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I've been having issues with random missing on my 71 with a cheap Amazon distributor. I feel like the cheap dizzy is my karma. Anyone else have this issue or should I keep looking for another source. Thanks in advance.
Note:
I pulled plug wires off each cylinder one at a time, some make very little difference but others make a noticeable misfire. (as I would expect) Week spark?? Module? Thanks again
There are far better places to buy a new distributor other than Amazon.
Many things that happen to engines are frequently blamed on the ignition systems.There s a company called Davis Unified Ignition (D.U.I.) and they make the very best distributor you can get. They get some information about your engine and then they set the new timing curve and ship it to you. They are in Tennessee so shipping is fast. In your shoes I would be on the phone with them.
Go through your distributor, coil, rotor and every inch of the spark plug wires. Old wires and such will not help any engine. A great test is to open the hood of your car on a dark night and the start the engine and get out and take a look. Bad wires will make a nice Tesla show. I am going to make my own spark plug wires before I pay another $150 for a name brand set
The newer distributors frequently have a Hall Effect sensor in them and those don't fail very often in my world. I have a MSD Billet Pro Distributor on my 427 and it never misses a beat. Your distributor sounds like it might be an HEI unit, Right? There are so many coil packs that go inside them to work with specific applications. My 1988 C4 has a 5 pin module and there are 7 pin and other numbers of pins. Be sure that you are using the right one.
A lot of people clean off the gunk under the old control unit and slap the new unit in place with no heat transfer cream. Some units might last a week or more, most don't. It is critical to USE the heat transfer goop under the new controller but not on the pins.
If you are still having issues after you go through the engine it might be time to do a Good Compression test or even better a leak down test as it is a better test.
There are far better places to buy a new distributor other than Amazon.
Many things that happen to engines are frequently blamed on the ignition systems.There s a company called Davis Unified Ignition (D.U.I.) and they make the very best distributor you can get. They get some information about your engine and then they set the new timing curve and ship it to you. They are in Tennessee so shipping is fast. In your shoes I would be on the phone with them.
Go through your distributor, coil, rotor and every inch of the spark plug wires. Old wires and such will not help any engine. A great test is to open the hood of your car on a dark night and the start the engine and get out and take a look. Bad wires will make a nice Tesla show. I am going to make my own spark plug wires before I pay another $150 for a name brand set
The newer distributors frequently have a Hall Effect sensor in them and those don't fail very often in my world. I have a MSD Billet Pro Distributor on my 427 and it never misses a beat. Your distributor sounds like it might be an HEI unit, Right? There are so many coil packs that go inside them to work with specific applications. My 1988 C4 has a 5 pin module and there are 7 pin and other numbers of pins. Be sure that you are using the right one.
A lot of people clean off the gunk under the old control unit and slap the new unit in place with no heat transfer cream. Some units might last a week or more, most don't. It is critical to USE the heat transfer goop under the new controller but not on the pins.
If you are still having issues after you go through the engine it might be time to do a Good Compression test or even better a leak down test as it is a better test.
Are you sure about that? I ordered one of their HEIs for my 87 about 3 years ago. The distributor shaft looked like it was fabricated from a hammer and chisel. The unit was dead in the water. I sent it back and bought an MSD
I also had a DUI distributor....that after about 5000 miles the advance mechanism locked up. I sent it back to DUI, they rebuilt it,.....put it back on the car. And the advance mechanism locked up a second time. Off it came, and I bought an MSD Pro Billet. I have no idea why this happenned, but it did.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Every product has its issues, one time or another. I run a DUI and have been running it for a while now in my 82 and runs flawlessly, but maybe mine is the exception. I was having an issue with my original 42 year old dizzy and replaced it. I don't have a vacuum advance of my DUI, so maybe that is an issue with those?
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Originally Posted by Bubbity
I've been having issues with random missing on my 71 with a cheap Amazon distributor. I feel like the cheap dizzy is my karma. Anyone else have this issue or should I keep looking for another source. Thanks in advance.
Note:
I pulled plug wires off each cylinder one at a time, some make very little difference but others make a noticeable misfire. (as I would expect) Week spark?? Module? Thanks again
My HEI missing issue (mostly off of idle) was due to the previous owner miswiring the HEI power connection to the R terminal of the starter. I connected it to the main fuse block IGN spade lug and issues resolved.
Last edited by Redvette2; Apr 17, 2024 at 11:15 AM.
Amazon is a fine place to buy a distributor. This 93440806 is what was in my 79, along with another $50- worth of parts to make it work not quite as well as a D.U.I. distributor.
Bonkers price, though. Try eBay with that part number.
Your distributor sounds like it might be an HEI unit, Right? There are so many coil packs that go inside them to work with specific applications. My 1988 C4 has a 5 pin module and there are 7 pin and other numbers of pins. Be sure that you are using the right one.
A lot of people clean off the gunk under the old control unit and slap the new unit in place with no heat transfer cream. Some units might last a week or more, most don't. It is critical to USE the heat transfer goop under the new controller but not on the pins.
If you are still having issues after you go through the engine it might be time to do a Good Compression test or even better a leak down test as it is a better test.
You mention HEI, coil packs, and control units. Are you referring to the module? I have been blowing them left and right on an O'Reilly H.E.I. distributor, I even went as far as finding some N.O.S. GM modules, same problem. I got so I could change them in the dark. I always used the heat transfer cream. I pulled the HEI and stuck in an old Accell dual-point.
At the risk of jinxing myself, I’ll provide a counterpoint: I’ve got about 4,000 miles on a $56.00 eBay sourced (brand new) H.E.I. distributor with tach drive. Probably China made, I dunno. (KMJ Performance??). I did, however, take about 30 minutes before installing it to tweak the rotor contact so it just missed all the cap contacts while spinning. It was pretty far away before I did that.
To throw salt on the wound, I paired it with a $26 (!) set of extra long plug wires so I could run them underneath the headers, fully expecting the whole shebang to give me fits.
Darn if it didn’t fool me and has been running true for thousands of miles. <shrug>
Thanks for all help I really appreciate it.
I found a couple vacuum issues (vacuum relay) and intake was a bit loose. Getting those tightened up has helped quite a bit. So yeah it may not be a great distributor but its not completely at fault. After hearing some of the experiences others have had with higher priced units I'm going to make sure the one i settle on is a good product so I'm not second guessing myself later.
PS That's a great tip on the cap and rotor contact clearances. I'll check that out.
You mention HEI, coil packs, and control units. Are you referring to the module? I have been blowing them left and right on an O'Reilly H.E.I. distributor, I even went as far as finding some N.O.S. GM modules, same problem. I got so I could change them in the dark. I always used the heat transfer cream. I pulled the HEI and stuck in an old Accell dual-point.
Run an MSD ignition box or an MSD module on an HEI. The parts store modules are junk.