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I see many guys doing diff work at home these days. That's fine, if you use ARP ring gear bolts as I do, you better countersink the case and check engagement. I see many just bolt them to the RG as is. GM RG hole depth varies, most new gears are better, more uniform in this respect but still need to be checked.
It not done correctly, the bolt will not be fully seated or bottomed out in the hole with a false torque reading. This may lead to the bolt(s) backing out in use and breaking, possibly wrecking the posi or locking up the diff. One conman that was on here did that with a cheapo 12 bolt build and the diff locked up.
It's a simple thing to overlook, it's not in any manual and most rebuilders use the cheap grade 8 bolts that come in the kits, not even shoulder bolts.
This is the definition of blue printing a differential, the smallest of details are often the most crucial ones. Thank you for your continued efforts in keeping us educated, Gary. Your wisdom is greatly appreciated.
Good info. But you show pics of the bolts being turned down (length) on a lathe. So which is better, countersinking the hole in the ring gear or shortening the bolts? Or both?
Good info. But you show pics of the bolts being turned down (length) on a lathe. So, which is better, countersinking the hole in the ring gear or shortening the bolts? Or both?
It is not a universal one size fits all thing. Yes, many do just that, including rebuilders- I have some pictures of "custom" work by some of these guys.
I don't just install them. As anyone I have built a diff for can attest to, I check each hole and the case flange. Adjustments are made as required for full engagement without bottoming out or hanging up.
ARP Ring Gear Bolts
