Took door panel off some time ago and being a bit too ****, wound up replacing the window motor, actuator, some wiring, some weather stripping (actually all on the doors).
Adjusted according to service manual as best I can and goes up slow (normal?) but with door closed will not go up all the way. With door open it goes up all the way and appears to make a good seal etc.
What have I not greased, adjusted too tightly, etc for those of you with experience? 1978 Pace Car. TIA

 

I recently installed PW in my 70. Similar issue, window wouldn't go all the way up with the door closed. Problem was the window tilted inward a bit too much causing a lot of drag against the A pillar weatherstrip. I'd try adjusting so the glass leans a bit more outward but not so far as losing contact with the A pillar or rear weatherstrip. Is the car running when operating the windows? I found the motors run a bit stronger if the car is running, alternator providing a bit more voltage...

 

Thanks for the reply. After looking at it more closely, and operating the window from inside the car (with motor running), I realize that the top of the window is tilted too far in. When rolling it up with the door open, it goes up all the way tho more slowly at the end. Closing the door then it appears the window is sealing well. When I roll it up with the door closed it is obvious the top of the window is tilted too far inward and thus stops short.
I had adjusted it as far in as it seems it will go, but obviously I need more. My concern is that it appears someone had already replaced part of the regulator and perhaps something is off, but again it did work before I worked on it. I'll keep reviewing the diagram and instructions and move stuff around until I get it right. Seems hit or miss at this point.

 

One of my 78’s is an ultra-low mileage, all original that hasn’t been messed with. I use it as a reference for my other ‘78 that has needed a lot more work. The windows go to the top in 2-3 seconds. The excessive inward lean of the window is the trickiest adjustment. I got the best result by attaching a glass panel suction cup, loosening all the adjustment points, jiggling the window into position, then tightening everything while holding the glass in position with the suction cup handle. It took a few months of leaving the window all the way up and parking in the sun a few times to get the new weatherstripping to compress enough. Lots of silicone on the rubber helps. The straight up orientation of the switches in the center console allows debris to get into the contacts of the switch. One of mine had a pine needle stuck across the contacts. In another one a PO had installed a plastic shield just below the switch swivel to keep debris out. The


switches also arc a little just before the contacts close, which gradually corrodes the contact points. They can be cleaned out, but the plastic casing breaks easily on getting it apart. Replacement switches are cheap and easy to install. New switches on mine made the window go up much faster.
Charlie

 

Thanks. I have loosened eveything and now I have it so the window won't go all the way up even with the door open. I'm sure I can fix that but top tilted in too far I have not been able to correct yet. I will try the suction, then get on the inside and tighten. The last time I did something similar the window seemed to bind and would barely go up at all.. Will keep trying....

I have new switches that I have yet to install, current ones work fine just look bad.

Thanks for the reply.

 

After adjustment one window would lock up in a certain position. Had to shave down one of the nuts to keep it from binding. Seems like the tilting in at the top would be solved if it were possible to move the bottom end of the tracks inboard at the bottom of the door. With the pivot point at the top of the door. Unfortunately that would entail removing all the works from the door to get access. That much work wasn’t worth it. The stops for adjusting how far the window goes up is much easier.

 

The weatherstrips on the A pillar can be moved inward a bit if needed. Three screws, slots in the guides. I don’t know why this would be necessary if the window tracked okay before. Could be the replacement regulator is slightly off, causing an inward tilt?

I had to do this on my car though in my case the car had been taken apart for paint, upgraded from manual to power windows, new weatherstrips. The current positioning of my weatherstrip guide appears to be typical.

 

Kerschmolar,
Good morning K..WOW another 78 owner with widow issues..
I read your post completely and can identify with that..
I would seriously appreciate any step by step instructions on how to do the adjustments you mention...
Yepper I know use the AIM but that portion is hard to read and harder to understand for super senior senior..
So, I'd like to get it from someone that has successfully do it

JJ78