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So I've been investigating a no spark condition for a little while now. I've learned some things and talked to people. Now I'm down to this.
No spark. Unhooked batt. Put tester to batt wire on distributor. 12 volts? Touched it to block. 12 volts. I've been told time and time again about a ground issue but I can't figure it out to save my life. It cranks but won't start. Some times I get a glimmer of hope and it coughs but not often enough to matter. I've added additional 12 gauge grounds to both sides of the block leading to the frame. Still 12 volts. Brand new plugs, new wires, distributor, ignition switch. Straight wired the distributor batt wire to a radio fuse for turn key power instead of constant. So much research and so little results. The last thing keeping this thing from firing off for the first time in a long time. Yes it's in time.
How did you determine the distributor is correctly installed?
Since the engine cranks there is no ground issue.
Not clear what 12 volts at the block means?
How did you determine the distributor is correctly installed?
NOT my brightest Idea but it has had 3 distributors, the original, one I installed, and one I had installed by a mechanic friend at a shop. I've watched them be installed and watched more than a healthy dose of YouTube tutorials. I was hoping I installed it wrong before we put the newest one in.
What does that mean? What was the red lead of the tester connected to? What was the black lead of the tester connected to?
The mechanic in the shop had no idea?
What does that mean? What was the red lead of the tester connected to? What was the black lead of the tester connected to?
The mechanic in the shop had no idea?
Everyone I've asked can't seem to find a reason why it won't run. The tester I used has a digital volt meter and when you stick it to the block anywhere it reads 12.6 volts. Both of the connections were on the battery pos and neg connections.
It's wild how many Corvette people I've asked, classic car guys at shows, older mechanics, younger guys, car guys, hell even a guy who's built one from the frame up! He even gave me all of his wiring diagrams and books cause he said he'd never do another one again.
I'm just stumped on this, and have been for a couple months now taking breaks in between to try and recollect everything I've been learning about the car.
Everyone I've asked can't seem to find a reason why it won't run. The tester I used has a digital volt meter and when you stick it to the block anywhere it reads 12.6 volts. Both of the connections were on the battery pos and neg connections.
It's wild how many Corvette people I've asked, classic car guys at shows, older mechanics, younger guys, car guys, hell even a guy who's built one from the frame up! He even gave me all of his wiring diagrams and books cause he said he'd never do another one again.
I'm just stumped on this, and have been for a couple months now taking breaks in between to try and recollect everything I've been learning about the car.
I'll try again. You stick it to the block? What are you touching the red lead of the tester to exactly? What are you touching the black lead to exactly? Please just answer those two questions.
Photos help! We might notice something obvious. Something your mechanic buddy missed.
How do you know the timing is correct if it doesn't run? Do you have a timing light? You could use a spark plug, or the timing light will detect firing in the ignition wires.
I'll try again. You stick it to the block? What are you touching the red lead of the tester to exactly? What are you touching the black lead to exactly? Please just answer those two questions.
we are.touching it to the bolts on the valve covers. The black lead is grounded at the battery
Photos help! We might notice something obvious. Something your mechanic buddy missed.
How do you know the timing is correct if it doesn't run? Do you have a timing light? You could use a spark plug, or the timing light will detect firing in the ignition wires.
I do. The distributor gets 12 volts in the on position but it disappears when you start cranking on it. It just drops to 0.
And about the plugs we've used in line testers, touching it close to the frame. I put my finger on it😅. and we've tested them all.
The meter your using looks like a issue. Take a standard run of the mill test light. Clip your ground on the battery, with enough wire to reach the block. Touch the end of the test light to the block. Light come on?. Not likely. Take the ground leed and put it on the positive terminal of the battery. Touch test light to block. Light comes on? Normal.
your testing procedure is confusing everyone.
Take a couple feet of wire. Connect one end to the large terminal on your alternator with all other wires still connected. You now have a hot wire, be careful. Connect the other end to the batt, or positive terminal on your distributor. Crank engine. Does it have spark now?
How is your battery hooked up? Because having 12 volts on the engine block sounds like your negative cable is hooked to the positive terminal of the battery.
No I don't think that's the answer. He does say the starter cranks. So that can't be possible.
Much more likely our friend has very little experience with electronics and how to properly use his meter.
That's why I suggested using a simple test light.
And others suggested getting help from a friend with electrical experience.
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