4 Speed Install
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 248
Likes: 11
4 Speed Install
I have my L-82 engine out after a rebuild and a new clutch. It is sitting on plywood on the garage floor at the present time. I was planning to put the 4 speed on a hydraulic jack and hoping to manuver it in place.
Is there a better way to do this or first install the engine and the mate the 4 speed. The drive shaft is already out.
Is there a better way to do this or first install the engine and the mate the 4 speed. The drive shaft is already out.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
No, mate the tranny & the engine and then put them in at one time. Would be easier with a removable cross-member, don't why they designed 2 different styles.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,907
Likes: 4,480
From: Virginia
What year car? If 80-82, or an automatic to manual swap, you can remove the transmission crossmember.
This Speedway engine stand is really helpful to get stuff off your floor.
Without casters
With casters (for storage, for example)
This Speedway engine stand is really helpful to get stuff off your floor.
Without casters
With casters (for storage, for example)
Last edited by Bikespace; Dec 21, 2023 at 10:04 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,151
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Dropping that engine in and getting the mainshaft to line up perfectly with the pilot bushing could be a real nightmare.
You could pull the trans as far back into the tunnel as you possibly can. With bellhousing, clutch, shifter, shifter bracket, reverse switch wiring and speedo cable removed. Drop in engine and assemble as you would when installing a trans.
Or, as above, drop in with trans and clutch assembled.
Depending on your equipment and space one method may be better than the other.
You could pull the trans as far back into the tunnel as you possibly can. With bellhousing, clutch, shifter, shifter bracket, reverse switch wiring and speedo cable removed. Drop in engine and assemble as you would when installing a trans.
Or, as above, drop in with trans and clutch assembled.
Depending on your equipment and space one method may be better than the other.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 248
Likes: 11
I took (2) pieces of 1/2" althread and screwed them into the bell housing and secured them with a flat washer and nut so they were tight and riged. I then slid the 4 speed tranny on to the althread and with a little trial and error I was able to push the trans with in a couple of inches.. Then I screwed in the mounting bolts about half in..
I then backed out the althread and dropped the nuts and washers. Then I was able to push the trans all the way in, tightened up the (4) bolts and it was done. This took me maybe 30 minutes and I thought I would be there all day. I got this idea from a former post when someone who was on his back trying to install the 4 Speed into the bell housing and clutch. Now all I have to do is slide the engine/trans assembly into the vette. This will be another challenging task but I will get it done.
I then backed out the althread and dropped the nuts and washers. Then I was able to push the trans all the way in, tightened up the (4) bolts and it was done. This took me maybe 30 minutes and I thought I would be there all day. I got this idea from a former post when someone who was on his back trying to install the 4 Speed into the bell housing and clutch. Now all I have to do is slide the engine/trans assembly into the vette. This will be another challenging task but I will get it done.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,095
Likes: 4,023
From: New Braunfels Texas
If you absolutely must do it separately.....the only way is to use a cut off piece of input shaft from a Muncie or T-10...whatever you have.....which simulates the exact center position of your setup installed....the "clutch tool" given in some kits will just **** you off....has too much play.
I am contemplating pulling my 406 soon and I think I am going to separate the two as the engine can come straight up and out........this way the shifter, clutch rods, everything can stay on the car.....but I lost my piece of input shaft
With engine and trans togtehr you have to go in at a hell of an angle to get the tailshaft under the tunnel.....not hit the floor....and clear the balancer, then jack up the tailshaft to clear the non-removable crossmember......I take the hood off either way......if I have the room, I will do it together....but lately I have had a lot of projects taking up a bay in my small shop.....
It slides together pretty easy with the input shaft tool.....
Pros and Cons
Jebby
I am contemplating pulling my 406 soon and I think I am going to separate the two as the engine can come straight up and out........this way the shifter, clutch rods, everything can stay on the car.....but I lost my piece of input shaft
With engine and trans togtehr you have to go in at a hell of an angle to get the tailshaft under the tunnel.....not hit the floor....and clear the balancer, then jack up the tailshaft to clear the non-removable crossmember......I take the hood off either way......if I have the room, I will do it together....but lately I have had a lot of projects taking up a bay in my small shop.....It slides together pretty easy with the input shaft tool.....
Pros and Cons
Jebby
Racer
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 316
Likes: 72
From: Bala Cynwyd PA
I also used the input shaft from another transmission. I had purchased a temporary t10, while I removed the Muncie to rebuild it. Once I had it apart, I used the Muncie input shaft to align the pilot bearing. No cutting. Next time I will NOT push in the clutch when the transmission is out. I believe that's what caused it to shift in the first place. I've read that once the input shaft is slightly inserted, you can have a helper slowly depress the clutch to help it slide in all the way.
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