Parts I have 2101 Intake, Rpm 195 64CC 202 heads

What I need is What

Rocker arms
Headers
What Carb should I run, I want to keep the A/C will a new carb need anything special?
What did everyone do when they ripped out the smog pump (i.e. what did you do with all the vacuum lines?)

@Jebbysan any more input

 

More knowledgeable people will chime in. This is just my ideas and questions.

Rocker arms any full roller will work. Get the right set depending if you are using guide plates or not. Also check for proper push rod length once the heads are on.
Headers you didnt say if you want side pipe headers or headers going to a full length exhaust..
Carb just get the original one rebuilt. It can be set up for your mods.
If you are getting headers there should be nothing to plug from the smog pump hookup.

Questions
Are you using the original block? rebuild? just a top end rebuild?
Getting a new cam or using the original?

 

Full length headers. There is going to be a lot less vacuum connection because of the smog removal (at least that is what i thought)
Its just a top end rebuild on the org L-82 Block with 60k on the clock

 

Your changing your intake manifold so that alone will change vacuum lines.
you will need the large vacuum line that comes off the intake manifold that goes through a filter and check valve at the rear of your intake manifold that supply's vacuum for your headlights and HVAC. You will need the large vacuum line from the base of the carb to the power brake booster if you have power brakes. (Don't even know what year your car is).
you will need large vacuum line from base of carb to PCV valve. You will need small vacuum line from manifold vacuum source, (low on carb) to your distributor vacuum advance. That's it. Everything else gets a plug. Now if you want hot air flappers in stock air cleaners to work or vacuum to a charcoal canister for fuel tank vent. These things are extra.

 

As per rocker arms. With a stock cam you won't find any real gains in power with roller rockers. The tiny bit of friction they reduce really doesn't show up on a dyno as more power. Now if your looking at changing ratio. Well that might help a tad.

 

A lot of what you’re asking is going to be opinion based.
So why not, I’ll give my opinions.
I’m a big fan of summit racing brand ceramic coated headers. Fit great, great quality, cheaper than name brand. If you don’t have a mini starter, highly recommend it. Most headers require it.
what carb should you run?
I prefer Holley. 750DP would be my recommendation. I also like proform. They make good carbs.
A/C should not be an issue provided the carb is tuned right and you are running sufficient timing at idle/with vac adv

 

I use the roller tip Comp Magnum rockers in these applications because they are stronger than stock, don't flex, and they are a true 1.52 ratio......stamped GM rockers can be anywhere from 1.4 to 1.5......I also use short poly-locs on these for ease of adjustment.
You also need to check pushrod length.......which requires an adjustable pushrod tool and a light tension spring......there are plenty of tutorials to do this online so I am not going to elaborate here.

Whatever headers you get....make sure they are ceramic coated......

Jebby

 

Put a new timing chain on it. If it has the original cam advance it 4 degrees. Chevy ground that cam with zero advance.. 1.6 rockers work well with that cam too.

 

would 1.6 be better?

 

that was in the works the rear main is leaking and i am pulling the motor so all new seals and a fresh paint job on the block

 

You want to use ARP black exhaust studs with 5/16th nuts. You don't really want intakes or heads that have the exhaust cross over. but if you do you want to install intaked gaskets with the block off in place. Pushrod guides should never touch the pushrods. So move them around and get the best clearance and if you need too grind material of the inside of the guide slot. You actually need hardened pushrods. The guides are only there to protect you when your valve train is out into harmonics and uncontrolled spring surging. running a rev limiter is a good thing. I started out with 1 5/8ths Headman headers and three inch exhaust from the collectors back with 3 inch in and out mufflers. You are trying to achive the least amount of back pressure. I also have an "H" pipe

I started with a new L-82 1979. I took off all the emissions and installed a K&N air filter. I went with heads and a cam with 1.6 roller tips and they touched the cast finned l-82 valve cover oil drip tabs. So I snapped them all off. You need vacuum for the head lights, power brakes, ignition advance, PVC, and the dash controls. I had an air pump and all the crap to get rid of.

I went to a single plane to fit my head port sizes. With a stock type cam 600 or 650 double pumper is all you need or a 750 cfm with annular boosters. You don't need a choke. Don't buy some cheap 4 barrel. You are never going to be happy with it. run some kind of fuel log and a 1/2 inch 4 hole thermal wooden carb spacer. I used to get gas boiling in my carb bowls in the summer when ever I parked. I've been chokeless for a long time and yes I have driven my Vette when it was zero out and a blizzard.

 

thank you I am hoping to pull the motor this weekend and get started