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Hello, im in the process of buying a 82 corvette - was in long term dry storage garage for 20 yrs. 35K miles
Never been started in that time......brakes are locked up as i understand -
What would your do to unlock the brakes and prepare it for starting.
Would you rebuild the brakes calipers or buy new.....other things?
I would focus on the e brake potential for being stuck. The calipers should break free i would think?
clean gas, fresh plugs, oil change.. fresh battery..
a tremendous amount of inspections for vermin wiring, rusty fluids etc..plugs..
obviously when brakes free..fluid new hoses, leak repair..
I've been a professional mechanic for 50 years. That said. THE WORST THING FOR ANY MACHINE IS SITTING UNUSED!
I would much rather find the same car with over 100K miles and well maintained than this one.
I've seen it so many times over the years. The new owner saying, but it's only done Blah, Blah, Blah miles!
Absolutely everything on this vehicle is going to need to be gone through.
As per new calipers or rebuild? I'd have to pull them apart first and inspect. Your brake lines? The rubber flexible brake lines are certainly junk. Surface rust on bearings won't show its ugly head until you start putting miles on it. Rust on valves and cylinder walls will show up pretty quickly.
And please tell me all fuel was drained and system cleaned before storage.
This car sounds like a HUGE project.
Best of luck. I'm certain it will be worth it in the end.
Just want to add, I went the EBL route and very glad I did. What @Buccaneer has come up with is really amazing. It really is plug and play. With the new diagnostic powers I was able to find intermittent problems I didn't even know I had. I just thought the exhaust stink or bad MPG was normal.
As part of my career we impounded many abandoned vehicles from the street and private properties.
Many had been abandoned for years and the brakes were locked up.
The tow truck drivers would simply drag the vehicles on the asphalt for a little bit until the drums or rotors broke free and the wheels would roll.
Sometimes they would drag them a couple of feet other times it was longer.
Post some pictures, we all love pictures
The 82 CE I purchased a few years ago had been sitting for more than 5 years. The process to get it running when I got it home was first pulling all the plugs and putting 1-2 ounces of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole then let it sit overnight. I had a cheater bar on my 1/2' drive breaker bar on the crank bolt and got the motor to turn (relief) then turned my attention to draining and cleaning the fuel tank, replacing fuel pump/filter, blowing out all fuel lines, rebuilding the CFI adding Buccaneer's fuel pressure gauge set-up. Because of the amount of corrosion in the fuse block I removed every fuse and cleaned all the connections. Changed the oil, added fresh gas and POW...it started with new spark plugs. I drove the car briefly before selling and buying a 4-spd car.
I agree with panther about prepping to crank this engine. 20 yrs is a long time. Age and dry cylinders break piston rings.
I would also pull the valve covers. Watch the valvetrain while turning the engine over with breaker bar.
If just one of the sixteen valves refuses to close, it will be the kiss of death to the piston.
Also, consider purchasing an oil pump primer tool for < $25. Those will need a H.D corded drill to operate.
As far as the brakes, you could put all four corners on jackstands, wheels off.
Pop the lid off the master cyl and place a towel under it.
Sometimes a pair of "C" clamps will force the pad / piston back into the caliper.
But, likely will still need complete DOT3 flush, seals, pads.
Good reminder by HeadsU.P. with oil pump priming the engine. I did this as well, forgot to mention. I pulled the distributor and used the tool for oil pump shaft on a drill to spin the oil pump with valve covers off I watched for oil to flow.
brake pads probably rusted to the rotors after sitting all those years and the dry storage doesn't seem like it was very dry if they are rusted stuck. I agree on it probably still needs everything just based on the brakes being stuck makes it sound like it wasn't stored very good
Bleeding the brakes to be sure the brake system is holding pressure before I drove the car on public streets. The Emergency brake is important so rebuild it with the Stainless parts versus the original steel.
Drain the existing oil and put in fresh motor oil. Then get a Oil Pump Priming Tool and be sure to get oil pressure for a couple minutesbeforecranking the engine.
Don't put too much oil in the cylinders or it will foul the spark plugs when you crank the engine, ask me how I know this....
I’m going though one of those same color outside but your color interior is mint. Take your time and get it running. I still have to paint. Yours is mint. You look like your weatherstripping is in great shape to so no work there unless I’m wrong and you spring a leak.Your car was definitely not left outside. No sun fade. She’ll polish up nice.