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I'm pondering this guy.... can you actually place it under the Corvette?
I'm about to pull the trigger but need to know if the 5000TL is adequate enough....
Costco has the 5000TL on sale right now. $1,399.99 After $300 OFF
Valid 9/21/23 through 10/16/23. While supplies last.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
yes it is, the 5000 will lift 5000lbs so it can lift most suvs as well. You can buy different rubber pucks froom them if the ones that come with it are inadequate, or add hockey pucks
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Oct 15, 2023 at 08:00 AM.
I'm pondering this guy.... can you actually place it under the Corvette?
I'm about to pull the trigger but need to know if the 5000TL is adequate enough....
Costco has the 5000TL on sale right now. $1,399.99 After $300 OFF
Valid 9/21/23 through 10/16/23. While supplies last.
The quickjack 5000TL is a great product if you need to work on your car often. Meaning Transmission , rear diff , suspension , . I did a clutch replacement with the 5000-SLX version (borrowed from a friend) this version was useless since I could not remove the transmission from under the car, not enough clearance. Made me decide not to buy a quickjack. Then when the 5000TL came out I looked again. added 3 ", this was still not enough unless I stacked the 2 blocks supplied. So now with the 5000TL + both blocks the transmission can be
removed from under the car while staying on the transmission jack. This was a life saver for my old body. A total of 24" clear from underside of frame to the ground. This allowed me to sit under the car in the tunnel while working on the clutch, no laying on my back.
This version is well worth it for people that love to do the work. I also use this on my C6 corvette.
Youse guys are convincing ...... so it's been ordered..... thanks for the feedback. I may be back to ask for pointers after I get it since I don't want the car dropping on my noggin!
The quickjack 5000TL is a great product if you need to work on your car often. Meaning Transmission , rear diff , suspension , . I did a clutch replacement with the 5000-SLX version (borrowed from a friend) this version was useless since I could not remove the transmission from under the car, not enough clearance. Made me decide not to buy a quickjack. Then when the 5000TL came out I looked again. added 3 ", this was still not enough unless I stacked the 2 blocks supplied. So now with the 5000TL + both blocks the transmission can be
removed from under the car while staying on the transmission jack. This was a life saver for my old body. A total of 24" clear from underside of frame to the ground. This allowed me to sit under the car in the tunnel while working on the clutch, no laying on my back.
This version is well worth it for people that love to do the work. I also use this on my C6 corvette.
I would only caution my experience with Quickjack.. which i love BTW.
i never double stack blocks.. they say you can i do NOT.. the c3 block placement barely fits as frame starts to dive inside, and when lifting anything off center will fling the blocks.. (ask how i know)..
better yet.. get the SUV kit.. use the half size one, this will gain even more clearance safely..and stiffer and as you say.. every inch counts..but safely
Hell, I use it for when I want to polish the rims or wax the bottoms of the doors and egg crates. Just so much easier when it's up where I can sit on the little stool instead of the floor
(FWIW, I removed my th400 on the slx but it needed to be laid on the ground and dragged out on a piece of cardboard. PIA but doable. )
M
Sure is nice to lift the car or whatever I'm working on and WALK under it, just saying = got $2300.00 tied up in a 9000 LB. 4 post
if your young that thing will work, when you get older you get tired of bending over & crawling on your knees
Sure is nice to lift the car or whatever I'm working on and WALK under it, just saying = got $2300.00 tied up in a 9000 LB. 4 post
if your young that thing will work, when you get older you get tired of bending over & crawling on your knees
i don’t have the space..and assume many others do not as well,
or i would..it fits the niche very well.
my other advice a very nice creeper.. i could take a nap on mine..
i just leave them on ground and drive over them. I’m lazy
Sure is nice to lift the car or whatever I'm working on and WALK under it, just saying = got $2300.00 tied up in a 9000 LB. 4 post
if your young that thing will work, when you get older you get tired of bending over & crawling on your knees
Not sure that's going to work so great with my 8-1/2' garage ceiling...
M
Wow. Ordered on Monday and parts are supposed to start arriving today. Gave me an opportunity to watch some youtube videos. I saw a recommendation to use Teflon Tape instead of the sealing compound. I reckon I can do that.
Can someone share views of the underside where you place the lifting blocks? No need for me to reinvent the wheel.
I love mine and service all my cars with the exception of my Toyota Tacoma. I bought it several years ago and have used it when pulling the engine on my 1970 ( big block ).
I moved and have a 4 post lift in my new garage but still use the quickjack on the lift to pull tires, suspension etc.
Interesting how some place the direction of the Quickjack opposite the others. What I mean is when the QJ lifts the car it goes more forward, while others have the QJ position reversed where while lifting it goes backwards. Is there a direction placement preference or it doesn’t matter?
Wow. Ordered on Monday and parts are supposed to start arriving today. Gave me an opportunity to watch some youtube videos. I saw a recommendation to use Teflon Tape instead of the sealing compound. I reckon I can do that.
Can someone share views of the underside where you place the lifting blocks? No need for me to reinvent the wheel.
use existing jack points in manual.. you will need to put as far back as you can to catch the front frame before it dives in at the front.
not sure it matters which way you jack the car front or rear direction to last question..it will move slightly in the rear direction as it rises, so put a few inches from car to garage door if you want it to shut in air..
Interesting how some place the direction of the Quickjack opposite the others. What I mean is when the QJ lifts the car it goes more forward, while others have the QJ position reversed where while lifting it goes backwards. Is there a direction placement preference or it doesn’t matter?
For me in a small garage it's a matter of where I want the room. I have a set of marks on the floor that I know when I lift the car going backwards it's going to just clear the garage door behind the car and give me the most amount of room in front of the car to go by and slide under to work on the front end, motor, trans, etc. and I've got another set the shows where it needs to be to lift going forward to give me enough room to sneak by in front while giving more room at the rear for work back there.
Keep in mind you can also lift the car sideways.. I've done it a couple of times when I needed room to get at the the transmission to slide it out the side. It's a really weird feeling having the car move up and away from you...
M
I got my wrist slapped before but I'll add that putting casters on the quickjack makes positioning it under the car / sliding it out of the way soooo much nicer than dragging it around on the floor.
Wow. Ordered on Monday and parts are supposed to start arriving today. Gave me an opportunity to watch some youtube videos. I saw a recommendation to use Teflon Tape instead of the sealing compound. I reckon I can do that.
Can someone share views of the underside where you place the lifting blocks? No need for me to reinvent the wheel.
As mentioned, try to get the rear pad as far back as you can on the frame rail and the front as back in the jackwell as you can, it's usually just where the frame starts curving inwards as mentioned above. It's easier if you are lifting in the direction where the car moves forward as it goes up. I've done it enough to know where the QJ has to be in relation to my rear tire both fore/aft and side to side. Then I look at the frame of the QJ compared to the rocker molding to make sure it's more or less straight to the car and up it goes.
Somethings to be aware of:
The rear tires will not slide outwards when you let the car down so it prevents the car from settling back down to ride height.
The car usually wont go back into exactly the same place where it was when you lift it... so don't be too close to the garage door, it might want to settle back an inch or so
Never double stack the rubber blocks, regardless of what QJ says, if you need more height, put a block of wood that's the size of the jack well on and then the large block or get a set of risers or make something.
Now one more thing... if you are jacking the car up and the rear of the jack frame touches the rear tire, not much but a little... and you remove the wheel for say doing the brakes or something. It's entirely possible you won't be able to put the wheel back onto the hub because the frame is now in the way... and you can't let the car down to move the frame because the tires aren't on.
Makes for a real head-scratcher. Just saying
Is the 5000TL quickjack enough for C3 corvette?
i could take a nap on mine..
