hello all, its been a while since I've installed a complete dash setup so i'm asking
what the correct order will be..in a non airconditioned 68 convertible

complete bare dash.
no dash support installed
no dashpad installed
no drivers side or passenger instrument pads installed
no center gauge setup installed.

all are ready to put in now..
wiring harness is in place
vacuum lines are in place
heater box is in place..

what should the order be to install?

thank you, and I hope the question made sense

 

Ive replaced the dash on my 68 before but not the top dash. I can get the front on with the top and brace installed. I start at the drivers side dash with all gauges and swithces, the center shift console without the plate , then the center gauge console. THe hard part is getting the passenger side installed last. If the top dash bolts are loose its easier but I dont know how you would be able to get to them to tighten afterward. Having steering column out and the seats removed makes it a lot more comfortable to do

 

I am in the middle of this project on my 76. I've done alot of work on several vettes and this interior reinstall is by far the most frustrating. My center gauge is broken in two and its still hard to get in. I put the top dash in first and then worked left to right with the steering column and seats out. If I had to do it over I would have tried with the top dash going in last. (I did try it with the center console in first but couldn't get the gauge cluster in). I'm thinking that way I could make sure the wire routing was correct and all the gauge and bulb connections remained intact and then drop the top dash on the installed dash pads. There is very limited access with the wiring harness and vent system in the way. Getting thre center console up far enough with dash pads and top dash in place even loosely bolted in to get the screws in proved difficult. I give the chevy engineers an F for their design. I walked away from it a number of times and that would be the biggest advice I would give. Don't force things too much especially the gauge cluster which snaps easily. Walk away when its going wrong and do it again. Took three tries in and out to get the driver dash pad in correctly. Good luck.

 

Thank you both..
im remembering the last one I did a number of years ago on a 69 ttop....i had someone help hold while I adjusted..

the seats are out. column is in...i'll try just dropping the column first, if that doesnt help enough, i'll remove it..

wish me luck LOL

 

I have done this work on my 1968 C3 and it was not too bad. Label and record wires was the most important thing. Otherwise just take your time and if you need to get a assembly manual and see what they do in what order,

Having the seat out will make your life a bit easier. Do you have the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for this year of Corvette? How about the Assembly Instruction Manual (A.I.M.) ? They are priceless at times working on a older Corvette. The FSM is the only way I recommend to people as the aftermarket repair books are not as accurate as the FSM's are. The A.I.M is a manual that shows haw all the pieces fit together at the factory assembling these cars, again it is very handy to have around.

Take your time and you will figure it out. Be thankful that you have a 1968 but be very careful to have the battery disconnected when you start. The 1968 is one of the less complicated Corvettes and there is less emissions junk all over the car.

 

Hey Scott, do you do this work for hire??? I need to take my speedo out and fix the odometer.

 

hi ctmcloskey
yes on both aim and service manual
neither gives guidance on the assembly order of the dash components.

yes battery disconnected,
i have lengthened the wiring to the speedo/tach clusters.

 

Here’s my two cents. If you are talking about the OEM Top Dash then using a heating pad to soften it up before removal and reinstalling is paramount. If you have one of the restoration top dash parts, they are very flexible, no problem bending it.

 

If I was out visiting my friends I would help you remove your dash for sure

 

I would just welcome meeting you in person some time!!

 

When I get back out that way I will let you know.....We can get a Lone Star Burrito if they are still open....Or Red Iguana...

 

You're on my friend!!

 

Well, how did it go?

Will be one of my next things to tackle.

Knowing I now also have the vintage air ducts to deal with will take all the pointers I can get.

Would love to have details on how the harness tucks in on the drivers side as that seems to cause some issues with fitment. Different arrangement than the later C3’s.

 

The Vintage Air ducts can really take the fun out of dash installation on a C3 Corvette.

 

you say that as if it’s fun even without them. Ha ha.

 

Well, try number one went......fair.........installing the speedo/tach dash......fit, but, seemed now quite right at the bottom.
so I pulled it back out....I had lengthened all of the wiring to help, but still hard to it in past the top dash pad and lowered column.
seat is out, center instrument cluster is hanging forward out of the way on a thick towel.

so my plan, after a beer and a good nights sleep is to remove the column..which I didn't want to do, ..oh well.
and try again...the cables for the drivers side vent seem to be right in the way and I don't see in the AIM where
that cable routes..so any advise there would be great..
i'm thankful there's no AC

 

Great Advice here and above!

I do the same as Rescue for my 68 and others and if out, put in the upper dash pad first of all. Windshield out is a plus if the opportunity presents itself. Steering column and seats out for sure. As above, install left to right.
So in summary, with column and seats out, and oh, with battery disconnected.......
1. upper dash pad
2 driver lower dash pad
3 shifter console
4 center gauge bezel with mystery nuts at the bottom left off
5. passenger lower pad
6 parking brake console with the mystery bolt in behind thru rear compartment
7 column back in, then seats, kick panels sills

My friends and I put C3 dashs in for fun on Sunday afternoon! Just kidding, this is a PITA job made easier after the tenth time, Ha Ha!
BTW, I find the most challenging is to get the driver lower dash to seat in place and all the wires pushed back, as it is easy to pop off a dash bulb socket. And getting the parking brake console to slide into position and the 4 side screws lined up is also usually a challenge for me too.
As we all know the center gauge bezel is apt to break at the joint. I have landed on cutting a piece of thin steel sheet metal shaped to fit at the joint and supergluing it to the bezel on the outside on both sides. Not very noticeable when complete.

Hope this helps.

Cables for the air vents, I can not remember if over the column or under? I tie wrap to column if they want to hang down.

For the Vintage Air plastic air duct under the column, I have flattened some with a hair dryer to get more clearance and for others have bought some more AC hose duct to replace (which is a little more forgiving to bend and flatten).

 

Since posting this I have removed my top dash and upon install I did not bolt it back in. It is snug enough that it doesnt need the extra hardware and once the dash pads are installed it isnt going anywhere. Makes getting the pads in easier

 

I am new to the site and new to C3 ownership. Having just upgraded to power steering and power brakes I am having trouble replacing the speedo and tach instrument cluster panel. When I got it back in I noticed that the steering column collars weren't lining up as they should. The instrument panel seems to be resting too heavily on the column or the bottom of that panel needs to sit back (towards the front of the car) a bit to relieve the pressure on the steering column and line everything up better. Is there any way to tell where the bottom of the drivers side instrument panel is supposed to sit? The only mounting screws are on the top and sides...Thanks in advance

 

The panel sits on the center console and the kick panel on the drivers side. If the bottom cant go in far enough its usually the wiring harness hitting the back of the tach and speedo. Easiest way to try and see behind there is remove the front seat and lat on your back on the floor. Its one of the gardest things to get right.