure. What could be the issue here,cars a 75.
Here is the breakdown of parts I use to rebuild original to car 37-63 AMP alternators.
Capacitor #25 and Resistor #33 are getting hard to find so a China made Standard RC14 (Cap) and Standard RU-25 (Resistor) can be substituted...
I never use the $30.00 complete rebuild kits available, who knows whats inside...
The service manual has a problem/solution section in it that might help you pinpoint your overcharging problem...
Here is the breakdown of parts I use to rebuild original to car 37-63 AMP alternators.
Capacitor #25 and Resistor #33 are getting hard to find so a China made Standard RC14 (Cap) and Standard RU-25 (Resistor) can be substituted...
I never use the $30.00 complete rebuild kits available, who knows whats inside...
The service manual has a problem/solution section in it that might help you pinpoint your overcharging problem...
Thank you for the info,I need to find out which part is bad. It's been 2 years since I removed this from the car because at the time I thought the regulator was bad. The issue had got to be the diode.
When you put a voltmeter on the system, what does it read?
If after continued diagnosis, the alternator turns out to be the problem, I'd just get a new alternator from Rock Auto. For about 70 bucks plus shipping you can get a new Delco 63A 10SI alternator
I have a similar issue, a five year at MAX old 105 amp rated alt, serp drive, but on my '72 that has been modernized.....so the issue is that I have a much newer fresh battery in the car, and having already changed the regulator in the alt. I still have a strange problem....
Car used to run with alt output at maybe 11.5 volts or so at the terminals, changed the reg. and it's now at 12.8 or so at MAX I have played with the two terminals on the reg....one red wire of course goes to the alt output stud....always USED to work fine that way......and the white wire seems to not matter hooked to a dash light or not.....
I am used to seeing 13.5 to 13.8 at the alt out stud when charging the bat dropping off of course to 13 or so after some running.....
Well,it's official. Something that many people have suspected for quite some time,I'm an idiot. I changed the a known good alternator and same results,checked voltage at alternating and got 13.9/14. Gauge not reading correctly,that sucks because I have no intention of tearing this car apart to replace it. I've already found an NOS part,I'll just put it in my parts stash. Now to figure out how I can monitor the volts coming off the alternator until I can replace it. What would cause the gauge to fail,any tips on a temp amp gauge mounted in the engine compartment?
Alternator over charging.
