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I regret not putting studs, but also with the Hedman headers, it took me the better part of a day to modify and fit the ARP header bolts, especially on cyl #5, it curves too tightly right at the bolt.
I made some wrenches for tightening them, but in your case with the body off you can practically have a dance party in there.
I have the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads.
They are advertised as having stock exhaust port location.
If the exhaust ports were raised, it would probably eliminate all the clearance issues I’m having.
Perhaps Hotrod427 Jim can advise - seen to recall from conversations years ago that he used 'off the shelf' underfloor headers (can't recall which brand, perhaps Supercomp 2 1/8"?) but his cylinder heads had 'raised' exhaust ports - perhaps surprisingly he didn't seem to have have fitment issues?
Before everyone gets carried away with header studs. We are only talking about 25 ft lbs or so of torque.
The same torque specs as what the Intake bolts get, going into that same aluminum head. (but w/o the stress of the exhaust weight)
A drawback of header studs is you have to have the clearance room past the stud to remove the header. Not always an option.
I use Set Screws instead of Studs. Yes you can get Set Screws as long as 3". So the difference is that they can be installed with a Hex Key. So the difficult ones that need to be installed after the Header is still loose and sloppy can be done much easier. Since my fabricated Turbo Manifolds have very little clearance between the Set Screw and the Pipe I use long ones. I then machine a round bar into a D shape that is used as a spacer. The Nuts are then installed, and normal tools can be used to tighten them.
The issue of dropping gaskets in or out with studs can be solved by clipping out the bolt holes to the lower edge of the gasket. You can then slip the gasket in or out from the top with the header just loose.
Some factory exhaust gaskets are like that, even with bolts, to make things easier to assemble.