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I am trying to rem0ve the idel arm from the relay rod but having no luck. I rented a ball joint removal tool thinking it would be an easy process but there is no room for it to enter into to the top. There is a what looks like a thin spring washer of some type that fits between the the relay rod and the idler fitting.so I tried hitting the castle nut hoping to break the connection , also used lots of PB Blaster no luck. I will be replacing the tie rod ball joints again because I didn't know the left and right threaded joints had to be in the correct order....so much for winging it. So how do I get the idel arm disconnected. Any help would be appreciated
THANKS!!
I am trying to rem0ve the idel arm from the relay rod but having no luck. I rented a ball joint removal tool thinking it would be an easy process but there is no room for it to enter into to the top. There is a what looks like a thin spring washer of some type that fits between the the relay rod and the idler fitting.so I tried hitting the castle nut hoping to break the connection , also used lots of PB Blaster no luck. I will be replacing the tie rod ball joints again because I didn't know the left and right threaded joints had to be in the correct order....so much for winging it. So how do I get the idel arm disconnected. Any help would be appreciated
THANKS!!
try a pickle fork, hammer it in place then hit the castle nut, repeat if necessary or get a tie rod puller, they're a little smaller then ball joint puller
I found that a pickle fork on an air hammer worked out quickly and easily. Applying heat to the parts and then adding the lubricant will help break loose the parts. Harbor Freight has a kit for removing truck ball joints and it has a variety of tools to assist in removing the parts.
I used this separator tool for all my front suspension and steering.
Just remove the castle nut and put it back on upside down, just enough to protect the threads of the idler arm.
Install the tool and turn the bolt assembly.
I would put a little pressure on the bolt and walk away, come back and add a little more pressure to the bolt.
After a couple times, I would walk away and hear the joints pop.
No hammering, nothing.
When you replace the idler arm, make sure you get a good made in the USA Moog and it comes with the new plastic washer and rubber seal washer.
My new Moog did not include the plastic washer, but I was able to purchase one from Corvette Central.
It came in a kit with the rubber washer.
Before you install the new arm, compare it with the old unit side-by-side.
I recall a thread on here last year about a top of the line brand arm that was slightly at the wrong angle to the steering link.
Average Joe would not have even noticed. It caused interference issues because it was not correct.
I replaced my Idle arm with an aftermarket one. It when in with no problems but I did notice the casring was larger and I had a thick rubber washer about 1/4" in width.
What are some of the problems with these after market idel arms. I can always remore it with a Moog now that the engine is out of the car.
The Moog brand are probably the best made and best quality idler arms, tie rod ends and ball joints.
Just make sure you get the ones made in the USA as their cheaper line are made in Mexico and a couple other countries.
The thick rubber washer is a must have and you want to install the new one.
The parts catalog calls out for a thin flat plastic sealing washer that is installed with the thick rubber washer to help seal the grease in the idler arm.
As I stated above, they are available as a kit from Corvette Central, which is the only Corvette vendor I found that sells the thin plastic seal washer.
Moog is likely the best.
But some other brands did strike the headers (if installed) during a full-tight turn.
Some had wrong angles.
Some did NOT have any grease fittings.
Some had two.
And yrs ago a poster said that on the bracket to the frame, the bolt holes did not line-up.
But, who knows, maybe arm wasn't for a Vette anyway?
Before you install the new arm, compare it with the old unit side-by-side.
I recall a thread on here last year about a top of the line brand arm that was slightly at the wrong angle to the steering link.
Average Joe would not have even noticed. It caused interference issues because it was not correct.
There is a difference between the manual and power steering idler arms. Make sure you have the right one.
Idel Arm Removal
