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Im pulling out my 383 stroker and dropping in an LS6. I currently have a TKO500 5 speed tranny that I plan to keep for the LS6. I had the factory clutch with the 383 but Id like to go hydraulic since Im pulling it anyway.
My clutch and pressure plate are probably good because they only have about 1000 miles on them since they were new when I did the 383 stroker last year but I wont know until I pull it all out.
Are there any recommendations on a good hydraulic clutch?
I bought the clutch for my LS6 swap from SST, along with my TKX. It's a McLeod Super Street Pro, with a hydraulic clutch. SST also makes a really nice LS bellhousing.
Why do you want to go hydraulic?
A McLeod Super Street Pro with a well adjusted linkage is a sweet setup.......I was taught to powershift at age 15 on the C2 Vette linkage which is similar........nothing like the feel of a mechanical linkage.......
The McLeod is also one of the only clutches that release properly with a Vette linkage.......and it is positive without being heavy......great action.
I second the McLeod Super Street Pro with the stock Z-bar linkage. You certainly can go hydraulic if you want, but the pedal effort and feel with this clutch and the stock linkage is excellent. Not heavy at all.
2. The Z bar takes up space that makes it difficult to get to spark plugs and such because I am running side pipes and will run side pipes on the LS
3. The hydraulic is a more modern and usually desirable set up….I believe
You probably won't ever have to change spark plugs on an LS. As to 'while I'm in there', with the conversion to hydraulic you still need a master cylinder on the firewall and I believe you will have to get under the dash somehow. The mechanical throw will never leak and I've seen complaints about hydraulics here and elsewhere.
The modest downside on the LS/mechanical linkage is you need an adapter plate, which, as long as there are still sources for that, was no big deal. And I had to break the welds on the z-bar and move it to a better location with the cast iron exhaust. With side exhaust, you'll have limited suppliers but I think there are some that allow access to the mounting point. That could drive your decision.
With the SpeedDirect heim jointed linkage you have a smooth and adjustable feel to the clutch, whatever clutch supplier you choose. No screaming and cursing under the dash.
Finally there is no free lunch with hydraulics that somehow magically gives you a lighter pedal. You still have to compress the pressure plate fingers whatever the mechanism.
My two cents. I have no regrets and won't ever have to worry about where that red liquid on the garage floor is coming from.
@ignatz has posted some other great photos on this site that might help.
I hope to keep the Z-bar in my 80 (LM7 swap). One major consideration that may drive the hydraulic solution is the exhaust clearance. A Z-Bar may not work with many LS exhaust headers and manifolds.
FYI IIRC Igantz (above) has an LS with mechanical clutch linkage.
I have had the OEM GM hydraulic clutch lines blow (melt) on my 2008 3 times now.
Major PITA to fix. $2000 worth of PITA. It almost made me junk the car.
IMHO the hydraulic clutches allow more compact packaging than a Z-Bar. That is why they are used.
Easier for the factory to assemble. They use push-connects. Period.
And on my 2008 those lines were way too close to hot exhaust pipes and cat convertors anyway.
The C3 was designed from square one with an effective clutch linkage.
Leverage is leverage, it will not be a lighter pedal. Old wives tale.
It it ain't broke, why fix it?
The grass is always greener on the other side.....
You are never talking me into switching away from mechanical!
I have had the OEM GM hydraulic clutch lines blow (melt) on my 2008 3 times now.
Major PITA to fix. $2000 worth of PITA. It almost made me junk the car.
Thanks for the endorsement. Had a C6 myself with a hydraulic clutch. Many is the time I had to go in with a bulb baster and clean out old dirty fluid and put in fresh fluid meant specifically for the clutch hydraulics. It was a losing proposition because without a complete flush at the dealer, you were simply diluting any contamination.
And in one instance my clutch completely collapsed due I think to some sort of self adjusting mechanism built in to the design. Luckily it happened in my garage and I physically pulled the pedal back up and all was fine. Otherwise the car would have been on a flat bed back to the dealer as undriveable. Forgot completely about all that hassle, thanks.
We have hydraulic clutch activation on some models of Harley's. They did it on all touring models for a couple years. Major pain in the butt for us mechanics.
owners complained enough they went back to cables.
No difference in effort. Ya still gotta compress the same spring. With hydraulics they are self adjusting. Meaning you can't adjust it the way you want it!
And flushing the system is a pain in the butt!
Hhhhmmm I really expected this thread to tell me I had to get hydraulic and it would be such a huge improvement now I may save my money and just stick with the Z bar. One of the bug reasons I did not think about was the heat from the engine and exhaust affecting the hoses and fluid.
I'm quite certain that the LS7 manifolds I have for the LS6 won't clear, so hydraulic it is for my wife's car. The BBE under-car LS headers will clear, but please do confirm that if you order the sidepipe headers.