Well....I would mock it up with a 1.6 rocker and the light tension spring you need to use to check for pushrod length then clay it out at that point......I doubt very highly it is close but you can kills birds with a stone this way.....or mock it up with a 1.5, clay it, and add the math for 1.6.....lobe lift numbers are on the cam card. The heads still flow very well at .600 but not much more.....although the flow number is more than adequate for the power level so lifting the valve a little higher will work here....if you have any apprehension...just put 1.5's on it.....

Jebby

 

Great, thanks. Yeah, as @randallsteel pointed out, a chuck of change for a few more horses at top end. I'll stick with 1.5. Thanks for your help!

 

A follow up question on this. I haven’t yet ordered the cam (accidentally ordered the retrofit version, had to return… long story) and components have changed a bit:

- for carb I choose the 750 cfm Eddy VRS-4150. Yeah, I know it’s not a Holley but I like the design improvements and the annular boosters
- 1” phenolic spacer ( on eddy performer RPM)
- Holley 4” side pipes (long tube 1.75 primary) with Dougs glass pack inserts (id on those is 1.75). Inserts are 30” so I think that makes the collector length about 8”.
- Comp Magnum roller tip rockers, 1.52 ratio
​​​​​​- already have oe lifters
-and reminder, drive train is a Muncie M20 w 3.07 rear

@Jebbysan does that change the cam recommendation at all? Appreciate all the guidance!

 

I’m curious if you are going to have hood clearance issues.
If I remember right when I added a manifold that was an inch taller, I had to buy a drop base. After some other mods I ended up going with a hood cowl

 

I just realized I never answered this question......look at the intake duration on my cam recommendation as how "big" the cam is......the exhaust is held open a little longer to promote scavenge without a ton of overlap.....most all LS cam profiles are like this but it takes a really good head to make it work as intended......
I run the single pattern flat tappets in a lot of "budget" engines because they are older grinds with easier ramps and that is the way it was back in the Pre-Aftermarket head years......they work well, sound good, make good power and are the Devil I know......I haven't run a split pattern flat tappet in almost 20 years since I wiped the first XE274 in a 77' Vette that I had to do twice......everything got an old grind after that.....I won't build them that way even if you request the cam.....all of the "modern" grinds are split duration.....there are some exceptions like the Summit cams which have been in the Elgin catalog for 30 years or better......I am putting a split 214/224 in the Wife's 82 Z/28......but these lobes are old lazy lobes.....
Anyway...you have of course much more valve control with a roller getting the valve to open and shut and longer exhaust duration is more pronounced with a roller lobe and they run well without a long tube header.......

Jebby

 

yup. :-)