OK, here we go again. 73, 350 auto. pretty sure cam lobe for the fuel pump is worn because ive tried an aftermarket and 2 new mechanical fuel pumps, plus i changed the pump rod. i can suck gas through the lines, no blockage, just not pumping. even replaced the line from the pump to the carb. so im going electric for now(i may just run a new braided line from the new pump along the old lines just for safety). i finally actually purchased 90% of what i need from summit racing. Fuel pump, regulator, relay and block off plate(parts list below). should be here by the end of the week. im trying to get the wiring in before the parts get here. she's been sitting for years, starts up when i put gas in the carb, etc, etc. im sure i'll find some issues, but if i can get it running, thats what im looking for. what i need is a "installing electric fuel pump for dummies" diagram. i've search through a ton of threads, but havent found one that really says how to wire and install, mostly, heres a pic of it installed. i have a pretty good idea, but i'm sure some of you have done it, and confirming or negating my thoughts are completely worth it. a quick line diagram of the relay wiring, and plumbing for the pump and regulator would help a ton. any pictures of placement of the pump and reg would be great. i pulled the spare tire and casing. if i get a flat, i'll tow it home, dont need it. might be a good place, but again, i want opinions. plumbing in is a bit scary cutting the fuel line, i emptied the tank, but residual fuel and sparking...

for further info, i've owned it for 30ish years. almost a daily driver back then. then went to storage. 10 years later, cleaned up and started fine. drove it once to move it, back to storage. 10+ years later and a car moving company, into my garage. no fuel to the carb. carb rebuilt, but no fuel. 3 pumps later, no fuel. that was 7ish years ago. kids, house etc, and "this year you will be on the road". this is the year. give me fuel and able to drive it around my driveway instead of pushing it with my 4-wheeler in and out of the garage, and i'll do victory laps!

List of parts ordered:

SUM-G3136-1 fuel pump
SUM220056 pressure regulator
SUM-G3116 hose fittings 6 total(i'll probably have to get some line at autozone or something as well as clamps)
SUM-401030 block off plate
Sum-890023 fuel pump relay

Thanks guys.

oh, im in NH, so if there is anyone close who want a day off and some beer to help, hit me up!

 

It's pretty straightforward. I used a Holley Red pump and mounted it to the frame in the back passenger side corner. I added some rubber insulation between the bracket and the frame to lower the vibration and noise. I bought new fuel line and it goes from the tank to the pump, pump to the hard line. Up front I used a small piece of fuel line to go to a fitting for a braided stainless line that I ran up to an inline summit canister filter, then another braided line from there to the carb (I have a Holley Street Demon carb). I put the relay in by the battery, I have the red going to the battery, ground (to frame) and the line to the pump going out the back of the battery box, and the ignition wire going to the fusebox where I spliced it to the radio power. You can add an oil pressure switch on the motor so it will only run when it's spinning, but that was more trouble than it seemed worth. Works great, I've had it like this for about 4 or 5 years now.

 

Any chance you have a picture or 2 of the pump mounted? That's my biggest concern. How and where to mount it to the frame I have the parts now and it's jacked up on stands. I'm sure I need to hit autozone for a few fittings, but want to make it a. 1 or 2 trip thing there! I also have a pressure regulator that I need to mount, thinking maybe put that towards the front and the pump in the back. The wiring seems pretty easy, I can handle that, hoping to plumb it in today, and get the wiring mostly done. Maybe if all goes well, here her start by the end of the weekend. Won't be on the road before snow I'm guessing, but that will give me time to address the other small issues to make it road safe by next year.

 

These are the best I could get with it on the ground. Up front I put a t-fitting right before the filter so I could hook the return line up and help avoid vapor lock - I have a big block.

 

I believe I used rubber bushings behind each of the two bolts to move it out away from the frame and insulate the vibration

 

I see it now, you are right about the exhaust tip. Took me a bit to figure that out! I spoke with summit again and the guy I talked to today said for a weekend driver, like I plan to use it, I don't need the fuel regulator. The pump puts out 7 psi preset. I'm about to go out, take out that damn mechanical pump, again.... plate it off and get a list of connectors. I don't have a filter, so I'll probably grab one and put it between the original incoming pump line and the line up to the carb. Then wire it in and hold my breathe...
thanks for the info. This is alot less daunting now.

 

If you need more pics or any tips don’t hesitate to reach out.

 

Completely plumbed in. Ran out of energy to wire it up. Going to look for a bit of a heat shield because it's closer to the exhaust tip than I'd like. Wiring is happening tomorrow and with any luck, it runs. I'm cautiously excited.

Quick question though, once it's ready, how long should I run the pump before I try to crank it? Not really sure the speed of the fuel to the carb.

 

glad it’s going well so far!

 

Dropped my daughter at softball, got it wired in, it's pumping, no leaks, everything is great...carb, that I had rebuilt a few years ago when I thought it was a can issue, is leaking. One of the float bowl screws is stripped. More work to do, but I have fuel now!

pump is pretty loud, but will likely be drowned out by the engine noise when it finally runs.

 

Glad you got it all working! It’s a bit noisy but you’re right, when the engine is running you really can’t hear it. If i need the ignition on without it running I just pop the relay out!

 

Sounds like you got everything right and and is working fine. I would just keep watch any sign of carb flooding if you are not using the regulator. I know a guy that installed a 6 psi pump that actually was putting out 9 psi which caused some carb issues so he installed a regulator. I have been running a carter pump on my 65 gto for 20 years with no problem. I hope your pump was made in USA but many are made in china as everything else is these days. I do carry a spare just in case . Also I run a Ford inertia switch so in the event of an accident the switch will shut the pump off. You can usually get them at a junkyard for $10. If my car is parked where I can't see it I can smack the relay with my fist so someone stealing it won't get too far when the carb runs out of fuel!

 

I have the red pump as well. I have the pump powered straight from the battery through a relay that comes off a keyed ignition source. The power on for the relay also has a cutoff switch on the dash.

So i turn on the key to power the switch, flip on the switch which powers the relay and that turns on the pump. Pump to carb once there is fuel in the line but the carb is empty is about 3 seconds. Once the bowl is full you can start it as soon as you turn the key.

 

Your mounting job looks clean , good job

 

Happened to me too. All that metal that came off the cam went somewhere (small block in my case). I assume that my oil filter caught it, but an oil change seems warranted. My motor ran fine for years afterward.

 

smooth! not a fan of the electronic pump noise, but i'll get used to it. have to sort out the carb leaking. might just get a new one at this point. transmission is suspect as well, how the hell do you check the tranny fluid, through the bolt, on a level surface, at running temp? without a lift this seems impossible!