When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have recently had the Holley Sniper installed and it's still in the learning process. The mechanic did not tie the wires off and they fell against the exhaust frying two wires leading to the brain of this unit. Stopped me in traffic in front of the Texas Motor Speedway, not a bad place to be, but traffic horrible.
Upon inspection at home I noticed the solenoid wire to the starter burnt and a couple of teeth missing from the flywheel.
Could it be that these two very small melted wires, one red and the other yellow which came together, somehow caused the other problems. Could the many time the starter was being engaged and not starting the engine because of the wires burnt maybe not gave enough power to the solenoid and it only partially moved in to the flywheel or didn't retract and thus broke the flywheel teeth.
PowerMaster starter 9100 bench tested works but doesn't spin over hard or fast with 13 volts. I don't know how fast it really needs to spin for a Big Block 427.
Or is the Holley Sniper not providing enough power to the starter because of the wires.
I am lost, I can't start the car to see if the Holley Sniper still works without replacing the starter, and I don't want to loose any more flywheel teeth.
regatta
You need to replace that flywheel....but anyway if you want to check that starter:
You hook up your starter leads all properly and tie them off out of the way. Rotate the engine by hand to where there are some flywheel teeth and then see if the starter works...... this will let you know if it works but as soon as the flywheel lands in a "no -tooth" location the car won't start again...so that would be only for testing the starter. I'd double check everything else that "mechanic" touched too.
MY GUESS:
I'm gonna guess (just a guess) that the starter got a START signal while the car was running and hammered your flywheel..... recognize that I am taking a wild-*** guess here. That's neither here nor there since you have to replace the flywheel anyway.
I would replace the flywheel and the tie off the leads securely out of the way....
Neither a flywheel nor a starter are terribly expensive if you can do the work yourself.....and you really need to find a different mechanic.
regatta
You need to replace that flywheel....but anyway if you want to check that starter:
You hook up your starter leads all properly and tie them off out of the way. Rotate the engine by hand to where there are some flywheel teeth and then see if the starter works...... this will let you know if it works but as soon as the flywheel lands in a "no -tooth" location the car won't start again...so that would be only for testing the starter. I'd double check everything else that "mechanic" touched too.
MY GUESS:
I'm gonna guess (just a guess) that the starter got a START signal while the car was running and hammered your flywheel..... recognize that I am taking a wild-*** guess here. That's neither here nor there since you have to replace the flywheel anyway.
I would replace the flywheel and the tie off the leads securely out of the way....
Neither a flywheel nor a starter are terribly expensive if you can do the work yourself.....and you really need to find a different mechanic.
Put the starter back on with some good teeth of the flywheel. The starter just made an attempt and stopped, each time the starter just made a sound and would not start the engine, as if the engine was frozen. Can't be the case because I turned the engine over with a wrench to get it to the good flywheel teeth.
Not sure how the starter could have got a START signal? Is that like turning the key on while it was being driven?
Yes exactly. If those melted wires are, one a main power wire and two the signal wire to the solenoid. They could have connected together and spun the starter while the engine was running. Just as if you turned the key to the start position with the engine running.
This would have absolutely nothing to do with your sniper system. It has nothing whatsoever to do with your starter. However, spinning the starter with the engine running because of crossed wires could indeed destroy your starter. And damage your flywheel.
I would also like to suggest a new mechanic even if the former is your brother in law or your uncle.
Perhaps learn to do your own work. No one loves your car as much as you do.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
if the sniper system is connected to the coil and the old distributor and wires are still used you need a diode so that the signal at the coil doesnt transfer back to the starter and keep it engaged while the engine is running...no idea how your mechanic wired everything up but if he is leaving wires swinging in the wind then I would guess he did a shitty job installing it. There is so many different ways to go about installing a sniper that it is hard to know what was done. I would install a new starter, leave the coil to cap wire disconnected and turn it over so it cranks, then release the key as if it was running, it the starter stays on then you know it was wired wrong or just needs that diode.When you buy a starter do yourself a favor and get a high torque mini starter that fits your ring gear that is clockable. if you go with a mini starter the diode is mandatory...read the questions and comments on both for information as there is no instructions. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890175 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-600?rrec=true
If you go with the Holley ready to run distributor for the Holley Sniper it negates all of these issues
I installed a PowerMaster mini Torque starter about two years old. I had a new battery, AND everything is Holley from the new fuel tank, sending unit and forward. No point system just Holley or what they recommended for a 68 big block. I wanted to go all the way with Holley so I could have only them for any problems. But I was not expecting this. Can't start it now until I get the new mini torque starter shipped. I am just hopping the Holley Sniper Brain didn't get fried along with the starter $$$$$
I have been using a Gear Drive Mini-Starter for decades and have had great experience with it. My 1968 C3 with it's BB has Never tried to Crank/Start while the engine is already running to my knowledge.
I now have a Holley Stealth Sniper and never had an issue. My ignition system is made up with the following: MSD distributor, MSD 6AL, MSD Coil, MSD Wires. In the software for the Holley Sniper you can retard the timing ONLY while cranking and this "unloads" the starter. This makes cranking a high compression engine much easier
My car came with the Transistorized Ignition if that makes any difference. I simply swapped the parts into the C3 and put the old parts in storage. The MSD spark is hotter than the factory spark. The MSD spark sounds like a welder when firing. Using 12.25-1 compression the engine needed all the spark help I could get.