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I converted my 73 big block from power steering to manual steering.
I’m in the process of installing the new suspension components and steering linkage.
In the shop manual it says that I have the option to use either of the two holes in the steering arms to connect the tie rod ends.
It specifies to use the forward holes for the fast ratio (17.6:1), or use the rear holes for the standard ratio (20.2:1).
I’ve read in older threads that people who have manual steering use the rear holes, just because everyone says too.
Has anyone with a manual steering car ever swapped from the rear holes to the front holes to see the difference between the fast and standard steering ratios?
If so, can you explain the differences?
Just to clarify, the shop manual does state to only use the forward holes on a power steering set up.
My 77 only has ONE set of holes in the spindle arms.....and they are the holes for the power steering setup (i.e. less leverage). I also have 2.5 degrees caster, and a smaller, factory 77 steering wheel....ALL of which move the steering in the "harder to turn" category. But....I have said it many times, the effort required is ONLY a slight issue when turning tight under 5 mph...like in parking lot. I have to do it every time I go in....and out, of my garage. IMO....its a total non-issue. Once moving down the road at above 10 mph....I CAN turn the wheel with a finger tip....although, driving my car with manual steering is FUN to drive,....more FUN to drive than ANYTHING I have ever driven, because the feedback from the road, and the effort increase in higher speed twisting turns is incredible....is the component that makes it fun to deal with. It makes it different than anything else, and it is THE MOST important factor in why I love driving the car. The effort to steer it is completeliy within anyone's capability.....any suggestion it is not is exxageration. Only a completely unhealthy man, or possibly a small women, would have issues with parking the car. The trick is also to make sure you are moving when you turn the steering wheel.....not just scrubbing the tires standing still.
Rear holes = strong arm steering...
Front holes = Super strong arm steering
If you are going to slalom the car, the fast turn is what you want, but it will be a bear to turn at super slow speed.
If you are road racing on a large course, I would use the outer hole for more smoothness and control in and out of turns.
For a comparison:
My slalom car was a highly modified C1 with a C4 / Z51 suspension and Rack & Pinion at 13:1 (Steering wheel 2 turns lock to lock)...of course this was a power steering car...
But like a go cart through the course.
Rear holes = strong arm steering...
Front holes = Super strong arm steering
If you are going to slalom the car, the fast turn is what you want, but it will be a bear to turn at super slow speed.
If you are road racing on a large course, I would use the outer hole for more smoothness and control in and out of turns.
For a comparison:
My slalom car was a highly modified C1 with a C4 / Z51 suspension and Rack & Pinion at 13:1 (Steering wheel 2 turns lock to lock)...of course this was a power steering car...
But like a go cart through the course.
It comes down to the speed of the vehicles intended operation. Slow speed and up to maybe 70 mph highway you would want the low number ratio.
Bump steer - this put me midway between the two ratios
Steering wheel - the large diameter of the stock wheel gives you some leverage in parking lots, but that's all it's good for
Borgeson - OCB has the stock manual setup. I believe, but Borgeson improves the ratio
Fat sticky tires - a lot of rubber to drag around at slow speeds
When I ran manual steering on my C2....I used the fast ratio along with a smaller steering wheel. Loved it.
JIM
Thanks Jim,
I’m replacing the original 15” steering wheel for a 14”.
How did you love it?
Was it more or less responsive at highway speed and was it manageable at slower speed?
I’ll be mostly using my car for highway and some twisting mountain roads.
Thanks!
Thanks gkull!
So if I’m primarily using it for mountain twisty roads and highway speeds, would you recommend the fast, 17:1 or standard 20:1 ratio?
Personally, I would use the rear hole and put in a little more caster...
Dial in the shocks somewhere between 60/40 and 70/30?
Easy enough change...Just drop it in one hole or the other and test it yourself...
Bump steer - this put me midway between the two ratios
Steering wheel - the large diameter of the stock wheel gives you some leverage in parking lots, but that's all it's good for
Borgeson - OCB has the stock manual setup. I believe, but Borgeson improves the ratio
Fat sticky tires - a lot of rubber to drag around at slow speeds
Thanks Ignatz,
I don’t plan running anything wider than the 245/60/15’s currently on the car.
I will be going to 17” wheels with better tires but nothing wider.
I do have all the oem manual steering equipment and don’t plan adding a Borgeson box.
Van Steel makes a nice bump steer kit designed to reduce it, but when I called them they actually discouraged me from purchasing it for a car used primarily on the street.
Thanks Ignatz,
I don’t plan running anything wider than the 245/60/15’s currently on the car.
I will be going to 17” wheels with better tires but nothing wider.
I do have all the oem manual steering equipment and don’t plan adding a Borgeson box.
Van Steel makes a nice bump steer kit designed to reduce it, but when I called them they actually discouraged me from purchasing it for a car used primarily on the street.
Except for the Borgeson, all of these things can be easily tweaked to your satisfaction. Drive it, enjoy it and change out what you don't like.
Thanks Jim,
I’m replacing the original 15” steering wheel for a 14”.
How did you love it?
Was it more or less responsive at highway speed and was it manageable at slower speed?
I’ll be mostly using my car for highway and some twisting mountain roads.
Thanks!
I used one of the leather wrapped "fatter" ones. Just had a much better grip...plus it was flatter. I like to drive with my arms extended...can't stand the wheel in my face. C2's allow you to move the column position the column in different positions (bolted down...not moveable in use)....so mine is all the way forward plus I actually shortened my column to move it even further out.
Later...when I started going faster on the track and was wearing racing pants/jackets etc...I installed a "D" shaped wheel to give more leg room. I've now got a Borgeson setup and it drives great and I still use the fast ratio holes with it too.
I’m just using a round 14” steering wheel.
I don’t need to worry about racing jackets and pants.
But, If I want to look really cool getting out of my car at a cars and coffee get together, now that’s something to think about! LOL.😆
I’m just using a round 14” steering wheel.
I don’t need to worry about racing jackets and pants.
But, If I want to look really cool getting out of my car at a cars and coffee get together, now that’s something to think about! LOL.😆
I put in a fast ratio power steering box in a '72 Buick GS and the steering became too twitchy at highway speeds. Ended up changing the box back to the standard variable ratio box.
I put in a fast ratio power steering box in a '72 Buick GS and the steering became too twitchy at highway speeds. Ended up changing the box back to the standard variable ratio box.
455?
Many years ago I had a 72 Buick GS with a 455, silver blue with a black vinyl top.
I put a set of dual quads, cam, headers etc on it, all under the hood with the oem wheels.
It was a sleeper, because everyone knew Buicks were what your grandparents drove.
I wish I still had it today!
Last edited by OldCarBum; Dec 22, 2023 at 06:41 PM.