C3 diff yokes
Scott.
That is the whole point.
I guess you need to actually get your hands dirty and "feel" it.
So, once again I must disagree here, and for the same reasons as pointed out previously. And if these "Pre-Load" springs really were "unnecessary", then why would the manufacturer, as tasked by "real" engineers, who is already being identified as practicing cost cutting measures to a degree beyond good engineering practice, have incorporated them?
Scott.
My differential has been built this way. I’ll find out soon how it works out.
But on the other hand, the Forum does not benefit from personalities exhibiting emotional responses not presenting relevant conversation on the actual topic, but rather chose the desperate attempt of substantiate an opposing position with derogatory statements not of the subject at hand.
Scott.
P.S. B.T.W. I have been getting my hands dirty in this business for decades, daily, and I'm quite familiar with "Corvette" diffs along with a cornucopia of other examples for many other applications and from many other manufactures; so please, lets' not start down the road of the narcissistic behavioral comparisons of who's bigger!


Thanks, I appreciate the self control.
Elmer
The O.E.M. utilized the springs to apply a preload value to the clutch packs opposite each other forcing the gear sets tooth contact from each other thereby creating a clearance sum (measured lash) this providing for lubricant intrusion and a drive load relationship that was applied to the appropriate "drive-face" flanks of the tooth profile, as intended.
With the gear sets "crowded" (never a good idea!) this creates an additional collision force as the gears' teeth swedge together, this rather than a simple ramping up and down of loading on the crowned thrust faces, and imparts a greater force to deflect the teeth, this particularly increasing the stresses at the base of the teeth where they are most often prone to initiate fractures even when properly set up; and then hopefully the top edge of the teeth do not actually impact the root of the opposing gear teeth! But all of which, if only, would lend to far greater wear rates of everything involved and then we have to consider that under "normal" applications particulate contamination, of this type material, of the fluid is probably the greatest offender to the life span of the roller bearings!
Then for consideration, the springs which apply a preload value are a "flexible" load tension device, therefore as compared to the gear crowding process, they maintain a more constant preload value (and apparently a greater sum) on the clutch packs as the unit exhibits wear in service, that's a plus right! And of course, the gear crowding process is a situation were we have a culmination of "solid", supposedly rigid componentry that we are attempting to create a resultant "preload" (spring) value from on the assembly as hole, this is better understood as an "interference" fitment and in such instances something has to give, bend, compress, the sum of all, right? Are any of these items in this train of componentry intended for this?
Yes, please do watch the video! Notice how with the attempt of the acquired "preload" (measured ?) in the resistance of the differential in rotation of the side gears and thereby feeding though the gear sets, there appears to be a "cogging" motion effect (as would be expected), what is flexing to allow the passage in the interference fitment?
And by the way, this idea of crowding the differential gear seats isn't new, it's been practiced "for-ever", and for different reasons.
Scott.
Last edited by PBF777; Apr 23, 2024 at 04:23 PM.
Let's discuss it, but let's just call it clutch pack pre-load, and examine the full range.
Diffs vary from an open diff, to "tuned", to springs in 200#, 400#, 800# increments, and then there are spools.
Let's agree that the open and the tuned are the smoothest.
The heavier spring packs cause an increasing amount of popping and and even hopping noises. I could even feel that while racing.
The spool obviously has the best traction in a straight line, but forces one tire to slide during turns. A lot of hopping at low speeds.
I do not think the preload in a Tom's tuned posi is very stiff. I can rotate it with my hands, but barely. But at a 6" radius.
I believe the standard posi springs (IIRC that is the 400#?) require two strong arms to rotate one tire, and have about an 80-90# torque spec to rotate a tire.
So maybe the tuned posi would take 40 ft-lbs to rotate a tire??
Only the tuned posi and the spool has no "slack" in spider gear engagement, which reduces breakage.
The spiders take the full brunt of the engines TQ, at all times, and if they have to move .130" first, and then impact under full power, that is a lot of shock load.
All of the clutch pack pre-load variations should lock-up the same once there is high engine torque on the pinion gear.
So the difference in clutch pack pre-load occurs when the torque provided by the pre-load is greater than the load from the pinion gear.
Engine TQ can approach 5000 ft-lbs at the tires. If 50% of that turns into side-force / clutch pack loading, that can get very high.
So the initial pre-load of 80# at the tire, is very low, vs the 2500# max, less than 4% of max.
It is only going to take 8# of engine TQ to make 80# at the tires due to the gear ratios.
The pre-load supplied by the spiders would surpass the spring pack pre-load after that.
So with a tuned posi you gain: (1) zero slack in spider gears (2) smooth turning at all times and (3) less clutch pack pre-load at very light throttle.
Does anyone see a driving situation at light throttle where acting a little more like an open diff is a problem?
Has anyone ever had to go to the 800# spring packs? And what did that help?
Let's discuss it, but let's just call it clutch pack pre-load, and examine the full range.
Diffs vary from an open diff, to "tuned", to springs in 200#, 400#, 800# increments, and then there are spools.
Let's agree that the open and the tuned are the smoothest.
The heavier spring packs cause an increasing amount of popping and and even hopping noises.
The spool obviously has the best traction in a straight line, but forces one tire to slide during turns.
I believe the standard posi springs (IIRC that is the 400#?) require two strong arms to rotate one tire, and have about an 80-90# torque spec to rotate a tire.
So maybe the tuned posi would take 40 ft-lbs to rotate a tire??
And yes, as has been stated previously, the "tuned" springless effort will generally yield less as the process of attempting to create a side-loading value by crowding the gear sets has it's limits!
The spiders take the full brunt of the engines TQ, at all times, and if they have to move .130" first, and then impact under full power, that is a lot of shock load.
But perhaps (?) your .130" clearance sum might just have been an indication that your example could maybe have benefited from a "tune-up", back to something akin to "as-new" specifications, maybe?
So the difference in clutch pack pre-load occurs when the torque provided by the pre-load is greater than the load from the pinion gear.
The pre-load supplied by the spiders would surpass the spring pack pre-load after that.
But, also I don't think one would find that the measured rotational torque sum at the pinion shaft equates directly into a rotational load effort at the pinion to side gear relationship, as don't forget, the operation of an indirect gear set in the load path requires effort and parasitic losses are inevitably experienced, not to mention we'll need to apply enough torque to break a tire lose before any of this matters, so if it's easier for the vehicle to just roll forward then that's what happens; if that were not so then how would the car with an "open" differential and any power ever move?
And yes, as stated previously the resultant thrust loading, a byproduct of the bevel gear relationship in operation, is understood to at some point provide a sum greater than that of the preload springs; but, remember that this system was not necessarily engineered for dragstrip or other racing endeavors but rather as for instances of traction loss due to environmental surroundings and in these instances often the sum of engine torque required to spin a tire might not be so great! And in the myriad of possibilities here this gets back to my previous statements that the system is engineered as a hand-off, initially the preload springs provide a resistance in the differential function, but not so much as to unnerve the driver in low speed and load maneuvering, and this which in itself raises the threshold before one tire might break-loose, this increasing the possible torque input being applied to the system from the engine and then if all works as planned the hand-off to the increased loading from the bevel gears takes over.
But, with the lesser initial preload provided otherwise ("tuned" springless) the separation in the hand-off becomes greater, and the potential for one tire to get away is greater, and then as stated previously after that...............it's all over!
(2) & (3) If this is your goal, just reduce the spring load!
Scott.
Last edited by PBF777; Apr 24, 2024 at 04:31 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I'm not a mechanical engineer by title or trade
<snip>
So, (1) "zero slack", sounds good but as stated previously crashing the gear sets is not the proper as engineered execution and does incur bad functional results, even if your not aware of such. At least not yet!
(2) & (3) If this is your goal, just reduce the spring load!
Scott.
So what are these bad results?
Good luck,
Scott.
I am not about to engage in any conversation with the long winded technical rationale that is being posted, but I have great confidence in the decades of builds these two guys above have produced,....AND further supported by Leigh's comments, who also has years of racing and old car knowledge, as well as a very rational scientific mind, and has proven it over years on this forum. That is good enough for me, without me spending hours and days studying differential designs to become an expert.
Its fine to have some discussion ....given this is a forum,....but for those reading this and trying to decide right from wrong about C3 Corvette differentials.....I suggest you be careful who you choose to believe. That's my contribution to this thread.
For me,....I will take the decades of experience from two seperate differential builders, with nothing but documented recommendations as being the best over many years.....versus anyone else, and certainly some guy on a forum nobody knows professing these two guys have been all wrong.
As for the lecture on the forum and allowing discuss and conversation......nobody is stopping it. In fact....here we are doing it. But it is also true when posts are made with completely opposite opinions,....we all have to pick one. I know I have. In fact, I have a differential built by Gary, going into my77......with a tuned posi......should I sell it or get it rebuilt properly? I sure don't want to suffer the consequences of an improperly built differential.
Last edited by Shovels and Vettes; Apr 24, 2024 at 05:25 PM.
Also realize that I'm not soliciting for any business, jobs, favors, trades, or anything of benefit, other than just sharing information that 'might' prove beneficial others in the hobby. If what you read you might disagree with, that's fine, ignore my statements if it makes you feel better, or you can logically engage in the conversation with your own thoughts, observations, conclusions or further inquiry (not that I might have an answer, but perhaps someone else will), that might be relevent and in this manor the Forum works as it should; heck even I might even learn something! .
Otherwise, we're just back to the ol' "who's bigger" routine...........Sad.
Scott.





Myself, I wouldn't even begin to question Gary's opinions on how these should be built. Particularly in a performance application.
In fact, I would be asking him questions and taking notes! And following his advice to the T.
Still hasn't answered my one question.
Where can I purchase a quality diff yoke?
I actually need one!
Also realize that I'm not soliciting for any business, jobs, favors, trades, or anything of benefit, other than just sharing information that 'might' prove beneficial others in the hobby. If what you read you might disagree with, that's fine, ignore my statements if it makes you feel better, or you can logically engage in the conversation with your own thoughts, observations, conclusions or further inquiry (not that I might have an answer, but perhaps someone else will), that might be relevent and in this manor the Forum works as it should; heck even I might even learn something! .
Otherwise, we're just back to the ol' "who's bigger" routine...........Sad.
Scott.
This is my last post on this thread. Not interested in debating it further.




I also think the repeated retreating to issues of personality and civility makes this thread liable to end up in a conflict situation pretty soon, so I’m going to call it now.
If the OP or the participants want to start another thread and resume the debate, if you believe there would be any value in it, then start another thread when the temperature lessens a bit. Thanks.







