Posi setups
Both are 10 bolt, which all 63-79 corvette posi's and open diff's were.
Both are running 10/17 spiders, one NOS Eaton 12 bolt -30 spline net forged and the other original Eaton 10/17 x17 cut spiders.
The 30-spline set up requires several machining steps to complete. The 17 spline is a stock set up, still I do some machine mods to them.
Both are Tuned, meaning- no lash, no binding, no axle endplay, no chattering, they are balanced between the sides, and yes, they operate in posi action.
The 30 spline posi and parts will be cryo treated, the 17 that is not required by the application.
They will perform better than a production built posi. Both use solid steels only- no fiber or snowflakes. All three clutch types are sold today, even though some are weaker than others.
They take hours to correctly build compared to 15 minutes building a stock spring loaded setup.
I have literally built 100's of these, most likely more than anyone else's other than Tom's, but since they stopped building posi's 15 years ago maybe I am close now. It doesn't matter.
This is not a "how to" thread, nor will I go into great detail on it. For those that care to debate, I have no interest so please don't bother to respond since I will just ignore you.
For those that want to try to do this, go for it but know this. If you don't correctly build the posi, then it will not be balanced and it will either not function as a posi or you will bind the spiders and break them.
Jeff M.
When tuning a posi, the correct way, many times I have to grind shims to size. The 30-spline ended up, pre-CYRO, at 032" and 0335" The shims come in 005 increments. Is there is difference between using shims within 001-002" = yes.
Last edited by GTR1999; Apr 24, 2024 at 09:41 AM.
Had to look up cryo treating. Do you do this yourself? Once cold, how is it brought back (controlled) to room temperature?
Appreaciate the sharing of your machining wisdowm with us.
Fran
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Had to look up cryo treating. Do you do this yourself? Once cold, how is it brought back (controlled) to room temperature?
Appreaciate the sharing of your machining wisdowm with us.
Fran
I did your box 6 years ago already, time flew by.
Cryo treating has been around a long time and it is not limited to the automotive market- same as REM polishing wasn't a process started for automotive.
I do not do the treatment. As with heat treating, I use those pros who do it every day. It is a 3-day process- 24 slow freeze to -300*F, 24-hour soak at that temp, 24-hour slow thaw. Sometimes condensation will flash the metal so I may have to repolish the parts when I get them back, other times no change in appearance.
It did NOT do that prior. So the metalurgy changes, total hardness, or consistency of hardness thruout the posi caused that. It was very clear and sharp, one musical note, like a medium "C" or "F", meaning one frequency and one natural harmonic vibration level. The original must have had multiple harmonics, due to inconsistencies in the microscopic grain structure, or metalurgy, so they cancelled each other out and you could not hear the "ring". That is exactly the type of changes that cryo is famous for, removing inconsistences, or weak points, in the metal.
I am a musician and I found it very interesting. Trumpet bells have a similar phenomenom. The metalurgy affects the quality of the musical notes. Consistency is the key. And that is what separates a beginners trumpet from a more expensive professional one, the metal itself. And yes they do sound different, "clearer".
And Thank You to Gary for all your assistance to me and this forum!
I could not have done it without you.
Your insights have kept many of these beautiful cars on the road!
Last edited by leigh1322; Apr 24, 2024 at 09:37 AM.
There are some on ebay for sale now in fact.
Popular Hot Rodding, June 1979 | eBay
I did your box 6 years ago already, time flew by.
Cryo treating has been around a long time and it is not limited to the automotive market- same as REM polishing wasn't a process started for automotive.
I do not do the treatment. As with heat treating, I use those pros who do it every day. It is a 3-day process- 24 slow freeze to -300*F, 24-hour soak at that temp, 24-hour slow thaw. Sometimes condensation will flash the metal so I may have to repolish the parts when I get them back, other times no change in appearance.
Fran
There is a new vette 12 bolt build video on YT, I just saw it and saw some things questionable in it. Anyone here part of that video?
The 2nd video is of the 2nd 75 vette. A pizza kid ran a stop sign and took out the white 75.
Many think I also drive my cars like this, but I don't. For me all I like is a summer day or Fall day, away from cars and people, back roads, nothing to prove to anyone.
The point, the spiders never broke, the clutches never worn out, but after 9 years of abuse the 12-bolt pinion broke a tooth. He still has the vette but is running in the 9's with a Mopar these days.
My own 72 with tuned posi only needs to have regular oil changes about 8-10k miles. Driving with a tuned posi doesn't feel any different, in fact it's smoother than a spring setup.
The new fiber clutches don't chatter, but they smudge away at every turn. Also, with the fibers you CAN NOT tune them.
Most of the people who told Pepe, Tom, and me that a posi won't work without a spring pack usually never built one and we always bounce back to the "engineers didn't design it that way" answer. That might be because they don't know how to build one or don't want to put in the time to do it correctly. Some of the conmen out there who took some guys here and elsewhere said they tuned the posi but when the customer posted pictures it was a spring pack setup!! One of those times Tom was still alive, so I shared it with him- he laughed so hard I thought he was going to get sick. So, you can't do anything unless a production engineer from 60 years ago approved it? I will have to remind all the guys with LS engines in their cars that they won't work since one of Zora's guys didn't draw it up. Same for using 31 spline outer axles, correcting runout in rotors, machining steering box parts, etc, etc,etc.
One thing I noticed over the years the debaters on many forums usually don't contribute any of their own material. Interesting that some may have all kinds of engineering and technical advice to offer for someone else, but they never share what they are doing? Why is that? I say this without any one person in mind since I have seen it for over 25 years online now. The one common theme, they like to latch on to something and beat it to dead as long as they have the last word.





,,, I just grin ear to ear when I talk to so-called rear end guys. I never argue, just let them talk. Sadly, most don't want to hear the truth.
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